[Cryptonic_Sonic]

Hey guys!

I've been doing lots of reading on here, and never really found anything conclusive for this.

I bought my 2013 3.8 M/T Track new. It's always been stock except for the wheels. Every 20,000 miles since I bought the thing, I've had the stalling/loss of power, limp mode, and CEL. Both times I brought it into the dealership, they had to replace the throttle body.

Fast forward about 15k miles (I currently have about 55k miles on the odometer), I'm getting the same stuff again--loss of power, limp mode, CEL turns on.
The dealership tells me the following codes were thrown:

• P2106
• P2110
• P0638

They will have their most experienced tech work on it tomorrow. Based on what I'm reading on the forums, it will probably be throttle body time, but this time out of warranty :mad2:
P2106 and P2110 appear to be caused by P0638 from what I've read about these codes.

Have any of you guys had constant issues like this? What ended up being the long term fix for you? Should I be looking at aftermarket parts (e.g. aftermarket throttle body)?
I feel like I'm suffering from a shotty throttle body design that just keeps failing over and over again. Frequently replacing a throttle body is not regular maintenance! I will be pushing hard on Hyundai to pay for this repair if a new throttle body is needed.

Thanks for sharing your experiences!

 

[andbudzi]

That's very unusual problem.
First you need to try to clean throttle body. Take it off and clean it with carb cleaner from both sides of butterfly, slowly and partially force butterfly plate to open when cleaning.
Reinstall and let yiur car learn zero position (disconnect battery before takin off TB to give ample amount of time to discharge electronics for relearn).

Install catch can to keep your engine clean.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/111389799564

Just get reinforced hose instead of cheep stuff supplied.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Red Raspberry]

To relearn the TB position all that is needed is to turn on the key and wait 10 seconds without touching the gas pedal.

 

[Thumb5]

The wiring needs to be checked, continuity to ecu and check pedal potentiometers see if they are close to 5v combined. Throwing part after part just proves the actual problem wasn't addressed

 

[AKGC]

There's a relearning procedure that needs to be done through the Hyundai GDDS diagnostic computer by the tech.

VWs have the same issue when a TB is replaced.

 

[andbudzi]

There's a relearning procedure that needs to be done through the Hyundai GDDS diagnostic computer by the tech.

VWs have the same issue when a TB is replaced.

I was able to get my bored TB working with key on relearn... Maybe just coincidence, but worth a try before throwing money at it

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[BK2SiC]

Hey guys!

I've been doing lots of reading on here, and never really found anything conclusive for this.

I bought my 2013 3.8 M/T Track new. It's always been stock except for the wheels. Every 20,000 miles since I bought the thing, I've had the stalling/loss of power, limp mode, and CEL. Both times I brought it into the dealership, they had to replace the throttle body.

Fast forward about 15k miles (I currently have about 55k miles on the odometer), I'm getting the same stuff again--loss of power, limp mode, CEL turns on.
The dealership tells me the following codes were thrown:

• P2106
• P2110
• P0638

They will have their most experienced tech work on it tomorrow. Based on what I'm reading on the forums, it will probably be throttle body time, but this time out of warranty <img src="http://www.GenCoupe.com/images/smilies/mad2.gif" border="0" alt="" title=":mad2:" class="inlineimg" />
P2106 and P2110 appear to be caused by P0638 from what I've read about these codes.

Have any of you guys had constant issues like this? What ended up being the long term fix for you? Should I be looking at aftermarket parts (e.g. aftermarket throttle body)?
I feel like I'm suffering from a shotty throttle body design that just keeps failing over and over again. Frequently replacing a throttle body is not regular maintenance! I will be pushing hard on Hyundai to pay for this repair if a new throttle body is needed.

Thanks for sharing your experiences!

I recently had the issue for the first time on my bk2 2.0 , mileage at the time around 30k miles. Took it to the mechanic, he check out the sensor and cleaned my throttle body. Car drove fine for a day, same thing happened again. Went back to him he said replace the TB. So I did. Works perfectly so far , mileage 30430.

 

[Gaijinn]

New TB

According to my Hyundai expert, the ECM key re-learn is all thats needed with a new TB. Having said that, he said he's never seen anything like what you speak of.

Your a 2013 BK2 GDi,...I would venture to say your car for whatever reason is mucking up its valves worse than normal.

BK1 MAFs are the ones which need a periodical TB cleaning, by periodical I would say every 45K.

Now a dirty ass GDi with buildup from day one will foul in 20K, the valves that is.
I'm a 2013 3.8 GDi too.
There is a 5 gallon Meth tank in my trunk! LOL....
I just don't have that problem because I spray pure meth into myTB, IM, valves into the cylinder. Everything is shiny, like new, and will stay that way. I purchased my GEN with 19k she was NA dirty pants too.....I Turbo/meth converted her. I purposefully held down the boost until the meth had time to eat away all the valve buildup (takes about 5K). I've driven her now 20K, she runs better for alot of reasons, but her idle and low rpm response is crystal clear. Smooth as snot, even when shes cold.

**For what its worth my friend he also stated that the Gens tend to accumulate, or store fault codes, even pending fault codes. The "Gulley" so to speak fills up over time, and can induce errors like you mention. Limp modes, etc.

