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Discussion Starter #41
These are actually bigger than the stock ones and close more area. I sealed everything off, just didn't take a picture at the end... If you guys are saying this is my problem - pff, I'll prove y'all wrong - IMHO, these hardly do anything. We'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I use a CSF radiator and my fan shroud and I've got coolant temps around 176* cruising, peaking around 190'ish around town. The shroud itself is primarily for allowing you to bolt on whatever fans you want and giving you more engine room. Depending on which fans you use, this can result in more air flow when the fans are on (typically low speed, with the wind or in the twisties). But if your coolant temps are higher than normal and you're driving down the highway at 60mph, that's not the shroud or fans (OE or aftermarket), that's the radiator or the coolant state.
Visually, CSF looks identical size-wise as my Mishimoto. The coolant I've used was 50/50 premixed, so I know it can't be that. I've used Peak brand coolant/antifreeze many times with no issues. When you say "my fan shroud" - you mean the one you and uniq came up with? I've asked UNIQ what fans they supply and they never got back to me. The ones I have laying around are some ebay special ones. On the box it says ~1750 CFM which I highly doubt but they do move some air (I've had them on my 240 and it never overheated).
 

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On a daily drive to work, stop and go traffic I havent seen 215*.
Are you sure you dont have some air bubbles in the system?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Read this thread once again - http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discussion-2008-2012/25455-coolant-temp.html and don't know what else to think. As I was predicting - my custom airdams did not do a whack for me... I did open the cap again this morning and it was full. So, no air bubbles.

Since I do not remember seeing temperatures so high with my stock radiator, depending on how things are going to go with Mishimoto technical support, I may just put my stock radiator back on. I am sorry but this is f*cked up... I cannot believe I am going through this.

I wonder if I should talk to @Enjuku Racing about this since I bought it from them?

And as always - some more screen shots, just watch the trip timer. It was chilly this morning and the temps were still at nearly 200s range... Most of them were taken when I was in traffic or at red lights...









 

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Those are the normal operating temperatures for your engine. I'm not sure what the problem is.

The thermostat doesn't become fully open on our cars until about 185-190F. So when it hits that temperature, it starts flowing coolant to the radiator, which does its job and keeps the temperature in that range. If it falls lower, like 175F or so, then the thermostat closes and the temperature rises again. Cycle repeats. If it is warm enough outside (70F+), then typically it will stay in the 185-190F range, a few degrees above that is still in the normal range. The high temp warning light on the dash does not even come on until it is above 230F.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Those are the normal operating temperatures for your engine. I'm not sure what the problem is.

The thermostat doesn't become fully open on our cars until about 185-190F. So when it hits that temperature, it starts flowing coolant to the radiator, which does its job and keeps the temperature in that range. If it falls lower, like 175F or so, then the thermostat closes and the temperature rises again. Cycle repeats. If it is warm enough outside (70F+), then typically it will stay in the 185-190F range, a few degrees above that is still in the normal range. The high temp warning light on the dash does not even come on until it is above 230F.
The problem lays in the fact that the car is running hotter with larger radiator. I have never seen temperatures going to 200F with my stock radiator. So far, there's no logic explanation to why this is happening because I've done everything I could on my end; I sealed off the gap, which was caused by the OEM intercooler removal and last night's custom airdams - which didn't do anything. I have brand new coolant 50/50 mix, no air in the system. This leades to a bad Mishimoto core. There's nothing left to check.

No other changes to the cooling hoses, say the two hoses after the head to the water pump?

Perhaps the T-stat is bad? It is rated at 82C.
I don't think it's bad. The car has 50k miles on it and again, it never ran at those temps before. I don't believe in it suddenly going bad right after the radiator/IC install.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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I can take a pic of what mine shows but it never gets to 200F under normal circumstances.

Just asking about the t-stat because I'm sure Misho will.

And you have not done any other changes to any of the cooling hoses?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I have this:



However, for w/e reason the lower hose was causing the IC pipe not going through (I guess it's shape is a little weird), so I ditched it and reused the OEM one that I've had previously. I did have to trim it a bit because it was longer than needed. The only hose I use from the pic above is the upper hose, because the OEM one had a couple of cracks in it, so I decided not reusing it.
 

