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Discussion Starter #22
It will be be quicker 0-60 because it weighs less. The R-spec has a more stripped interior basically. R-spec is what people get when they actually plan on racing it vs a daily driver. It's basically a stripped down version but still has all of the racing important stuff like Brembo's, stabilizer bars, suspension tweak etc. Still will not handle like the S2K but better than the Ultimate due to slightly less weight. What you lose however is the heated seats, navigation, fog lights, HID head lights. Basically you lose the more expensive looking car. what you gain is the very easy ability to replace the aging head unit with something modern with apple car play and such. Plus you go do a tablet swap which is really cool. Basically put a double din apple car play unit down low and a tablet up top that monitors performance from the OBDII port. Less class more fast (rice) = R (racing)-spec. I think the r-spec comes with 18" wheels vs 19" wheels too which is better for auto crossing
I guess my next question is what can I do to an ultimate to make it handle like a R-Spec, aside from taking stuff out of it? Can I upgrade the sway bars, shocks, etc to get it to R-Spec levels and still stay in stock autox class?
 

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2013 Track new off the lot. I have had 1 problem. Drivers seat stopped forward or back. Fixed under warranty. Only have 12.9k miles. No leaks or squeaks or chit that makes u nuts. As I read these threads I realize I'm in a good place. First car 389 3 duces GTO. Had a 454 vette. Before I bought this I ran a 93 Z28. I really like this car. I stripped all the Hyundai logos and slanted h's and replaced with "GT'. aka my initials. I put new Borlas on and I was sold. The ECU was sent to CSR and brought along a grin....Though I would prefer forced induction I settled on Injen. I have an Ark downpipe, short shifter and a meagan racing brace. The car is rockectshipgrinurassoffkindof thing. I know there is more to do but I hate the"CEL" light flashing. I'm only 76 yrs old but I, well u know.
 

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Hello, first post here. I'm going to look at a BK2 (2014) tomorrow at a dealership (not Hyundai) and I'm wondering what should I keep an eye out for? Reading some of the pages here and watching a few vids, I take it I should be concerned about water leaks, the 6 speed (5 to 6 grind), timing chain, drive shaft guibo bushings, what else? The car I'm going to look at has about 55k miles on it.

Thanks.
I have a 2013 and you might want to check the nav screen responding to finger touch. Don't know how common it, the difficulty responding is but it is sure annoying, but easy to check, & i'll bet expensive to repair/replace . If its any consolation, i just have not had any trouble from mine-not a lot of miles but 7 years old !
 

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The handling difference between the Ultimate and the R-Spec is really only the weight diff. what is odd is that the internet says both cars weigh 3,503 lbs. Fake news. R-spec is lighter.
The R-spec also has no moonroof, no leather, no rear spoiler and let's face it, the coupe is ugly without a spoiler. To be honest a better driver can outrun someone in an ultimate when racing against the r-spec. what i am trying to say is the difference is negligible I would get that ultimate you looked at.
 

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The ultimate has all the "go fast" goodies of the Rspec, IE Brembos, 19" wheels, track tuned (stiffer) suspention, Torsen LSD, plus leather heated, power (drivers only) seats, H.I.D. headlamps, 300 watt Infinity stereo/G.P.S., L.E.D. DRL's, sunroof, and rear spoiler, 2014 and up Rspec gets bigger bolsters (cooler looking) seats with red stitching on the seats, steering wheel, and arm rests. The coupe is a great car, but its kinda heavy for a track weapon in whatever trim level you get. Since theres no more new coups out there, id go with the best kept, lowest mileage, newest, example i could find regardless of trim level then modify it to your personal needs or taste. Almost anything either the ultimate or Rspec comes with could be sourced through the aftermarket, often with better than stock parts.
 
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