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Hi All,

2013 2.0t base owner, have a cold air intake installed, TurboXS blow off valve and a Stage 1 SFR tune. My car had been hesitating a little bit around 4k RPMs, the other day I took a video to show to a friend what was happening, and it actually threw a check engine light. P0300, P0301, P0304... random misfires, cylinder 1 misfire, cylinder 4 misfire. I popped out the SFR tuned ECU and put back in the stock - tried to force another CEL before taking it to Hyundai and, despite the car still not feeling quite right, couldn't get it to misfire again. I decided to go to Hyundai anyway and the mechanic first said he isn't able to diagnose what is wrong due to the CAI and the BOV, he said he felt hesitation but there were no misfires/codes on the ECU. Spark plugs are fine, his recommendation was to reattach the recirc hose from the BOV to the intake, he said that may help out with the hesitation.

I'm going to try that, but I'm not convinced. I thought it was odd that I can reliably "make" the car misfire with the SFR tuned ECU, but once the stock one was in it would not behave nearly as bad. Anyone have any similar stories or thoughts on what my next steps should be? Not very car savvy so any advice is definitely welcomed. Thanks!

Chris
 

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Have you checked the plug gap?
THIS^^^

I literally went through this the last 2 weeks. For about the last 18-ish months I have had a SFR 1.5 with CAI, TBE, BOV, and colder plugs. The entire time I had an exhaust leak at the O2 housing that wasn't noticeable until months later or even throwing a code. It gradually got way worse and ran crazy rich, then threw a code a few months ago. Finally fixed it but was taking it easy since my clutch was beginning to slip.

Finally got new clutch installed and for the first time since the canned tune went in my car was running 100% with no apparent problems. But the first time I really got on it after breaking in the clutch I was having the same exact symptoms as you. Severe hesitation after about 4k at WOT. My first thought was fouled plugs since it ran rich for so long so I pulled them out and they looked perfect. However I noticed the gap looked kinda big. Measured and all were between .32 and .34, which is what they come out of the box at. When I got my tune I asked Jay @ SFR what gap they recommend and he said just go with the factory gap so I threw them in.

I decided to do a little digging and the gap recommendations on this site are all over the place. I looked on other boards with people running moderate-high boost and saw that outside of this community almost everyone was running about .20 gap for anything over 18psi. So I gapped mine down to .22 to see how it would respond and the problem went away instantly and seems to pull harder than ever. Although I am just now running 100% it feels tons better than even the first couple months with the tune when there was a leak that wasn't even noticeable.
 

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How much boost are you running? Because depending on how much boost I'd recommend gapping to 0.28. I got the best dyno results with the BTR stage 2 custom tune with that gap.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 

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My car seems happiest at .025, which is fine I only have to re-gap once a year
 
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