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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up a white 2013 3.8 track with 92k on it. Looking though the forums to find out as much info as I can. Planning to clean the valves, throttle body, trans and diff fluid change, rear sway bar links, spark plugs. I just replaced the cabin filter and now the blower is sounding a lot louder. Any other things I should look for or do considering the miles. I'm not sure how much the maintenance was kept up with but the car is pretty clean.
 

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The only way to clean valves at your mileage is via electric drill and brushes
Did mine at 20k and installed catch can


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Discussion Starter #4
Congrats on the new purchase. I have a 2011 3.8 track m/t. Any future mods in mind?
Thanks. Not at this time. I still have a bunch of research to do. I'm leaning towards catch can first. I'd like to do something to the exhaust that keeps close to stock levels until you hit the upper rpm range.

The only way to clean valves at your mileage is via electric drill and brushes
Did mine at 20k and installed catch can
I have it feeling it's going to be quite time consuming unless someone took care of them. Any quick way of getting a borescope inside to see what I'm dealing with?
 

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Thanks. Not at this time. I still have a bunch of research to do. I'm leaning towards catch can first. I'd like to do something to the exhaust that keeps close to stock levels until you hit the upper rpm range.







I have it feeling it's going to be quite time consuming unless someone took care of them. Any quick way of getting a borescope inside to see what I'm dealing with?
Take off your upper IM off, change spark plugs and use boroscope to check how much gunk you have.
You can get a horoscope camera that hooks up to your phone for $20

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Discussion Starter #6
I ran some techron and BK44 cleaner through the gas. I picked up a HF walnut blaster and cleaned the valves. They were pretty caked but not as bad as I thought. I used a can of CRC valve cleaner before hand through the throttle body. You can tell that stuff was already working on loosening it up. Then I installed a catch can and replaced the plugs. I didn't notice any power improvements after. The car seems to be running slow, the best 0-60 I can get is 5.9 . That is a whole second slower then I was expecting, I'm kinda bummed a little.

I've been trying to diagnose a high speed vibration and low speed clunk in the rear. After I fix those things and change out the fluids I should be good to go.

Upgrades in the works.
TROS - already shipped
Alphaspeed ECU & TCU tune - still researching
CBT cat back and probably ark H pipe - Looking for deep tones with little to no rasp or drone
Whiteline rear sway bar - there is a clunk in the back so I thought this may be a good place to start
Something with the suspension - the car is pushed hard on winding back roads so I'm looking into options

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed.
 

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Had a lot of vibration at 75mph.
Changed rotors and sanded down mating surface on the hubs (mating to rotor), did road force balance - no more vibration.

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Discussion Starter #8
Had a lot of vibration at 75mph.
Changed rotors and sanded down mating surface on the hubs (mating to rotor), did road force balance - no more vibration.

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Good to know, I was thinking of inspecting the brakes. Already had RF done and the numbers are low. One shop said a wheel had a very slight bend to it . The dealer said all 4 wheels have very slight bend hop to them. I'm going to see what a wheel specialists thinks. Picked up a used driveshaft to test out.
 

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as mentioned before if it was not taken care of those valves will be vary dirty and will need a manual cleaning, after that you can use crc about every oil change or every other, this helps clean the light build up when it’s not too bad, and an oil catch can is a must to help greatly minimize the carbon build up, it’s always the back breather hose that goes into the upper intake manifold, i learned this while taking apart the engine and seeing the oil build up in there, best of luck to your build man, it’s a great car and have loved mine !
 

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I ran some techron and BK44 cleaner through the gas. I picked up a HF walnut blaster and cleaned the valves. They were pretty caked but not as bad as I thought. I used a can of CRC valve cleaner before hand through the throttle body. You can tell that stuff was already working on loosening it up. Then I installed a catch can and replaced the plugs. I didn't notice any power improvements after. The car seems to be running slow, the best 0-60 I can get is 5.9 . That is a whole second slower then I was expecting, I'm kinda bummed a little.

I've been trying to diagnose a high speed vibration and low speed clunk in the rear. After I fix those things and change out the fluids I should be good to go.

Upgrades in the works.
TROS - already shipped
Alphaspeed ECU & TCU tune - still researching
CBT cat back and probably ark H pipe - Looking for deep tones with little to no rasp or drone
Whiteline rear sway bar - there is a clunk in the back so I thought this may be a good place to start
Something with the suspension - the car is pushed hard on winding back roads so I'm looking into options

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcomed.
that 0-60 time is quite slow for the car, but again the stock tires aren’t good and are a little narrow, a little wider and better tires will help you launch harder and get that ~5 flat time, best i’ve done is a 5.4 on A/S tires, that’s with a tune, i can’t do hard launches because even at 2k launch if i don’t feather the throttle i spin, so i’m in definite need of wider and stickier tires, and as for the no rasp, that’ll be hard to come by unless you keep the cats, i have a magnaflow system and the entire exhaust is catless, sounds beautiful but raps 2.5k-3k then it just goes away after those rpms and rasps even less one the car is warmed up , on wot it’s barely noticeable but to me i kinda like it because the deep tone with minimal rasp somehow works for me since it’s not over whelming and barely there unlike hondas who put fart cans lmao a good set up i’ve heard on stock headers with cats was an ark dual exhaust with test pipes, taking out the secondary cats will make the car much louder and sound better, after taking off the main cats it’s the same thing, louder, i had to keep my cat back though because i couldn’t bare the sound of a catless straight piped engine, my car is noticeable at wot and smooth and low when i’m not on it
 
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