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I opened a case with mishimoto... thanks for help but I feel like we ran out of ideas here. Let's see what they say. In the ticket I simply copied this thread's link.
As soon as they reply, I will come back here and post it up : )
Ok so, I just came back from work driving 70+ MPH and of course I took some screen shots. It appears that I have "better" cooling and frankly lower temperature when I drive in the city or below 50 MPH. That tells me that the shroud is now working as it should; however, my temperature still isn't even close to what others report. Mine just stays between 180-195F range - which is not too bad IMHO -- and that's with AC off of course. Once I get on the highway, I see the temperature slowly but surely raising to 200s and just stays there -- that's with AC OFF too. It only lowers if I take an exit and slow down. So, watch this:
Got on the highway; NO A/C
Slowed down a little bit
So, then I got home, parked and turned the A/C on to see what happens...
The fan turned on and didn't turn off until it got to 190F...
Any thoughts? Again, have no air in the system for damn sure. Before I went to work I opened the cap and it was full... Why this damn thing doesn't stay at 190F when I drive 70+MPH....
One other thing, Mishimoto will be calling me tomorrow after they go over this thread. I will keep this updated.
Read this thread once again - http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discussion-2008-2012/25455-coolant-temp.html and don't know what else to think. As I was predicting - my custom airdams did not do a whack for me... I did open the cap again this morning and it was full. So, no air bubbles.
Since I do not remember seeing temperatures so high with my stock radiator, depending on how things are going to go with Mishimoto technical support, I may just put my stock radiator back on. I am sorry but this is f*cked up... I cannot believe I am going through this.
I wonder if I should talk to @Enjuku Racing about this since I bought it from them?
And as always - some more screen shots, just watch the trip timer. It was chilly this morning and the temps were still at nearly 200s range... Most of them were taken when I was in traffic or at red lights...
I apologize for the issues you are experiencing with our radiator! Although it appears you are working with our customer service team, we are also chiming in here to see if we can determine why the issues are occurring. As others have mentioned, many of the symptoms of air within the cooling system are presenting themselves. That being said, assuming you are sure this is not the case, we can set this reasoning to the side for now.

Your idle temperatures seem relatively normal, especially when at a stop in traffic. The only concern I see is in regards to the highway temperatures hovering in the 200F range. I would have to assume these should regulate right around the activation temperature of the thermostat (180F activation, fully open by 190F). You also noted the existence of a FMIC upgrade on your vehicle? Which particular setup are you running? Was this installed at the same time as the radiator? I am wondering if this heat exchanger is impacting airflow to the core of the radiator.

Those are the normal operating temperatures for your engine. I'm not sure what the problem is.
The thermostat doesn't become fully open on our cars until about 185-190F. So when it hits that temperature, it starts flowing coolant to the radiator, which does its job and keeps the temperature in that range. If it falls lower, like 175F or so, then the thermostat closes and the temperature rises again. Cycle repeats. If it is warm enough outside (70F+), then typically it will stay in the 185-190F range, a few degrees above that is still in the normal range. The high temp warning light on the dash does not even come on until it is above 230F.
Thanks for chiming in!

The problem lays in the fact that the car is running hotter with larger radiator. I have never seen temperatures going to 200F with my stock radiator. So far, there's no logic explanation to why this is happening because I've done everything I could on my end; I sealed off the gap, which was caused by the OEM intercooler removal and last night's custom airdams - which didn't do anything. I have brand new coolant 50/50 mix, no air in the system. This leades to a bad Mishimoto core. There's nothing left to check.

I don't think it's bad. The car has 50k miles on it and again, it never ran at those temps before. I don't believe in it suddenly going bad right after the radiator/IC install.
Interesting! Do you recall estimated highway temperatures prior to install? Also, this brings back my question earlier in regards to the FMIC choice. Is the core of your intercooler blocking the radiator completely?

Let us know! Would definitely like to see this sorted out as soon as possible!

Thanks
-John

Might not be apples to apples, but on my 3.8T pushing 475 rwhp, I love my Mishimoto radiator and Uniq slim fan shroud. I am using two Perma-cool PRM-19112 fans, each rated at 3300 cfm, for 6600 cfm total. The factory ECU controls them. The low fan comes on when the A/C is on or when my coolant temps reach about 205F (as measured by my own sender/gauge at the top hose of the radiator. The low fan turns off when it reaches about 195F. Both fans turn on when it hits about 215-220F. My regular cruising temperatures (60+ mph) though when it is about 85F outside air temp, are around 175-185F. When stopped in traffic it can reach 205F sometimes. I don't worry one bit about those temps. I would start to worry if it passed 220F, and probably pull over and try to find out why it was so high and let it cool down.
Thanks for the input and kind words!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Hi @Mishimoto

I will be answering your questions in order:

I have a Treadstone IC kit. Those who have it will agree with me that it is roughly the same size as the Mishimoto one (same mounting style). The crash bar is still in place and the core itself is sitting right below it.

This intercooler is not big enough to have any sort of blockage of the radiator whatsoever. I've installed the radiator and the intercooler kit at the same time. I am happy with my IAT temperatures after the install because before I was in fact getting heat soaked, so the intercooler upgrade was not worthless; the highest I ever see now is probably 20-25*F more than the ambient (driving in the city), I mean my screen shorts speak for themselves. The IATs increase with the coolant temps; once the coolant raises to 200* F and above, the same goes for IATs (~130* F)...

