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AMB~1YR
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Discussion Starter #81
Might help a little with voltage spikes like a cap does but I can't see it solving the issue completely. If you require an x amount of amperage than you need that same amperage from you alternator directly. Everything inbetween just buffers and maintains voltage but doesn't supply current which taxes the alternator even more. Are you using it in your GC right now and what amperage do your amps require?
 

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Go Hyundai!
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1,009 Posts
I did check with Nathan at Excessive Amperage and he said he would have no problem building a new 200-300 amp alternator with an external voltage regulator for either engine.

And as for Facebook, I use it as my primary way to contact most of my vendors, The TurboKits Crew is especially responsive on there.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Might help a little with voltage spikes like a cap does but I can't see it solving the issue completely. If you require an x amount of amperage than you need that same amperage from you alternator directly. Everything inbetween just buffers and maintains voltage but doesn't supply current which taxes the alternator even more. Are you using it in your GC right now and what amperage do your amps require?
No it won't help if the continuous drain is more than the alternator can maintain. But it will maintain whatever voltage and current you need until the battery falls to under 10v.

I doubt if the continuous draw is actually a flat, stable amount. But it will fill in the spikes.
 

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13' GRAN PREMIO GRY TRACK
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669 Posts
I did check with Nathan at Excessive Amperage and he said he would have no problem building a new 200-300 amp alternator with an external voltage regulator for either engine.

And as for Facebook, I use it as my primary way to contact most of my vendors, The TurboKits Crew is especially responsive on there.
Nathan has built 3 alts for me, and I cannot speak highly enough about his customer service!

He even went the extra mile for my HO alt in a mark VIII when no one else would even bother trying.
 

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Go Hyundai!
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Nathan has built 3 alts for me, and I cannot speak highly enough about his customer service!

He even went the extra mile for my HO alt in a mark VIII when no one else would even bother trying.
I originally ordered a 200 amp alternator for one of my trucks from him, he told me he was a little busy and it might take a little while, but he also said that he had a 300 amp one already built (for a customer that backed out) and wanted to know if I wanted that for the price of the 200 amp one. I gladly agreed and now I have a monster 300 amp alternator :D
 

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13' GRAN PREMIO GRY TRACK
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669 Posts
I originally ordered a 200 amp alternator for one of my trucks from him, he told me he was a little busy and it might take a little while, but he also said that he had a 300 amp one already built (for a customer that backed out) and wanted to know if I wanted that for the price of the 200 amp one. I gladly agreed and now I have a monster 300 amp alternator :D
He built me a 300A for the Mark VIII which was rocking 3 Orion HCCA-275-G4's along with 2 Oasis 1000's air compressors, boy was that car power hungry. haha
 

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Because Racecar
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227 Posts
So did anyone here purchase one of Nathan from Excessive Amperage's alternators for our vehicle?
I currently have a two amplifiers, a JL HD 750 and a Gladen 250c4. So I'm currently drawing close to 2000 wrms. The HD 750, powering my two JL 10W7's, cuts out if the remote bass knob is turned up much more than half way. :(
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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41 Posts
If you do a big 4 upgrade you will increase the efficiency of your stock 130 amp alternator. Running neg 0AGW from the back of the alernator back to the frame or the battery will increase the Neg flow along with doing the same to the possitive line. Then ground to the chassi and also to the frame or engine block. You should not have issues with the amount of power you are running. Make sure all of your grounds are good on the amps. The cutting out may be cause from the AMP clipping.
 

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Because Racecar
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227 Posts
If you do a big 4 upgrade you will increase the efficiency of your stock 130 amp alternator. Running neg 0AGW from the back of the alernator back to the frame or the battery will increase the Neg flow along with doing the same to the possitive line. Then ground to the chassi and also to the frame or engine block. You should not have issues with the amount of power you are running. Make sure all of your grounds are good on the amps. The cutting out may be cause from the AMP clipping.
The JL HD amplifiers are a bit different because they have regulated power supplies. The amp is not clipping, but protecting because it is seeing a momentary voltage drop. I've checked and double checked the grounds. Each amp has it's own separate run from the battery and I have upgraded the ground for the battery.
My installer, along with JL, is telling me that I need to upgrade the alternator.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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18,268 Posts
The JL HD amplifiers are a bit different because they have regulated power supplies. The amp is not clipping, but protecting because it is seeing a momentary voltage drop. I've checked and double checked the grounds. Each amp has it's own separate run from the battery and I have upgraded the ground for the battery.
My installer, along with JL, is telling me that I need to upgrade the alternator.
That's where you need a HD power supply feeding the amps. Like this if you can find one.

