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It doesn't make sense to not Jack up the control arm. How else are you gonna preload the spring? Is there anyway you could make a video ? Otherwise, I think I'm just gonna sell these coils after completely dissasemblig and reassembling them 6 times to no prevail
 

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2013 White 3.8 GT
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721 Posts
What doesn't make sense is why you are worrying about pre loading the spring when all you are doing is installing a shock. I'm certainly not going to take my car apart to make a video either when this thread hold all the info needed. So, again, why are you trying to pre load the spring when all you need to worry about is the shock?
 

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2013 White 3.8 GT
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721 Posts
Once you do have everything installed, before throwing the wheel back on, then feelvfreebto jack up the control arm so it has all the weight of the car and make sure you have travel on the shock.
 

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What doesn't make sense is why you are worrying about pre loading the spring when all you are doing is installing a shock. I'm certainly not going to take my car apart to make a video either when this thread hold all the info needed. So, again, why are you trying to pre load the spring when all you need to worry about is the shock?
i'm just having trouble understanding your directions. Every other coilover install says to jack up control arm, keep spring captive, jack up further for preload, then adjust shock length. while the rear of the car is jacked up, if the control arms are hanging and you lengthen the shock even further, imagine what happens when you go to lower the car again. The shock will compress until the car rests on the spring, then it will compress a little more once the spring settles. so in theory, aren't you REDUCING shock travel by lowering the control arms and lengthening the shock length? Please correct me if i'm wrong. Or feel free to stop answering since i've been bugging you for quite a while now.
 

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2013 White 3.8 GT
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721 Posts
i'm just having trouble understanding your directions. Every other coilover install says to jack up control arm, keep spring captive, jack up further for preload, then adjust shock length. while the rear of the car is jacked up, if the control arms are hanging and you lengthen the shock even further, imagine what happens when you go to lower the car again. The shock will compress until the car rests on the spring, then it will compress a little more once the spring settles. so in theory, aren't you REDUCING shock travel by lowering the control arms and lengthening the shock length? Please correct me if i'm wrong. Or feel free to stop answering since i've been bugging you for quite a while now.
You're correct for the most part but we aren't trying to adjust the spring or pre load in this case. If you were adjusting ride height and pre load right now then yes, that's the process. I actually put the car on the ground though instead of pushing an unbalanced control arm up to see where it will rest.

Now, like I mentioned, after setting it up you can then jack up the control arm to make sure you have sufficient shock travel once everything is resting as it would when you are driving around. It's on you to judge how much shock travel you will need based on many factors (road conditions where you live, driving style, how low you are rolling, Damper/rebound on the shock,so on) I believe you mentioned sitting close to stock (I may have mixed your post up with someone elses) but if you are sitting close to stock, Continue as I directed and with your better judgement. If you are slammed it's a different story. Just remember, you want your suspension to be able to take a pot hole just as much as you want it to take a bump.

So, install as I mentioned, jack up the control arm to full compression, check to see how much stroke you have remaining on the shock above the bump stop. I would think you should be able to get 2 finger tips on the rod above the bump stop. If not, adjust accordingly. I would also suggest riding full soft on the dampers to start unless you drive crazy a lot or track often. I run 3 clicks from softest in front and 5 in the rear and only because I do a lot of back road/parking lot drifting.

FYI, I don't mind helping the best I can I just don't like repeating myself
 

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I have just bought these to replace my ARK COILOVERS. the ARKS are totally seized and the adjusters are messed. will probably get rebuilt as a spare.

the measurement I took from the ARKS indicate that the driver and passenger sides differ. the distance from the top rubber mount to the 1st hole on the lower bracket are different. is this Normal?

SHOULD I just take the measurements from the ARKS and set up the MSD's the same? also, the rear ARK springs are stiffer than the MSD. would it be a bad thing to leave the ARK springs in place.

car is in pieces on jack stands, engine in pieces and no suspension or brakes. now I am feeling stressed.

ANYone near Barrie that can give me a hand?
 

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Where did you folks purchase your HSD Coilovers. HSD doesn't have them listed specifically for the Genesis Coupe on Their website
 

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Membrah
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390 Posts
From a site vendor, I went through uniqperformance for mine. Btw I'm selling my HSD used lmk of interested
 

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YUP ITS A HYUNDAI
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138 Posts
anyone else have the new 2013+ ones with helper springs?

I noticed that the helper/swift/tender springs are blocked/flatten out when the car is sitting....
guessing these bad boys just help with rebound?
 

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Ride feels more stiff than stock suspension but it may feel like that also cause I'm maxed out on HSDs with the dampening settings set to midway-ish.

It's not exactly a super comfortable ride, don't get coils thinking it's going to feel like 4 door comfort, you're going to feel more things on the road being that much lower.
Did you have springs before? I can feel my wheels going over a pea-sized rock, That's how much I am feeling with the pro-kit. Other day I went on the a path under construction and I felt like I was in a wooden horse wagon. Don't think any coils is worse than that.

I am thinking about going a tiny bit lower than the pro-kit just to be more practical on the road so I won't be maxing out the HSD.
"Felt like I was in a wooden horse wagon."

LMAO!! ?

Sorry to ressurect post (not really) just researching for my first set of coilovers. To me it sounds like the pros of having coilovers don't outweighs the cons lol. Can anyone give me reason why it's worth spending $1000+ on shocks? Like is the improved handling and lowered stance worth feeling all the pebbles on the road? Btw I live in California and the roads are like 18th century cobblestone pathways.
 

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That's the only caveat with this kit...You need to drop the front shock tower to adjust the camber plate, because the hole in the tower is too small to reach the bolts properly.

My plate bolts were relocated also, because with 9.5" +22 rims in the front, I had to put the camber plate all the way inside, or the rim would be rubbing on the spring collar.
Which front shock tower kit did you use? Did you have to use any aftermarket plate bolt relocator or caster? Sorry for the noob questions. I have the same wheel specs and I'm having problems clearing.

Thank you for the help.
 

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Out Pissing Off cops!
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4,572 Posts
Which front shock tower kit did you use? Did you have to use any aftermarket plate bolt relocator or caster? Sorry for the noob questions. I have the same wheel specs and I'm having problems clearing.

Thank you for the help.
Hi, I had a 2010 GT 2.0T, at the time I used HSD's only available Kit, which was a full coilover kit, the plates I'm referring to are the included top plates, which had a slide adjustment for camber. That adjustment was pushed all the way towards the outside of the car, so the springs could clear the tires/rims properly. Mind that i had less than 1/4" clearance afterwards. Tight fit.

Hope this helps.
 
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