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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is my walkthrough of the doing the manual swap on the Genesis Coupe, works for both the first gen and second gen... there is some minor differences in parts and location wise. I did this on a 2013 Bk2 2.0 Push start Auto.
Hopefully this helps out a lot of you guys who are currently thinking or doing the swap yourself
I did this myself with a help of couple of buddies and did as much research as i did and figure out some stuff along the way.

Questions you might have
1. Is it worth it?
Yes for both performance and to tell your friends your manual
2. How much is it to do it? Ill give a price break down
3. What about the ECU? you can run on the auto but eventually get it flash or tune
4. Can i have a shop do it? Yes and no, depending on the shop how much they are willing to charge... or won't even touch it.
5. Can i do this in my driveway? Yes I started on the lift, then ended up in the driveway.
6. Is the coolerworx shifter needed? Makes the install easier for the shifter area
7. Don't you need a manual ECU and Manual Wiring harness? nope, can be done using the auto
8. Can you do this with a push start? Yes you can, i did with mines and it works
9. Don't you need to swap the Diff.? if your on a budget then you don't have too, but i would swap it out for a lsd with a lower ratio (im doing 65mph at 2.9k rpm)
10. Why not buy a manual from the start? why are you here if your just gunna say that, just buy a manual one so you don't end up having to do this

Thoughts on doing the swap, It is pretty simple if you ever done or touched a transmission before.
I would say 1 out of 5 difficultly(1 being easy/5 being hard) would be a
1 considering you know what to look for, touch, and the process... having a lift makes it super easy
3-4 if you have never done a swap before(like me, it would be easier if you have a buddy who can help you or knows how to do it also)

Price Break down
How much I paided to do this whole swap.
Full Bk2 Transmission Swap - $1500 (got it off ebay Used)(comes with tranny, driveshaft, shift linkage, both pedals, master cylinder, clutch itself, bolts themselves)
Purchases Off from Gencoupestore, Considering Tim has great prices and super helpful
Valeo HD OE Clutch - $299 (I ordered the stainless clutch line and new slave cylinder)[assuming your DMF is resurfaceable]
Valeo HD Clutch w/DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) - $740 (considering you get the line and slave with your order)
Resurface DMF - $100-250 (depending on your shop, most shops won't do DMF cause they don't have equipment to do it or they just lazy and don't wanna bother with the hassle)
New flywheel bolts - $20-50 (cheaper if you go OEM bolts from dealer, ARP has them for $45+ and they are much stronger)
Tools - $0-XXXX the more tools you have access to the less you spend, but if your newbie and have a small amount tools its fine just better start borrowing)
Shifter Assembly - $0-700 (depending if you wanna stay OEM, short shifter, or go all out and get a racing shifter[i went with coolerworx cause it made the install easier])

Transmission - $200-600 (depending on the year, mileage)
Driveshaft - $100-300 (the auto driveshaft is a tad bit shorter)
Clutch Kit - $500-1300 (Gencoupstore has a Clutch Combo for the Genny for a great price, Comp Clutch with everything you need $900-1000)
Transmission Fluid REDLINE - $50-80 (a gallon is more than enough to flush and fill)
Manual Wire Harness - $150-300 (good luck with this unless you find someone parting or ebay is selling one)
Manual ECU - $100-300 (if your key you can get another one as a back up)
Megan Transmission Mount - $60-100 (easier to do since it out already, plus your old one is probably shot)
Reflash/ Tune the ECU - $250-XXXX (SFR has a reflash for cheap or your using the same auto ECU and don't feel like buying a new one)
Misc Parts - $0-XXX (your gunna run into issue on small stupid stuff like bolts stripping or annoying stuff.)

You can do this yourself to save tons of money, plus you can do a pretty good job.
Cutting and welding the Tunnel of the car.

Part 1. Prep the swap
Start off getting the car in the air, If you have access to a lift this job can be done in 2 days fastest

Inspect your parts and check if they are good to use(if you are planning on reusing the DMF get it resurface, get a new pilot bearing)

Drain your fluids

Take off the bottom parts such as Heat shields, the downpipe, cat.

Remove the Damper from the subframe.

Next take off Driveshaft, put the car in neutral and have the e-brake down so the driveshaft can spin.

Start to disconnect all the connectors, lines, wires from the tranny.

Take off the starter.

Now have a transmission jack or a floor jack, and secure it.

Take off the bolts that mounts the block and tranny together. (there is a total of 10)

Once you drop the tranny the torque convertor is exposed and separated from the auto transmission ( it will be dripping fluid so catch it with a pan)

Start by taking off the bolts that the flex plate and torque convertor connected by.

