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Discussion Starter #21
I would pull codes. Sometimes, the CEL doesn't turn on, or it could be the CEL light not working.
So I did run codes and when I had the solenoid unplugged going to the recirc it pulled a code but when I had the WG solenoid unplugged it didn't pull any codes. I ran a pretty in depth scan as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Unplug them again and start the car two times. Then scan for codes. Some codes need two run cycles to trigger.
So I know I added about the solenoids but theoretically if those solenoids are good (They will be replaced tonight) what next can I do? Is it possible the turbo is bad? I would think that if anything was wrong it would throw a code. Just trying to ask what my next course of action would be after I replaced the 3 main possible issues, recirc and the two solenoids
 

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So I know I added about the solenoids but theoretically if those solenoids are good (They will be replaced tonight) what next can I do? Is it possible the turbo is bad? I would think that if anything was wrong it would throw a code. Just trying to ask what my next course of action would be after I replaced the 3 main possible issues, recirc and the two solenoids
do a boost leak test.

You can youtube it.

Something that just came to me now, is the pcv valve could be bad, but you would be able to tell with a boost leak test.

I wouldn't want you to throw money at the problem until the cause it identified.
 

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So I know I added about the solenoids but theoretically if those solenoids are good (They will be replaced tonight) what next can I do? Is it possible the turbo is bad? I would think that if anything was wrong it would throw a code. Just trying to ask what my next course of action would be after I replaced the 3 main possible issues, recirc and the two solenoids
Still unplug them and start the car twice. Just to see that it registers the codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Sad news, new solenoids didn't do anything.. Now I haven't technically driven the car since I got the replacement parts on, but I know how the car sounds when it starts up cold and it stays at a about 2k rpm and slowly drops till its at a decent temp but right now it just starts and goes to idle and once i press the gas i dont hear the turbo spool which i normally would. Im going to test drive it in the morning but i dont feel its made any difference.
 

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Sad news, new solenoids didn't do anything.. Now I haven't technically driven the car since I got the replacement parts on, but I know how the car sounds when it starts up cold and it stays at a about 2k rpm and slowly drops till its at a decent temp but right now it just starts and goes to idle and once i press the gas i dont hear the turbo spool which i normally would. Im going to test drive it in the morning but i dont feel its made any difference.
I would suggest this;
- Pull off the DV/BOV (im assuming you are stock) and inspect the membrane
- Manually try moving WG, does it operate?
- Get a hand held vacuum / pressure pump i.e. YT-0674 and test the action of your WG
- Do boost leak test or at least check your EVAP and PCV vlve
- Get some boost logs - what are you actually getting according to torque
- Check cables going form ECU to Solenoids for continuity

Next in line would be
- testing the TIP and MAP pressure readings,
Remove the sensors form piping and manifold, use hand held pump to apply pressure and compare that pressure with what ECU is showing
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So I ran the car around the block. Now before I post the codes little back story about 3 or so years ago my timing chain stretched and jumped teeth and caused the car to be off on timing. Got a new chain and got it fixed. I don't bounce off rev limiter and I really don't drive my car that hard and when it did jump 3 years ago the turbo still spooled and gave me big power on the top end. Now with that being said I got two codes P0014 and P0299. I've looked them up and wondering what you think. My next plan is to look into WG as that's the only thing shy of the turbo I haven't replaces and check for boost leaks. Pretty crazy my cars at 105k miles and when this happened I hadn't been under the hood in oh idk many months
 

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Just to be clear you are getting this codes now right?
damn i'm 120k need to look up into my timing chain soon

My first suggestion would be - measure the timing sensor resistance and check the plugs.
Next do a cylinder leak test (this is different than compression test but you will need an air compressor for this)

maybe your tension-er gave up completely ?
Any rattle sounds or anything ?
 

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Just to be clear you are getting this codes now right?
damn i'm 120k need to look up into my timing chain soon

My first suggestion would be - measure the timing sensor resistance and check the plugs.
Next do a cylinder leak test (this is different than compression test but you will need an air compressor for this)

maybe your tension-er gave up completely ?
Any rattle sounds or anything ?
The tensioner uses a spring, assisted by oil pressure when under engine load. The tensioner comes out pretty far; far enough that you wouldn't be able to tell without doing a proper timing check.
The cam sensor is a hal effect sensor towards the back of the head, and doesn't use resistance to give a reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Just to be clear you are getting this codes now right?
damn i'm 120k need to look up into my timing chain soon

My first suggestion would be - measure the timing sensor resistance and check the plugs.
Next do a cylinder leak test (this is different than compression test but you will need an air compressor for this)

maybe your tension-er gave up completely ?
Any rattle sounds or anything ?
tension-er's were actually replaced when I replaced my timing chain as well. I think im going to do an oil change, my oil was pretty low and I only added a quart to it. Maybe that will take care of the P0014 code and then see if the P0299 code stays then ill replace the WG if thats the code I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
it wont...
AKGC is right on the sensors... try cylinder leak test
So I guess the weird thing is that on low RPM the car drives fine like if i wasnt hammering it and not making boost only time it struggles is when it gets past 4k RPM is when it becomes extremely sluggish. Car starts on 1st rotation of starter, I dont have to crank it forever, the motor sounds just as healthy as it did when the turbo was working just without the sound of the turbo spooling.
 

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this will be hard to diagnose over network - sorry but will nee to go through each system one by one.

Are you sure the WG arm is working ok and the membrane inside is not ripped out?
Relay start with getting small yato vacuum/pressure pump and test each element.

Im figthing lost boost and that small tool really helped a lot
 

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Discussion Starter #36
this will be hard to diagnose over network - sorry but will nee to go through each system one by one.

Are you sure the WG arm is working ok and the membrane inside is not ripped out?
Relay start with getting small yato vacuum/pressure pump and test each element.

Im figthing lost boost and that small tool really helped a lot
I'm going to try a cylinder pressure test with a loaner from AutoZone and then I do have a small vacuum pump that I can use to test vacuum. I took off the WG and I can move the arm back and forth just fine not sure how the inside works but I guess my vacuum pump will help diagnose that
 

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So I guess the weird thing is that on low RPM the car drives fine like if i wasnt hammering it and not making boost only time it struggles is when it gets past 4k RPM is when it becomes extremely sluggish. Car starts on 1st rotation of starter, I dont have to crank it forever, the motor sounds just as healthy as it did when the turbo was working just without the sound of the turbo spooling.
You should have said this earlier, it sounds like a spark gap issues.
 

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I can check that tonight
if gapped too much, then spark blowout issue is likely.

DON'T go by the engine recommended gap. The BK1 documentation was initially wrong. Always go by sparkplug model recommended gap.
(never get autolites. Denso and NGK are the only recommended spark plugs)
 

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Discussion Starter #40
if gapped too much, then spark blowout issue is likely.

DON'T go by the engine recommended gap. The BK1 documentation was initially wrong. Always go by sparkplug model recommended gap.
(never get autolites. Denso and NGK are the only recommended spark plugs)
Plugs were replaced somewhere around October I wanna say. I was having issues with clutch and for some reason i thought it was spark or engine related so I got new caps and springs for my coil packs and I got new spark plugs and gaped them. Dont remember the gap but had been running good ever since then. But its a 10 minute job if that, to double check them
 
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