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Just FYI, there have been massive complaints about the Mishimoto radiator ranging from poor cooling ability to constant coolant leaks.

Also, I will state, the slim fan shroud will not guarantee cooler temperatures. If there is air, poor mix ratio (over 50% coolant), ECU settings for when the fans come on or it's just a garbage core, no amount of air flow will help it.

- Verify your mix ratio (tester is about $17).
- Make sure your system is properly bled, Hyundai recommends three fan cycles at idle to ensure there is no air left or trapped in the heater core.

Aside from getting a device like a CMD or Haltech or buying a new tune, there isn't much to anything you can do about when the fan cycles. If you want ultimate control, switch to a semi-manual setup like Red has.

I use a CSF radiator and my fan shroud and I've got coolant temps around 176* cruising, peaking around 190'ish around town. The shroud itself is primarily for allowing you to bolt on whatever fans you want and giving you more engine room. Depending on which fans you use, this can result in more air flow when the fans are on (typically low speed, with the wind or in the twisties). But if your coolant temps are higher than normal and you're driving down the highway at 60mph, that's not the shroud or fans (OE or aftermarket), that's the radiator or the coolant state.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Snoopy, thanks for your reply. I know I do not have any leaks visually and the system is bled even though I do not have a coolant tank (I just use a water bottle for now and it is always half way full). Besides, usually when I bleed a system - I turn the heat on while the fan goes through its cycles to make sure there is no air trapped out in the back. The hose at the power steering has been disconnected until fluid started coming out of it. Having that said, I don't think it is air pockets though.

Here's what I've noticed yesterday: I went out to tune my MBC and after a few WOTs I pulled on to some parking lot to give the MBC a few more turns and decided to stare at my fan while I had my hood open. I also had the phone in my hands with Torque running and I was just watching the temps. So, at idle the fan came on when the temperature got up to 203*. It didn't take but 30-40 seconds for the temperature to go back to ~190*. I basically stayed there and watched this process 3 times. It did not go above 203*.

I truly hope that my core isn't that shi**y... I am just tired if messing with it. To be honest, if I could return it - I would and put the stock one back on, but unfortunately this isn't the case anymore since I had to trim the shroud brackets off and then cut some more so my IC pipes would go through.

I wonder how Mishimoto's warranty works. It says it is lifetime. So far, the car hasn't overheated with 50/50 mixture but in case if it will - I am definitely sending it to them.

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On the side note: it is funny seeing people in other threads whether if they do a review or a step by step install or w/e and none of them report whether if they noticed any difference in cooling - makes me think they just throw parts on just because they can. I have not seen one thread where at least one person mentioned anything about the hole that is left after the OEM intercooler removal (unless they leave it in there of course).
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Make sure the cap is good and seals properly. On my Koyo radiator the upper sealing area on the cap neck had some small scratches in it and I had to polish it up.
The very top part which has the connection with the rubber in the cap is OK. There are some scratches already on the sides though because of me taking the cap off multiple times, but I don't think it affects anything.
 

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A good way to know for sure if there is no air in the system is to take the cap off after it has sat all night. If it is completely fill you are good to go. If the level is down a bit there is air.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I opened a case with mishimoto... thanks for help but I feel like we ran out of ideas here. Let's see what they say. In the ticket I simply copied this thread's link.

As soon as they reply, I will come back here and post it up : )
 

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That gap below and my AWIC, @MZ777 was exactly why I started making the shroud. Additional cooling capability was a perk to me but I wanted something clean and didn't want to be zip-tying my fans to my radiator.

This may be a case of your low speed fan resistor (little green coil on the shroud) being dead. Based on the temperature the fan is kicking on at, that sounds more like your high-speed fan, not your low. Make sure that that resistor is fine and try swapping your high and low relays. They run off the same fuse so no point chasing that.
 

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As far as I know the hi speed fan never kicks in for engine coolant temp control. I cannot confirm though as I have a BR tune that has the lo speed fan on all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
By the sound of the fan, it didn't seem like it was on high though... It did come on at 203 as I said earlier. If i go and turn the AC on - the fan will be a lot louder...
 

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By the sound of the fan, it didn't seem like it was on high though... It did come on at 203 as I said earlier. If i go and turn the AC on - the fan will be a lot louder...
Try leaving the AC on and use the temp control to keep the inside comfortable and see what the coolant temp does when below 35 mph.
 

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As far as I know the hi speed fan never kicks in for engine coolant temp control. I cannot confirm though as I have a BR tune that has the lo speed fan on all the time.
I don't know how BR does it, but according to both Haltech and VEOCOM, the fans have a separate target temperature for the high and low thermofans, A/C commands the fans into High for both but with the Haltech you can disable that.
 