The solution for this is: Torque app, and running diagnostic scans either when warming up or before you shut down. These diagnostic scans and subsequent clear codes commands keep your "Gulley "clean.

Now maybe you do have TB issues, but I can't see the same dam thing you speak of happening over and over again.
If they are going to do this crap off waranty, at least get your valves mechanically cleaned, and get the torque app.

 

[AKGC]

the problems with GDIs....

 

[Cryptonic_Sonic]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll have to look into all these things.

I'm the first owner of this vehicle, always put premium fuel (Shell V Power) in (preferably that non-ethanol stuff). I have the dealer use Mobil 1 full synthetic for all my oil changes (changed every 6mo or 6,000 miles...whichever comes first). I'm not sure why my throttle body gets all gunky so quick.

I did mention to the dealer about the resync to ECU and the tech claims this has been done. I also only have 55,000 miles on the car.

Hyundai's process is to report the codes thrown to "Hyundai Tech" and they inform the tech at the dealership what to do. This time it was to clean the throttle body. The dealer actually set me up with a loaner and got Hyundai to pay for the work. Next step is to contact Hyundai corporate to tell them that trying to resolve a recurring issue by doing the same thing over and over is not a solution at all.

 

[Cryptonic_Sonic]

**For what its worth my friend he also stated that the Gens tend to accumulate, or store fault codes, even pending fault codes. The "Gulley" so to speak fills up over time, and can induce errors like you mention. Limp modes, etc.

The solution for this is: Torque app, and running diagnostic scans either when warming up or before you shut down. These diagnostic scans and subsequent clear codes commands keep your "Gulley "clean.

Now maybe you do have TB issues, but I can't see the same dam thing you speak of happening over and over again.
If they are going to do this crap off waranty, at least get your valves mechanically cleaned, and get the torque app.

Do you have an OBD-II dongle that you recommend to use with iPhone for that Torque app? I've been considering getting something to read the codes from my phone anyway. It saves a trip to Autozone/Advance Auto/etc.

 

[Red Raspberry]

Do you have an OBD-II dongle that you recommend to use with iPhone for that Torque app? I've been considering getting something to read the codes from my phone anyway. It saves a trip to Autozone/Advance Auto/etc.

On sale now. None better.

https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-mxp/

 

[Cryptonic_Sonic]

On sale now. None better.

https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-mxp/

Thanks, bud! I just put in my order! I think this is something most car owners should have and I've been wanting one for a while now.

 

[Gaijinn]

I have the same as Razz,. be careful..........torque app is addictive !!

 

[Justin Davis]

2014 3.8

I had been having some problems with my car recently where Id go to get it into first and the throttle felt inconsistent, like the engine was bogging down and I had to push the accelerator more than usual to get it to respond enough. It wasent in limp mode and once going I could open it up fine, but it felt like I was having to give it more throttle than normal.

I decided to get torque and when I plugged it in it had 6 codes stored. Unfortunately I cleared the codes and lost the list I made but I do know that P2106 and P2110 were definitely on there. Codes havent returned but the issue is still there.

I also noticed that at idle my throttle is reading 11.8. I feel like it should be at zero because it uses the little idle gap but I honestly dont know enough to say for sure.

I recently cleaned my tb as I installed a new intake and spacer. It was pretty clean tbh and these issues were occurring before the cleaning so I dont think I messed anything up. I thought about replacing the sensor but IM not sure if thats possible because it appears to be riveted to the tb and I didnt see anywhere selling them.

 

[Red Raspberry]

The throttle is never at 0 and WOT is around 85%, think more like degrees.

P2160 Vehicle Speed Sensor “B” Circuit Low < signal back to PCM is shorted.

P2110 Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM
P2110 Lime Home Mode - Forced Limited RPM
P2110 Throttle Actuator Control System-Force Limited RPM

 

[Cryptonic_Sonic]

Hey Guys,

I thought I should update on this thread since it's been a while.

I had the check engine light come on again a few times since the dealership last cleaned my throttle body. Same codes: P2106, P2110, P0638
(thanks to Razz for the OBD-II reader recommendation--love that thing)

My service advisor recommended I put in a support claim with Hyundai Corporate to get a field engineer out to look at my car some more. From what I was told, the engineer did some research and this appears to happen only with the manuals and that there was a wiring harness update sometime in 2015. I'd have to look at my paperwork to see what the exact part was called, but I just remember it was a $2,500 wiring part. They replaced the throttle body for good measure as well.

So, in the end, the issue according to the engineer is that it was an outdated wiring harness. We'll see for sure after 15,000 miles if the issue has REALLY been resolved, but I figured I would give an update for you guys to look into.

 

[Cryptonic_Sonic]

Oh yeah, I almost forgot to mention that before they replaced that wiring harness, they also tried replacing something with my pedalboard (didn't resolve the issue).

 

[Jizobizo]

From the shop manual:: Page 957/1234 overall or page 67/145 in Fuel System chapter

ETC module Learning procedure
When installing new ETC module or re-installing it, ETC module learning procedure must be performed.
1. Hold the ignition key or start button at the IG ON position for 5 seconds.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF and then start the engine.

DTC codes (P0638, P2110) might be displayed if ETC module learning procedure was not performed after replacing/re-installing ETC module.