Now your should have a exposed real main seal, (replace it if bad or leak)

Part 2. Getting rid of stuff you don't need
Now this point your gunna have to prep stuff for the manual transmission

Prep the Manual Transmission while its not installed check your slave and and fluids

Cut and remove the Transmission Line that is connected to the radiator

Next plug up the ports (i removed the hard lines considering you can resell them, I found that Jb Weld did a great job in sealing)

Cut and make room for the shifter,
1.Your gunna have to remove the center console (disconnect all the wires and remove the auto shifter assembly)
2.There is a stamp on the body shaped in the letter E that's where the Shifter sits at.
3.There two layers of metal in that area, cut the bottom part and have the top layer exposed
4.Get a circle cut out for the shifter to go up
5.Make holes for the new studs from the shifter plate to mount to (your gunna need to have the transmission to size it up)

Part 3. Mounting the Manual Transmission
Now you should have the area prep and ready to install

Here is a link that goes into more detail for installing a clutch

Install the Flywheel, then the clutch with the clutch tool, then install the Clutch Disc (don't forget to lube up the splines, and clean the flywheel and Clutch disc with BC)
At this point its time to mount the transmission. (make sure the transmission is in neutral, use the shift linkage to put it into neutral)

If you have a gap and everything seems like it checks out well
1.Match the holes with the guide pins with the block and use the bolts to evenly bring the transmission to close the gap, then mount the bolts that connect the block and tranny

Mount the transmission support holes there already predrilled holes from factory that sits closer to the front of the car
(flip the crossbar to match up if its not)

Part 4. Matching everything up
Check the shifter is sizing up to your cut. if you have the linkage on just move it down

Now you wanna mount and install your shifter
1.if your running oem or short shifter your gunna have to modify the tunnel either add a plate so the shifter sits higher
2.if you don't wanna deal with all the headache purchase the coolworx shifter, its shorter and the linkage sits higher
(reason is because the shifter is gunna interfere with drive shaft)

Start reconnecting and attach your starter and wires together (your gunna have two connector that gunna be unused for now)

Part 5. The Pedal
Now if your kit comes with the brake reservoir with the port that feeds your master cylinder just swap them out (you will have to bleed the brakes)
If you don't have the reservoir with the port you will have to get a clutch master cylinder from a 240 and modify it

Remove the ECU and TCU so you have access to the stamp where the clutch pedal sits at

There is a pre stamp from factory where your pedal is mounting up too, you will have to cut and drill some holes for it.

Cut and size the studs and such and feed the hard line and connect it to the slave line

You will have two studs where on the clutch pedal will have two mounting holes where they go thru, remove the plastic clip that holds the wire in place(makes it easier now than later)

Then mount up your pedal

Bleed the clutch

Part 6. Reinstalling
Now you should have the tranny and shifter mounted up

Reinstall your driveshaft, exhaust, heat shield.

Part 7. Checking
Don't drop your car until you see both of your wheels spinning
Remember you have two wire connectors that is hanging one of them is a neutral safety switch that lets the car know its in park or not, make sure its connect or the car won't turn over.
If your having issues getting the car to turn over, double check connectors and sensors
Brake Pedal Sensor, Neutral Safety Switch (comes off of the automatic tran), TCU & ECU, etc

Start up you will have CEL for the tranny

Go thru your gears and make sure they work

Congratz, you have done the Manual Swap. Now if it doesn't start up double check everything!

Pictures attached below if your running into some questions.(note this is install with the coolerworx shifter)


1 Posts
Hi, thanks for taking the time to post this. I'm looking to manual swap my Genesis, and this has been a huge help so far.
I do have a few questions though; do you know what the CEL was for specifically? Also, do you know of any way to get around it, or will the light come on no matter what?
Any response is appreciated, thank you!

1 Posts
there is no issues with running the manual swap on automatic ecu and harness? on other forum posts, i see ppl having issues starting the car on auto harness

Premium Member
16,577 Posts
there is no issues with running the manual swap on automatic ecu and harness? on other forum posts, i see ppl having issues starting the car on auto harness
reason is the ECU needs to "see" that the transmission is in neutral before starting the engine.
The ECU thinks that you are trying to start the engine while the transmission is in drive.

Many moons ago, with was trying to find, what is commonly called a neutral safety switch. I couldn't find it in Hyundai shop documentation.
Since others have got something working, either; I wasn't looking hard enough, hyundai calls it something different, or they swapped in an ecu for a manual.
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