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There really are two circuits for the fans. The lo speed goes through the resistor to drop the voltage down to about 10v and hi speed is the full 12v. When the hi speed is commanded on both the circuits and relays are active, so it is passing 12v and 10v to the fan motor. Obviously the fan is using the 12v and it is some sort of a fail safe logic.

BR using the PA software has told me they really can't fix their issue of the lo speed being on all the time. And I can assure you the hi speed will not come on, with their tune, due to coolant temp.

I don't know what the issue is and it's kind of ridiculous actually. It's a bug in the programming or otherwise I don't see why they would change anything from stock. But it is the reason I put in the separate independent controller, to keep the lo speed fan off rather than have it running all the time and use the hi speed for cooling and AC. I suppose if you have the IC in the stock location then the fan running all the time under 35 mph is beneficial.

With the Koyo V6 radiator there really is little need for the fan at all as far as engine cooling. As long as the car is moving or has not been sitting idling for 10 minutes or so it never comes on and is set at 200F.

FWIW the 13's all use the same radiator; the V6 one. The shroud and fan are still different part numbers, which I don't know why. The only reason someone should use the Mishimoto radiator for the 2L is to maintain the IC in the stock location.
 

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Might not be apples to apples, but on my 3.8T pushing 475 rwhp, I love my Mishimoto radiator and Uniq slim fan shroud. I am using two Perma-cool PRM-19112 fans, each rated at 3300 cfm, for 6600 cfm total. The factory ECU controls them. The low fan comes on when the A/C is on or when my coolant temps reach about 205F (as measured by my own sender/gauge at the top hose of the radiator. The low fan turns off when it reaches about 195F. Both fans turn on when it hits about 215-220F. My regular cruising temperatures (60+ mph) though when it is about 85F outside air temp, are around 175-185F. When stopped in traffic it can reach 205F sometimes. I don't worry one bit about those temps. I would start to worry if it passed 220F, and probably pull over and try to find out why it was so high and let it cool down.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Damn... That's $160 per each fan... Definitely out of my budget LOL nor am I even close to your numbers HAHA with my PRW Stage 2, I will probably be at 250-270 at the wheels and a little over 300 on torque. As far as temperature goes, yeah, that's pretty much what I got. On highway it stays below 190F and in traffic it varies between 205-195... At times it goes to 190F. I wouldn't worry about these temps if I was on stock radiator, but heck man, this "upgrade" is basically worthless for me..

The only reason someone should use the Mishimoto radiator for the 2L is to maintain the IC in the stock location.
Red,

I didn't go the 3.8 route because I was afraid of the modifications I had to go through with the IC kit I got especially not knowing how well the plumbing would fit with or w/o the radiator. Only if I could return/sell the radiator - I would, but once again - it is no longer an option because I had to chop some pieces off...

My options:

* Keep driving as it is and keep an eye on the temps
* Get UNIQ shroud and see what happens...
* Ditch this rad / have it exchanged in warranty (hopefully) and sell it thereafter
* Get the 3.8 rad + UNIQ shroud and 2 12" fans I already have. This would be the best option but pricey...
* Put stock rad back on
 

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i have a Mishimoto Radiator Fan for my bk2 3.8l. I dont know if this will help but my temps normal driving is about 180Fahrenheit and at the track after a hot lap goes to 190~193Fahrenheit at most.
 

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No, those had to come off because the treadstone core wouldn't clear them...
I can confirm this, the lower half of those sides have to be removed for the core to fit. I just took dikes to mine and cut the lower section out for the core so I did not have to remove them all together. The core fills the space of these fins so it shouldn't effect air flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Ok so, I just came back from work driving 70+ MPH and of course I took some screen shots. It appears that I have "better" cooling and frankly lower temperature when I drive in the city or below 50 MPH. That tells me that the shroud is now working as it should; however, my temperature still isn't even close to what others report. Mine just stays between 180-195F range - which is not too bad IMHO -- and that's with AC off of course. Once I get on the highway, I see the temperature slowly but surely raising to 200s and just stays there -- that's with AC OFF too. It only lowers if I take an exit and slow down. So, watch this:

Got on the highway; NO A/C



Slowed down a little bit



So, then I got home, parked and turned the A/C on to see what happens...



The fan turned on and didn't turn off until it got to 190F...

Any thoughts? Again, have no air in the system for damn sure. Before I went to work I opened the cap and it was full... Why this damn thing doesn't stay at 190F when I drive 70+MPH....

One other thing, Mishimoto will be calling me tomorrow after they go over this thread. I will keep this updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I can confirm this, the lower half of those sides have to be removed for the core to fit. I just took dikes to mine and cut the lower section out for the core so I did not have to remove them all together. The core fills the space of these fins so it shouldn't effect air flow.
Well, after spending 36 hours installing IC/radiator, I threw the air dams away... But, here I go! I should be able to confirm if this does anything at all tomorrow when I go to work.









Gotta love my aluminum tape!





 
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