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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I've had my Gen 2.0t (2010 A/T, full stock) for just under a year and have been having issues with a CEL (P2261) for the last 10 months or so. Initially took the car to a shop under warranty and they said the BPV and/or solenoid was bad. Well, they were unable to source a new one so ended up replacing the whole turbo and components. They claimed there was some evidence of oil in the turbo (had the head gasket replaced at the same time). However, replacing the turbo and components didn't fix the issue! There is obviously a new OE BPV and solenoid in now so I'm at a loss for why the CEL is still occurring. Mechanic said the boost pressure at the time seemed fine and that it may be an ECU/electrical issue. I am still noticing a loss of power (intermittently) so I am trying this again with a different mechanic who I trust.

Fast forward to today, I have been doing testing on the boost pressure using the Torque app. Boost pressure is normal at ~15 to ~16 PSI until driving on the highway(?) which often triggers CEL (P2261) and then boost pressure drops to about 3-5 PSI. Remains limited at 5 PSI until restarting the engine, then I am seeing normal 15 PSI again until the issue resurfaces, sometimes the same day (especially when highway driving) and sometimes after a couple of days.

Mechanic says its unlikely to be boost leak as I am seeing normal PSI before the issue resurfaces. He suspects it could be another bad solenoid but that seems unlikely... He also speculated that there is some other unknown issue that is triggering the P2261 code and telling the ECU to limit boost pressure. I've done an extensive search on the forums and can't seem to find a solution for this particular problem. I will be bringing my car back to the mechanic on Friday July 3rd and I would love to have some suggestions to bring to him. He is welcoming any input as he hasn't seen an issue quite like this before on a turbo car.

I also have an aftermarket BOV that I haven't installed yet (I bought it thinking it could be a potential fix if the BPV is bad) but he advised against installing it until we uncover the cause of the issue. I also spoke to him about the possibility of bypassing the boost solenoid straight to the IM as that seems to be a fix many other gen owners have used when they have an aftermarket BOV. However, I am wary about bypassing this safety feature in the solenoid without knowing the underlying cause first.

Thanks!
 

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...:)

i actually may have the answer to this- is the power loss occurring only after highway driving on boost?
I.e. constant 90 mph or so ?

Here is your answer
let me knowi if you understand whats happening here and why it is causing your intermittent boost issue:

 

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Hi Pchelka,

Thanks for your response! I'm not 100% sure what is happening in the video - is it a bad solenoid? Or boost leak?

The good news is I seem to have solved the problem - I had a friend look at it and rerouted the vacuum lines to the original positions and replaced the hoses. A few days later replaced the BOV valve and I've had no issues since (about 3 or 4 weeks now).

Let me know your thoughts!
 

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Ok so assuming that you had no vac leak, the stock solenoid in EVERY gen coupe is leaking some (more or less) boost int Vac plenum (vac chamber). This happens on highway drives when you are constantly on some boost.

Since the plenum (vac chamber) is filled up, when ECU needs to open the DV it cant as there is no vacuum operate it. this results in error and 3-5 boost limit. Hyundai used wrong type of - valve notice I'm pushing in 10 + psi and the 'VAC' side of the vale cant handle that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Interesting, that would definitely explain what is happening. I suppose with a louder BOV you would be able to hear if it is not being actuated by the vacuum line.

Do you use an aftermarket solenoid on your gen?
 

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No in my case I'm all stock, but the same issue happen to me on longer highway drive. Surprisingly there was no engine check light. Just the over boost condition and WG boost pressure of max 6 psi. Its basically just a bad design - depending on how strong is the spring in the solenoid you may have this issue more pronounced or less pronounced but it is there.

Solution is to add an on/of solenoid between dv solenoid and vacuum chamber
 

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Best to bypass the solenoid and see if the issue goes away. And there is vacuum when you are under boost as long as the internal vacuum tank and check valve are good.
 

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Hi Pchelka,

Thanks for your response! I'm not 100% sure what is happening in the video - is it a bad solenoid? Or boost leak?

The good news is I seem to have solved the problem - I had a friend look at it and rerouted the vacuum lines to the original positions and replaced the hoses. A few days later replaced the BOV valve and I've had no issues since (about 3 or 4 weeks now).

Let me know your thoughts!
Could you post a picture of how he rerouted the vacuum lines?
 

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The green and white valve is a check valve for the vacuum tank.
but from which side ?

  • is this valve between the solenoid and vacuum chamber ?
  • is it between the vacuum chamber and the Intake manifold
If the latter then, you will loose vacuum due to weak solenoid spring that allows boost to creep into vacuum chamber.
 

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The valve is between the intake and the tank. Whenever the intake has vacuum greater than what is in the tank, the valve opens and equalizes vacuum in the tank.
 

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ok and i"m talking about pressure creep into vacuum tank from a different route

- DV solenoid leaks pressure into the vacuum tank as per the video.
This causes over boost condition in longer ON boost situations - had that happens to me, and i think was also the case here

Reason - no vacuum in vacuum tank and cannot operate DV
 
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