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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys!

I've been doing lots of reading on here, and never really found anything conclusive for this.

I bought my 2013 3.8 M/T Track new. It's always been stock except for the wheels. Every 20,000 miles since I bought the thing, I've had the stalling/loss of power, limp mode, and CEL. Both times I brought it into the dealership, they had to replace the throttle body.

Fast forward about 15k miles (I currently have about 55k miles on the odometer), I'm getting the same stuff again--loss of power, limp mode, CEL turns on.
The dealership tells me the following codes were thrown:
  • P2106
  • P2110
  • P0638

They will have their most experienced tech work on it tomorrow. Based on what I'm reading on the forums, it will probably be throttle body time, but this time out of warranty :mad2:
P2106 and P2110 appear to be caused by P0638 from what I've read about these codes.

Have any of you guys had constant issues like this? What ended up being the long term fix for you? Should I be looking at aftermarket parts (e.g. aftermarket throttle body)?
I feel like I'm suffering from a shotty throttle body design that just keeps failing over and over again. Frequently replacing a throttle body is not regular maintenance! I will be pushing hard on Hyundai to pay for this repair if a new throttle body is needed.

Thanks for sharing your experiences!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll have to look into all these things.

I'm the first owner of this vehicle, always put premium fuel (Shell V Power) in (preferably that non-ethanol stuff). I have the dealer use Mobil 1 full synthetic for all my oil changes (changed every 6mo or 6,000 miles...whichever comes first). I'm not sure why my throttle body gets all gunky so quick.

I did mention to the dealer about the resync to ECU and the tech claims this has been done. I also only have 55,000 miles on the car.

Hyundai's process is to report the codes thrown to "Hyundai Tech" and they inform the tech at the dealership what to do. This time it was to clean the throttle body. The dealer actually set me up with a loaner and got Hyundai to pay for the work. Next step is to contact Hyundai corporate to tell them that trying to resolve a recurring issue by doing the same thing over and over is not a solution at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
**For what its worth my friend he also stated that the Gens tend to accumulate, or store fault codes, even pending fault codes. The "Gulley" so to speak fills up over time, and can induce errors like you mention. Limp modes, etc.

The solution for this is: Torque app, and running diagnostic scans either when warming up or before you shut down. These diagnostic scans and subsequent clear codes commands keep your "Gulley "clean.

Now maybe you do have TB issues, but I can't see the same dam thing you speak of happening over and over again.
If they are going to do this crap off waranty, at least get your valves mechanically cleaned, and get the torque app.
Do you have an OBD-II dongle that you recommend to use with iPhone for that Torque app? I've been considering getting something to read the codes from my phone anyway. It saves a trip to Autozone/Advance Auto/etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey Guys,

I thought I should update on this thread since it's been a while.

I had the check engine light come on again a few times since the dealership last cleaned my throttle body. Same codes: P2106, P2110, P0638
(thanks to Razz for the OBD-II reader recommendation--love that thing)

My service advisor recommended I put in a support claim with Hyundai Corporate to get a field engineer out to look at my car some more. From what I was told, the engineer did some research and this appears to happen only with the manuals and that there was a wiring harness update sometime in 2015. I'd have to look at my paperwork to see what the exact part was called, but I just remember it was a $2,500 wiring part. They replaced the throttle body for good measure as well.

So, in the end, the issue according to the engineer is that it was an outdated wiring harness. We'll see for sure after 15,000 miles if the issue has REALLY been resolved, but I figured I would give an update for you guys to look into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Oh yeah, I almost forgot to mention that before they replaced that wiring harness, they also tried replacing something with my pedalboard (didn't resolve the issue).
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Im currently having problems with my 2015 Hyundai Genesis 3.8 sedan which is exactly what you described. Limp mode, having to give more gas to transition gears, check engine light, ect. Got my car checked out this week and all three of the codes you stated were the exact codes I got back. Just manually replaced the throttle body today and it’s riding a lot better. I’m curious if this was a permanent fix or going to be a reoccurring issue as you expressed. I’ve also had electrical issues ever since I got the car which seemed to go away once I replaced the battery. Have you had any electrical issues as well by chance? Im wondering if the two of them are intertwined with the wiring harness being the culprit. Would love to know the exact work required to fix this issue for good. Thanks and this thread is much appreciated.
I’ll have to dig into my folder full of paperwork. If the dealer listed the wiring harness they replaced, I’ll let ya know. After 9 years of maintenance, that folder is getting pretty thick and it’s not organized well, but should be in there, hahaha

All I can say is that it’s not normal to need to replace the throttle body 3x in 45k miles. My guess is that the bad wiring was messing up the sensors on the throttle body. I’ll have to see when I got that work done, because I have only been driving about 4k miles each year since. Now I have 67k miles on my car, which I think is over the interval that it would be failing right about now.

Just a tip, maybe get a code reader if you don’t already have one. And if you go into limp mode (usually is at very inconvenient times), just turn off the car and start it up again. That’s what got me out of limp mode each time once I figured out it was a recurring issue.
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Would love to know the exact work required to fix this issue for good. Thanks and this thread is much appreciated.
Ok, I dug through 9 years of paperwork just for you! 😁

So, first they tried swapping out the pedal assembly because one of the engineers saw some irregular voltage readings from the accelerator pedal sensor. This is what I have in my paperwork for parts there:

CUSTOMER STATES CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN AND CAR WENT INTO
TOTAL
LIMP MODE,
PLEASE CHECK AND ADVISE
CAUSE:
WAR P.A HELP
32701R00 PEDAL ASSY-ACCELERATOR
1071
W
1
32700-2M500 PEDAL ASSY-ACCELERATOR
(N/C)
(N/C)
32701RQ0 DIAGNOSTIC TOOL OPERATION
1071
W
(N/C)
FC:
PART#:
32700-2M500
We’ll just say that the issue didn’t go away after replacing that. That was in Dec of 2018 with ~55k miles.
Now the part you’ve been waiting for—the wiring assembly that was replaced:

A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS BACK ON WITH SAME CODE PRETAINING TO THROTTLE
BODY CODE, PLEASE GET WITH ROD FROM HMA
TO CHECK AND ADVISE
CAUSE: WAR PER PA DEPT GOODWILL

9140100 CONTROL WIRING ASSY
1071
W
1
91470-2M070 WIRING ASSY-CONTROL
1
35100-3CABO ETC-ACTUATOR
1
35101-3CGAO GASKET-THROTTLE BODY
91401RQ0 DIAGNOSTIC TOOL OPERATION
1071
W
35100R1C BODY ASSY-THROTTLE AND/OR GASKET (LAMBDA)
1071
W
FC:
PART#: 91470-2M070


SCANNED AND PRINTED FREEZE FRAME DATA PER ROD'S REQUEST TO BE
EMAILED TO HIM.
PER FSE ROD'S ADVISEMENT,
REPLACED THROTTLE BODY AND ENGINE CONTROL
WIRING HARNESS. TEST DROVE WITH 3 KEY CYCLES.
OPERATING AS INTENDED
That was done around April 2019 with ~57k miles and they put on about 180 miles on it doing god knows what haha. I’m guessing to see if any codes came back.
I’ll post pictures of the info too in case the copy paste from camera function on my iPhone screwed something up.

Now I wouldn’t go chasing this right away, because that wiring assembly they replaced was over $1k. Sometimes the throttle bodies can be faulty, but if you find yourself having this problem over and over, this is what they did. And now I see that I’ve only put on 10k miles since then, so we’ll see what happens in the next 5k miles 😅

Good luck!

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