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Discussion Starter #1
hello again guys, sorry for asking a lot here but my gen keeps being plagued by electrical issues lately. basically, i've installed a brand new alternator and a new battery - successfully removed the battery light sign on the dash. a week later, every morning my car gets harder and harder to start. it cranks, but waaaay to slow. today is the first time it failed to turn over on the first crank. but it did afterwards. the issue is persistent only during it's daily morning cold start - no trouble all day. i'm trying to find a list of items i need to check first before ruling the starter as the culprit:

1. new alternator last week - works fine no issues
2. new battery last month - was drained, i ran my car with a faulty alternator going home. but was recharged
3. might just check the battery connection and reattach - but everything looks good to me
3. new 150A fuse on the fusebox
4. my spark plugs hasnt been replaced since 2017 but my mechanic said they were still fine last march
5. i've recently changed my fuel to a higher octane one since last month - highly unlikely a cause
6. need change oil?
7. probably just morning moist in the engine and i should be fine with it?


i'm ruling out the starter first, just coz it's unlikely that i've had a faulty alternator AND a faulty starter all at the same time. this car has been reliable in the past and it's the first time it's acting up like this. again, my bad for asking but you guys are helpful!
 

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First I would keep the battery on a charger overnight and see if it still does it in the next morning.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Did you check your sleep / stand by current draw ?
This sounds like a parasitic current loos thus battery gets drained.

Just take a multi meter and check your power consumption when car is on stand by / parked.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did a cold start today, surprisingly my car started with no trouble and right away. All I did was:

1. Turned of the AC the night before, just so there wouldnt be alot of load on the next start
2. Before cranking the engine, I pressed the start button twice, I believe the fuel pump or relay gets activated by this. Wait for about 15 sec, turned it off then did it again. Started like new afterwards.

Maybe the pump is busted, but is there any way to check apart from the fuse? I've been using a 30+ day old gas btw since my car had problems for a month. Perhaps gas degradation is real lol.
 

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OK... first when you have this problem is it cranking fast but does not start or is is't struggling to crank ?
the description you gave made it look like slow craning and that is electrical issue / starter issue

The description you gave now is suggesting that it cranks ok just doesn't fire right away and that looks like no fuel pressure (or spark).

- Get a multi-meter search for parasitic current drop
- Get fuel pressure sensor connected to fuel rail park the car over night with pressure sensor plugged in. Check what is the pressure morning before turning anything on

Also read through service manual you will find where and how to connect pressure test sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #7
for the past few days it gives me a long crank on a cold start, first assumed that it's another electrical issue. was actually betting on a parasitic drop and wanted to test battery and voltage like you guys said, just didn't have my multimeter to check this morning.

yes, it started right away today. after i did all the things i said before starting it. thanks man!
 

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for the past few days it gives me a long crank on a cold start, first assumed that it's another electrical issue. was actually betting on a parasitic drop and wanted to test battery and voltage like you guys said, just didn't have my multimeter to check this morning.

yes, it started right away today. after i did all the things i said before starting it. thanks man!
Still you didn't specify were the cranking rpm low / slow or normal when it cranked for long time.
 

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Gas doesn't degrade in the tank.

The AC will not be on when trying to crank or when the engine in not running.

To test fuel pressure you have to buy an adapter to put inline between the fuel line coming from the tank to the fuel line going to the fuel rail.

And yes pushing the button a couple of times first will charge up the fuel pressure if it has bled off.
 

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gasoline degrades in that it eventually evaporates through the evap system, and the non volatile parts of gasoline settle and basically turns into lacquer
wouldn't worry about it unless it's been sitting for over a year, or if the tank was left with less than a 1/4 tank, then maybe 6 months.

edit: I put 60 months before instead of 6 months lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@Pchelka it's within the normal range i would say. though once the engine starts after the long crank, rpm kind of go a bit low and car shakes a bit but never actually stalls. usually lasts after 1-2 secs after starting the engine. it's fine after that..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yes, had gassed up today anyway. will check on another cold start if it's the pressure or the parasitic drop..

thanks big time!
 

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@Pchelka it's within the normal range i would say. though once the engine starts after the long crank, rpm kind of go a bit low and car shakes a bit but never actually stalls. usually lasts after 1-2 secs after starting the engine. it's fine after that..
Dirty throttle body?

I store my car every winter for 5 months outside and don't have any issues other than I have to charge the battery once a month or disconnect it.

Snow today so the winter beater comes out. :(
 

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I think what you are describing has to do with the intake manifold. If it’s starting rough when cold them is fine after you have run it that’s the issue. I thought my push button was sticking but it was crap buildup on the intake flap. I cleaned it and it’s been perfect ever since. I now have catch cams installed to prevent this . I’m now at 175k miles
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the problem went away after doing that pre-starting routine. should be good news but does this mean it might go worse until i get no start at all (e.g. fully dead fuel pump?)

i should be fine until my next oil change where i'll have everything checked and cleaned ( intake manifold and throttle body etc)..
 

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Look if the pre-starting routine involves priming the fuel pump couple of times...
as the old Hindu saying "do the needfull" and test the line for pressure drop...

Then pull out your fuel assembly and simply fix it.
You guys relay have it easy with parts availability in USA and fairly cheap so don't see the reason why not get it fixed
 

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I assume the alternator was replace because of a dying battery, that was tested good.

The car doesn't like being drained to dead. It likes having the power cut abruptly.

What I mean is, my theory is that on a drain, some parts of the computers shuts off before other.
For me, this caused a lot of weird issues when I went to start it.

I would suggest, you disconnect the battery then charge it, connect it for like 30 minutes, then disconnect it, and connect it again, just to make sure the computers are reset.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
seems to be working perfectly the entire week. yea if it's the computer, might ask my mechanic if any readings come up on my next oil change this week.
 
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