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Limp mode is what the P2110 and P2106 indicated. They will go away on their own.

So how do you hold the on button on? Is it cranking for 5 seconds? I usually just push it to on and then release it
 

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Hey Guys,

I thought I should update on this thread since it's been a while.

I had the check engine light come on again a few times since the dealership last cleaned my throttle body. Same codes: P2106, P2110, P0638
(thanks to Razz for the OBD-II reader recommendation--love that thing)

My service advisor recommended I put in a support claim with Hyundai Corporate to get a field engineer out to look at my car some more. From what I was told, the engineer did some research and this appears to happen only with the manuals and that there was a wiring harness update sometime in 2015. I'd have to look at my paperwork to see what the exact part was called, but I just remember it was a $2,500 wiring part. They replaced the throttle body for good measure as well.

So, in the end, the issue according to the engineer is that it was an outdated wiring harness. We'll see for sure after 15,000 miles if the issue has REALLY been resolved, but I figured I would give an update for you guys to look into.
Im currently having problems with my 2015 Hyundai Genesis 3.8 sedan which is exactly what you described. Limp mode, having to give more gas to transition gears, check engine light, ect. Got my car checked out this week and all three of the codes you stated were the exact codes I got back. Just manually replaced the throttle body today and it’s riding a lot better. I’m curious if this was a permanent fix or going to be a reoccurring issue as you expressed. I’ve also had electrical issues ever since I got the car which seemed to go away once I replaced the battery. Have you had any electrical issues as well by chance? Im wondering if the two of them are intertwined with the wiring harness being the culprit. Would love to know the exact work required to fix this issue for good. Thanks and this thread is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Im currently having problems with my 2015 Hyundai Genesis 3.8 sedan which is exactly what you described. Limp mode, having to give more gas to transition gears, check engine light, ect. Got my car checked out this week and all three of the codes you stated were the exact codes I got back. Just manually replaced the throttle body today and it’s riding a lot better. I’m curious if this was a permanent fix or going to be a reoccurring issue as you expressed. I’ve also had electrical issues ever since I got the car which seemed to go away once I replaced the battery. Have you had any electrical issues as well by chance? Im wondering if the two of them are intertwined with the wiring harness being the culprit. Would love to know the exact work required to fix this issue for good. Thanks and this thread is much appreciated.
I’ll have to dig into my folder full of paperwork. If the dealer listed the wiring harness they replaced, I’ll let ya know. After 9 years of maintenance, that folder is getting pretty thick and it’s not organized well, but should be in there, hahaha

All I can say is that it’s not normal to need to replace the throttle body 3x in 45k miles. My guess is that the bad wiring was messing up the sensors on the throttle body. I’ll have to see when I got that work done, because I have only been driving about 4k miles each year since. Now I have 67k miles on my car, which I think is over the interval that it would be failing right about now.

Just a tip, maybe get a code reader if you don’t already have one. And if you go into limp mode (usually is at very inconvenient times), just turn off the car and start it up again. That’s what got me out of limp mode each time once I figured out it was a recurring issue.
Good luck!
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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For a while my car would pop through the intake and go into limp mode. Usually while the cruse control was on. But I learned to just shift to neutral and cycle the ignition. This was when I first went to the bored out TB. I went back to stock for a while then put the bored out one back on. Been great for the last 8 years or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Would love to know the exact work required to fix this issue for good. Thanks and this thread is much appreciated.
Ok, I dug through 9 years of paperwork just for you! 😁

So, first they tried swapping out the pedal assembly because one of the engineers saw some irregular voltage readings from the accelerator pedal sensor. This is what I have in my paperwork for parts there:

CUSTOMER STATES CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN AND CAR WENT INTO
TOTAL
LIMP MODE,
PLEASE CHECK AND ADVISE
CAUSE:
WAR P.A HELP
32701R00 PEDAL ASSY-ACCELERATOR
1071
W
1
32700-2M500 PEDAL ASSY-ACCELERATOR
(N/C)
(N/C)
32701RQ0 DIAGNOSTIC TOOL OPERATION
1071
W
(N/C)
FC:
PART#:
32700-2M500
We’ll just say that the issue didn’t go away after replacing that. That was in Dec of 2018 with ~55k miles.
Now the part you’ve been waiting for—the wiring assembly that was replaced:

A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS BACK ON WITH SAME CODE PRETAINING TO THROTTLE
BODY CODE, PLEASE GET WITH ROD FROM HMA
TO CHECK AND ADVISE
CAUSE: WAR PER PA DEPT GOODWILL

9140100 CONTROL WIRING ASSY
1071
W
1
91470-2M070 WIRING ASSY-CONTROL
1
35100-3CABO ETC-ACTUATOR
1
35101-3CGAO GASKET-THROTTLE BODY
91401RQ0 DIAGNOSTIC TOOL OPERATION
1071
W
35100R1C BODY ASSY-THROTTLE AND/OR GASKET (LAMBDA)
1071
W
FC:
PART#: 91470-2M070


SCANNED AND PRINTED FREEZE FRAME DATA PER ROD'S REQUEST TO BE
EMAILED TO HIM.
PER FSE ROD'S ADVISEMENT,
REPLACED THROTTLE BODY AND ENGINE CONTROL
WIRING HARNESS. TEST DROVE WITH 3 KEY CYCLES.
OPERATING AS INTENDED
That was done around April 2019 with ~57k miles and they put on about 180 miles on it doing god knows what haha. I’m guessing to see if any codes came back.
I’ll post pictures of the info too in case the copy paste from camera function on my iPhone screwed something up.

Now I wouldn’t go chasing this right away, because that wiring assembly they replaced was over $1k. Sometimes the throttle bodies can be faulty, but if you find yourself having this problem over and over, this is what they did. And now I see that I’ve only put on 10k miles since then, so we’ll see what happens in the next 5k miles 😅

Good luck!

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