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Hi I currently own a 2011 genesis 2.0 and don't know if I'll lose power by putting in a short ram intake. My main concern is that it will be sucking in all the engine heat, If you can let me know what y'all think, thanks.
 

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A short ram air intake won't make you lose power, if anything you'll gain a few hp and torque... not much only like 7-14hp depending on the intake. Usually they come with a heat shield that will prevent the hot air from the engine. It's not much but its a good mod if you want some preformance and good sound
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A short ram air intake won't make you lose power, if anything you'll gain a few hp and torque... not much only like 7-14hp depending on the intake. Usually they come with a heat shield that will prevent the hot air from the engine. It's not much but its a good mod if you want some preformance and good sound

Sweet thank you ! Yeah I am more than likely going to get the K&N typhoon air and take.
 

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Your instincts are good. The reasoning too. Short answer, NO.

Save your money.

The only proven whp increase is the true cold air intake made by 3.8 performance.
Some of the guys on here have done some interesting things with stock air box mods, you'll have to look it up though.
 

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What Gaijinn said.
SRI even with heat shields is going to introduce significantly more hot air into the the intake, retard timeing, and reduce power. Either go with a true CAI or keep/modify the stock airbox.
 

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Chaege Air temperature is very crucial in turbo application. Air intake restriction with OEM turbo is negligible, while air temp has affect on your timing and kair density.

In short all intakes on the market available for bk2 2.0 will lose power at city traffi, stop and go, while will have between non to very negligible gains highways speeds (if has heatshied) .
Without heat shield - co stant garbage.

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Here is the truth,

AEM, K&N, etc.... make decent products. "Their" testing might truly show a 5-15 net whp gain or so over the oem setup. But consider that their "testing" is pristine conditions, with the hood open, probably with 3 giant fans blaring away......

Thats a far cry from your heat-soaked car in traffic, with the hood shut, and the AC on. LOL.
 

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You can dyno same turbo car multiple without making changes and have variation of 10 hp.
There are independent duno comparison of aftermarket intakes gaining no power on turbo car. There also testing at drag stip of aftermarket intakes making cars slower due to raised temperatures (this particular case study was done on multiple twin turbo 3.5 SHO).

Cars programmes therse days to achieve x amount of torque at given rpm, boost varied baced on air density to get that power, slither resistance in the intake has no affect in power because turbo will force air tru it untill it reaches a programmed value of power.

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Here is the truth,

AEM, K&N, etc.... make decent products. "Their" testing might truly show a 5-15 net whp gain or so over the oem setup. But consider that their "testing" is pristine conditions, with the hood open, probably with 3 giant fans blaring away......

Thats a far cry from your heat-soaked car in traffic, with the hood shut, and the AC on. LOL.
All the black plastic in the intake trac sitting on top of the radiator soaking up heat and holding it in. IMHO a short ram is an improvement to get rid of that stuff.
 

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All the black plastic in the intake trac sitting on top of the radiator soaking up heat and holding it in. IMHO a short ram is an improvement to get rid of that stuff.
The easiest way to remedy that would be to cloak the oem intake piping in DEI gold tape. Really ,really dont want to suck in closed hood engine bay air which is almost always over 90 F. Summer time were talking 125 and higher.

**Youre right about the oem 3.8 intake track,....its bad.
OP,.........just buy and install a 3.8 CAI. Best you can get.
 

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The first thing then is how hot are the intake temps before it's changed. Unfortunaly with the lame OE IAC sensor the real data is cloaked because slow reponse.....
 

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I still have the original sensors, and they show my ambient and below ambient just fine. As far as speed, the only way for my intake temps to rise is that period when you have been driving, and shut off the car with no air movement.

You'll do your shopping or whatever, come back start it up. Intake will show like 90-or 100. As soon as yu start moving, mine just drops right down to ambient. minute or so tops. Fast enough where I dont really care to replace them.
 

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The first thing then is how hot are the intake temps before it's changed. Unfortunaly with the lame OE IAC sensor the real data is cloaked because slow reponse.....
Dustin already posted datalogs of OEM and OEM modified with heat reflection.
No matter how you going to cut it, OEM is always better with temps than SRI, and intercooler will never drop temp to anywhere close to ambient.

This what you see in turbo car:
I have found out that my air charge temp before my intercooler is around 127 degrees C, and after is around 65 degrees. (Ambient air temp around 19 degrees).

If the charge air would be close to ambient (20c), then post intercooler temp would be 35-40 C.

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Yeah, I know you can make power with a short ram, but if you're a drag guy, or a zero-to-whatever guy, no, you're not increasing the net. All you get out of a short ram is nice noise, and a teensy bit of throttle response. At idle, as stated above, you have crazy retard dumping power. At high speed, you've lost the tiny bit of ram air effect that the stock box gives... If you're after power, the shorty is not the way to go. In any meaningful instance, a short ram will lose power.
 

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Budzi are you a 2.0 T Whats with the Celsius ?

Mother of goodness those temps are hot as balls. Do you not have real hood vents ?

My Tkits intake was modified to take a velocity stak, it gets full high pressure air from my fog light vent which is real. No engine or radiator anything.
-Goes through my turbo compressor wheel
-To my intercooler
-straight up to my intake,(hits oem intake sensor), This is where it is ambient or one degree (F) below.
-To the TB/plenum
Of course all my piping is DEI treated. The TB/Plenum have the heat/cool conductive coating..

***Can you just imagine the temps I will see when I purge the intercooler (externally)with nitrous, I'm using a oblong oval sprayer which will cover dam near the entire thing.
I'm predicting in the 30's even on a 80 plus degree day.
 

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I have 3.8.
I gave example using celcius, as it was posted at another thread - someone else's issue after going to SRI.
I do have twin turbo 3.5 EcoBoost and monitoring temps -outside / airbox/ prior to intercooler / post inter cooler.
Normaly, post inter cooler temp are 18deg F higher then outside temp.
Car takes air from the front of the radiator , OEM intake.
Anyone with SHO did before and after dragstrip run (OEM intake vs SRI with heatshied) ran slower numbers at the drag strip.

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