Jacobs Electronics AccuVolt FR1500W adjustible voltage stabilizer and regulator
 

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AMB~1YR
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3,073 Posts
Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
I currently have a two amplifiers, a JL HD 750 and a Gladen 250c4. So I'm currently drawing close to 2000 wrms. The HD 750, powering my two JL 10W7's, cuts out if the remote bass knob is turned up much more than half way. :(
Nice amps you have there. Both amps combined you are capable of drawing almost 200 amps. The Big 3 or Big 4 is always a bonus and will make your alternator more efficient but wont give you more current than what the alternator puts out so in your case it might give you a bit more leeway but won't solve your protection mode issue in and of itself. Regulated power supplies have their benefits as you will have a constant rms output even if the voltage drops because it will draw more current to compensate but if the current isn't there...well hence your problem. The simple fix is to replace your sub amp with a non regulated one. That way if the voltage drops it won't pull more current, just provide less rms output. At least it won't go in to protect mode. Another option is to replace your stock under hood wet cell battery with a strong AGM battery which will provide a good buffer between alternator and amp for extra current released quickly during voltage spikes. It could just be enough to solve the problem but if not a H/O alternator is what you need.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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18,268 Posts
If the amps are rated at 12v then all that is needed is a bigger battery and cables. If they are rated at 14v then that becomes a problem as the battery can never deliver 14v on it's own. That has to come from the alternator.
 

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Because Racecar
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227 Posts
Nice amps you have there. Both amps combined you are capable of drawing almost 200 amps. The Big 3 or Big 4 is always a bonus and will make your alternator more efficient but wont give you more current than what the alternator puts out so in your case it might give you a bit more leeway but won't solve your protection mode issue in and of itself. Regulated power supplies have their benefits as you will have a constant rms output even if the voltage drops because it will draw more current to compensate but if the current isn't there...well hence your problem. The simple fix is to replace your sub amp with a non regulated one. That way if the voltage drops it won't pull more current, just provide less rms output. At least it won't go in to protect mode. Another option is to replace your stock under hood wet cell battery with a strong AGM battery which will provide a good buffer between alternator and amp for extra current released quickly during voltage spikes. It could just be enough to solve the problem but if not a H/O alternator is what you need.
I've already upgraded to a Braille AGM B7548: https://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/braille/product_batteries/b7548

It helped some but when I'm idling or the revs drop the amp will start to protect during bass heavy parts of songs.
 

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AMB~1YR
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3,073 Posts
Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
If the amps are rated at 12v then all that is needed is a bigger battery and cables. If they are rated at 14v then that becomes a problem as the battery can never deliver 14v on it's own. That has to come from the alternator.
All cea-compliant amps are rated a 14.4 volts.

I've already upgraded to a Braille AGM B7548: https://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/braille/product_batteries/b7548

It helped some but when I'm idling or the revs drop the amp will start to protect during bass heavy parts of songs.
Excellent! Well proof is in the pudding. Either get yourself a non-regulated amp or a H/O alternator but personally I would just go the simple route at your power level and get a non regulated amp. I run a cea-compliant true 2K Hifonics BE2100.1 non regulated amp running 2 10" Orion HCCA's, Big 3 and AGM battery. I get voltage drop for sure but the amp still works as it doesn't need to draw more current to compensate. I mean a H/O alternator would be nice but I've been running this setup for over 3 years and everything is still kicking despite the voltage drop so unless I wan't even more power I think now I'm good with the stock alternator.

Check out my new vid.

 

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Because Racecar
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227 Posts
All cea-compliant amps are rated a 14.4 volts.



Excellent! Well proof is in the pudding. Either get yourself a non-regulated amp or a H/O alternator but personally I would just go the simple route at your power level and get a non regulated amp. I run a cea-compliant true 2K Hifonics BE2100.1 non regulated amp running 2 10" Orion HCCA's, Big 3 and AGM battery. I get voltage drop for sure but the amp still works as it doesn't need to draw more current to compensate. I mean a H/O alternator would be nice but I've been running this setup for over 3 years and everything is still kicking despite the voltage drop so unless I wan't even more power I think now I'm good with the stock alternator.

Check out my new vid.

Genesis Coupe Audio - 2 10" Orion HCCA Flexing Headliner - YouTube
I wish I had known this before purchasing the HD 750. That amplifier is not cheap by any means and I will definitely lose money trying to sell it.
 

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AMB~1YR
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3,073 Posts
Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
Yes JL Audio is expensive but imo you pay for the name like all other mainstream audio. Ya it sucks to take a hit on money like that but it's a sacrifice for a system that runs on your electrical. Look into Hifonics Brutus series if you're on a budget. They are the best cea-compliant, non regulated amps for the money IMO. For high end cea-compliant, unregulated amps go with Soundqubed, Crescendo or Sundown. Any one of those amps around 1K-1.5K should do just fine for your subs.

PS: IMO regulated amps are only needed for music speakers where you want the volume output to remain level. It's easier to hear a volume level change in music frequencies compared to sub bass frequencies due to voltage drop.
 
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