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I wanna go fast!
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Discussion Starter #1
Whats happening folks... So I have a slight issue with my 2012 2.0 Rspec.

I recently picked the car up from auction and it needed some TLC, minor things... got it buttoned up and running and low and behold, no brakes.

The pedal hits the floor when pressed; no biggie must be air in the system, right ? So, I bled the brakes with a pressure bleeder in sequence: RR - LF - RL - RF and then threw new pads on it while I was in there... Pedal still hits the floor. So typically if this is the case its a bad master cylinder. So I went ahead and replaced the MC and and booster then re-bled the brakes in the same order for a 2nd time... Pedal still hits the floor and the RR & LF brakes ONLY apply. So I grabbed a scan tool from work and bled the HECU (ABS module) thinking that air may be trapped in it and checked for codes; re-bled the system for a 3rd time... Pedal still hits the floor and RR & LF only apply. So, maybe its a bad HECU..? So I replaced it, bled it with the computer again and then re-bled the brakes AGAIN for a 4th time... Brake pedal hits the floor and only RR & LF brakes apply...

Now I know for a fact that a braking system is not this damn complicated, nor should it be this difficult to figure out, however, I've beat my head over and over on these damn brakes and I'm getting the same result...

All the lines are intact (nothing crimped or pinched) there is ZERO air in the system and nothing is leaking, as I've bled them 4 times now, and the fluid is crystal clear w/ zero air bubbles

Has anyone else had this issue ? - or - dealt with anything like this before - or - is there any on-going issue with the brembos on the GC ?

the only thing left I can think of is the caliper(s) may be ceased and need rebuilt, however, I highly doubt 2 calipers took a sh*t at the same time, but I'm not ruling it out either.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Stewb.
 

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Have you tried bleeding them the old fashioned way, with one guy pressing the brake pedal while you loosen the bleeder screw. If fluid is getting to the caliper, then most likely it's the calipers. If no fluid is getting to the caliper then you may have a collapsed brake hose, pinched line, or bad proportioning valve.
 

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I wanna go fast!
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469 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Have you tried bleeding them the old fashioned way, with one guy pressing the brake pedal while you loosen the bleeder screw. If fluid is getting to the caliper, then most likely it's the calipers. If no fluid is getting to the caliper then you may have a collapsed brake hose, pinched line, or bad proportioning valve.

Yea I definitely have fluid to every caliper and to both bleeders ontop of each Brembo caliper... I might have to try the old school way; the pressure bleeder def pulled thru all of the new fluid and expelled all of the air in the system and there was a TON of air in it... but it might be worth a shot doing it the old school way too...

As far as the lines go, I’ve checked, double checked and triple checked every single one. None of them are damaged, crimped, pinched, leaking, etc. they are all intact and completely fine.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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With the Brembos be sure to do the outside bleeder first , then the inside one.

I can't remember when but Hyundai also went to an electronic brake balance thingy. My 2010 does not have that.
 

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I wanna go fast!
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469 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
With the Brembos be sure to do the outside bleeder first , then the inside one.

I can't remember when but Hyundai also went to an electronic brake balance thingy. My 2010 does not have that.
Yep did that too and in order: RR / LF / LR RF

I’ve bled them 4 times and still the same result... soft pedal and RF & LR still not applying
 

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Hello. Did you ever rectify this problem? My 2010 2.0T/Auto with Brembos is doing the exact same thing. Changed the HECU all brakes are applying properly. If you stab the brakes quickly at speed they grab like they should and keep pressure. If you come up to a stop light normally with little pressure they go to the floor.
 

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Hello. Did you ever rectify this problem? My 2010 2.0T/Auto with Brembos is doing the exact same thing. Changed the HECU all brakes are applying properly. If you stab the brakes quickly at speed they grab like they should and keep pressure. If you come up to a stop light normally with little pressure they go to the floor.
Do your rpms change at idle when you press the brakes? If so, then it's likely the brake booster leaking vacuum
 

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Well

If the MC is replaced and both sections of the MC are properly sealed and don't let the fluid go past it, then it has to be somewhere in ABS pump. My suggestion is this,

- build some custom tools to close and test the lines
- disconnect all of them and pressure test all of them.
- pressure test MC


If above is OK then it has to be ABS pump
 

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Premium Member
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14,908 Posts
Well

If the MC is replaced and both sections of the MC are properly sealed and don't let the fluid go past it, then it has to be somewhere in ABS pump. My suggestion is this,

- build some custom tools to close and test the lines
- disconnect all of them and pressure test all of them.
- pressure test MC


If above is OK then it has to be ABS pump
Nope...

You would normally us an in depth scan tool to see if any of the auxiliary modules are giving off an error. (Most cheap scan tools only scan for engine errors)
Then activate the ABS module by scan tool and see if any errors occur.

First thing I would do is disconnect the battery for an hour then connect it, to reset everything.
Then bleed the brakes. If no fluid comes out on 1 or more of the lines, then it's likely the ABS module. If all the lines, then likely the ABS module and/or the master cylinder.

If it brakes, but you have to put the pedal to the floor, that usually means it's a brake booster, or master cylinder issue.
In my experience, 80% of the time with this symptom, it's the brake booster, or leaking vacuum line going to the brake booster.

There is a slim chance that caliper(s) maybe are seized

Also pinched brake hard lines.

Opening up the brake system (besides bleeding) would be the last thing to do, and usually it's only done to replace a part.
Brake fluid is basically paint stripper if you leave on a painted part.
 
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