Ok so, the bottom of the radiator is roughly on the same level with the top of the crash bar (if looking at it from the side). The intercooler sits below the crash bar; therefore, there is no blockage there.

As I've mentioned in my earlier posts, fitting the radiator took me the most. All together from start to finish, installing both products took me 36 hours. The part that had to be trimmed off on the radiator has zero effect on its performance - it's just a mount that was on the way of IC pipes.

Also, watching the official YouTube install video where that blond, pro drifter guy does the install (not that I really had to watch the install video, just did it out of curiosity), I do not recall him putting the OEM intercooler back in place after installing Mishimoto radiator/intercooler. Now, some people can do that if they want to (or if they keep the stock intercooler), although I think this step should be completely optional. For me it's not even applicable because of treadstone's intercooler pipes - there's not enough space - that's one; two, I prefer getting rid of the OEM equipment if it's not being used. Yes, it will result in open space right under the radiator and the fan shroud not covering anything, but it is fixed and sealed (posted earlier). The shroud performs as it should.

Another thing were the airdams which I threw away accidentally, but I ended up making my own (as posted earlier) which are larger. Even though I believe these pieces hardly do anything at all, I still decided to go ahead and make some - so that will be out of the way as well. So, I made and installed them and noticed no change in coolant temperature at higher speeds...
@jesse82nc said that I should start worrying if my coolant gets over 220* F, well guess what, in some cases I am only 5 degrees away from that - I don't want to risk because I've NEVER EVER had 200+ degrees with my stock radiator and I sure will go back to it if I have to. The good thing is that our ambient temperature isn't even that high yet; I wonder what will happen once our temperature will get to 100+...

I look forward to have things worked out as soon as possible. No, I am not going to have an e-war here; we're all adults and this situation should be taken care of accordingly. I know it's hard to keep everyone happy, but hey, it doesn't take much to make me happy in this situation - I just want to get my money worth. If I still had the original box and didn't have to trim the radiator - I sure would return it... Although in this case I don't know - I could be still eligible, so.

Some pictures:





Notice the gap between the radiator and the AC condenser:









Before:



After:



Before:





After:





 

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Discussion Starter #53
I also have the Grimmspeed Phenolic spacer too and I did notice a drop in IATs just with that. So, the spacer and IC do their job for sure.
 

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Hmmm, I left that big gaping hole there on mine and did not even think about it. Ill have to log my temps after work tonight and tomorrow..... we can compare temps with the intercooler vs OEM rad and Mishi Rad.
 

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Hey @PeanutButter, did you get a chance to see the temps? So, you have the same setup as myself, but you got the OEM rad and the fan is open, correct?



Believe me, same here...
yep same setup minus Mishi rad. Had trouble finding my Bluetooth obd adapter last night I will look for it again tonight. I have a 4 day weekend ahead of me to install my new clutch so Im sure I will get to it in the next couple days.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
yep same setup minus Mishi rad. Had trouble finding my Bluetooth obd adapter last night I will look for it again tonight. I have a 4 day weekend ahead of me to install my new clutch so Im sure I will get to it in the next couple days.
Ok. Really interested in seeing your temps. Don't forget to post up the ambient temps too if you would. Good luck with clutch install!

Here's last night after a 15 mile drive to fully warm everything up.. Ambient temp was 54F. Middle gauge on top is oil temp. Car is stopped and idling.
Not bad; I can only wish to have my numbers at least close to what you got... Our Memphis temps are mid 60s in the morning and high 70s later.

How long you've been idling for? Were your fans running? So, I remember you saying you no longer have the low speed, so at what temps does the high speed come on?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Another thing to note is that my trip to/from work is 20 miles each way. The highway is right next to my house and takes 3 minutes to get on, so 10 miles on that and 10 more miles in city w/traffic and plenty of traffic lights. When I go back home, 10 city miles with heavy ass traffic, I have 205-215F. When it's time to get on the highway for the remaining 10 miles, it does not go lower 200-205F usually going over 70 MPH.

Also, I have a reply from @Enjuku Racing and this is what they advised:

I would continue to keep in contact with Mishimoto on this issue. As far as returning the item, it will be up to Mishimoto if they will take this item back or not. We never take things back that has been cut and modified but due to the circumstances, it should be taken in consideration by the manufacturer. Please keep working with Mishimoto to see if you can move forward with this issue.
I do not mind working things out while our ambient temperature stays below 90* and expect to have a resolution as soon as possible before the temperature gets any higher. Would it be another radiator to try or a return/refund type of deal - doesn't matter to me - I still have my OEM radiator which I know was "functional" for 3 years owning the vehicle. Even if @Mishimoto takes it back from me, I am still SOL considering me having to heavily modify the fan shroud for their radiator; will probably have to buy another one...

I will post a screen shot today after I get home. I will idle for the same amount as @Red Raspberry if he posts the time beforehand.
 
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