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I don't think the issue is the spark plugs as the issue would have occurred much sooner and my idle would be rough.
You are forgetting that boost factors into ignition.

The idle would be fine. I have had my densos gapped to 0.04 just to see what would happen. Ran fine staying under 3500 rpm, but over, it would lose torque and was a struggle for it to accelerate.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You are forgetting that boost factors into ignition.

The idle would be fine. I have had my densos gapped to 0.04 just to see what would happen. Ran fine staying under 3500 rpm, but over, it would lose torque and was a struggle for it to accelerate.
I will check the plugs but again, the issue started one day and does not occur all the time. And to my knowledge incorrectly gaped plugs would make the drive quality garbage not completely get rid of throttle response.
 

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Did it do this before you had the top end apart for the timing chain?

WC East or Henderson?
No the issue started a month after the timing chain check so I find it unlikely that that was the issue I just didn't want to completely rule it out.

And I Graduated from WC Rustin this year
I am thinking it may have been related to the top end work. Just too much of a coincidence.

I didnt even know there was a third public HS. I am a WC East grad.. class of '85.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Did it do this before you had the top end apart for the timing chain?

WC East or Henderson?
No the issue started a month after the timing chain check so I find it unlikely that that was the issue I just didn't want to completely rule it out.

And I Graduated from WC Rustin this year
I am thinking it may have been related to the top end work. Just too much of a coincidence.

I didnt even know there was a third public HS. I am a WC East grad.. class of '85.
Top end work could be a factor, but I had it done about a month before the issue started happening.

And Rustin was built in 2008 so its relatively new.
 

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Oh also, when you do all the IM work, while your there you might as well replace the plugs if they are anywhere near 15K,(your in the neighborhood anyway) and make sure to replace the PCV valve.(use oem). Again vac related issues cause all kinds of gremlins.
 

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Omg I am having the same problem. And I know this seams crazy but I also Changed my tail lights to led. Did you figure out your problem. Im just starting to diagnose
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Omg I am having the same problem. And I know this seams crazy but I also Changed my tail lights to led. Did you figure out your problem. I’️m just starting to diagnose
I recently changed the throttle body and PCV valve. The throttle body helped the issue but didn't completely fix it. I still get the occasional no response when going into first but its not nearly as bad as it was. I'm now thinking it may be the ecu or some wiring somewhere that is fried, especially since you also replaced your tailights.
 

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I have also taken apart the tb and cleaned it and it seemed to stop the problem. But then it came back. I just recently bought the car for my son and he is on a permit so it doesn’t get driven every day. The car is also on coil overs. Has a pro exhaust system. And has had the tune changed. I’m just mentioning this in case we have done any similar mods. Also the tpms light is on because we have changed rims and tires for the winter. And has a cold air intake. I think that’s everything.
 

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In the back of my mind I was thinking about the yaw sensor but I’m not sure if it shuts off throttle when triggered. Going to stop at the dealer and see if they can give any input.
 

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The tpms shouldn't cause an issue.

I've recently fixed an on going issue I had that didn't have the same symptoms, but can see the cause of my issue, causing a similar issue to yours.

My 2.0T has had an issue with the MAP sensors and throttlebody correlation error for the last 3~4 years.
I inspected the wiring going up to these, and found cracks in the insulation to the MAP sensors wiring. I used a hobby knife to remove the insulation and cleaned the copper with flux and tinned them with solder, then reinsulated it with a tiny bit of liquid electrical tape stuff.
 

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As soon as it warms up I was going to go thru all the electrical sensor wires, cut the tape off inspect and re tape I feel it has to be something stupid. I Feel like it might be a bad connection because it happens coming off a dead stop. But what drives me crazy is it never happens after first gear. I can slam second twist the car sideways and nothing. no problems. but I go to leave from a traffic light no matter how easy I come off and you step on the gas and its nothing but idle.
 

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ok so took the car out last night was good for a while then bam left a light and it happened 3 times. then the next light same thing. took the car home. unplugged the ecu tightened the battery cables. unplugged every senor I could reach in front of me and plugged in and out 3 or 4 times and plugged back in. then drove. I beat the **** out of the car and nothing happened. drove for an hour ad than bam again. and again and again. if I just drop the clutch normally it happens. if I ride the clutch it does not happen. almost seems like the jolting of the car is causing the issue. definitely warming up plays a affect. or maybe the car only does it when ecu goes into closed loop and starts to read sensors. But definitely making me crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
ok so took the car out last night was good for a while then bam left a light and it happened 3 times. then the next light same thing. took the car home. unplugged the ecu tightened the battery cables. unplugged every senor I could reach in front of me and plugged in and out 3 or 4 times and plugged back in. then drove. I beat the **** out of the car and nothing happened.
drove for an hour ad than bam again. and again and again. if I just drop the clutch normally it happens. if I ride the clutch it does not happen. almost seems like the jolting of the car is causing the issue. definitely warming up plays a affect. or maybe the car only does it when ecu goes into closed loop and starts to read sensors. But definitely making me crazy.
I recently came home for spring break and drove the car for the entire week. Issue happened a couple times after I drove the car for an extended period of time. I'm worried because I'm not home to actively diagnose the issue and I need to bring the car over to college in april to get my stuff back home but im not sure it will make it. I'm thinking this is a manual only issue so im wondering what components could be causing the issue that are not in an automatic. Have you gone to the dealer at all to try and get the issue fixed?
 

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You need to do some data monitoring. Torque with the EX Advantage for Hyundai can see what you need and log it.

When it is not responding what does the Absolute Throttle Position say, same for the two gas pedal sensors. On the pedal they are not 1:1 inverted values. And look to see what the commanded AFR (lambda) is when it not responding. Absolute Load is another. It will tell you if the MAP is showing a good value.

I use to get the limp mode when accelerating from low engine speeds while the car was at highway speed. It would limit the rpms to 1300. All you had to do to clear it was cycle the ignition. It would give some Throttle Memory error. This has not happened though in the last 6 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You need to do some data monitoring. Torque with the EX Advantage for Hyundai can see what you need and log it.

When it is not responding what does the Absolute Throttle Position say, same for the two gas pedal sensors. On the pedal they are not 1:1 inverted values. And look to see what the commanded AFR (lambda) is when it not responding. Absolute Load is another. It will tell you if the MAP is showing a good value.

I use to get the limp mode when accelerating from low engine speeds while the car was at highway speed. It would limit the rpms to 1300. All you had to do to clear it was cycle the ignition. It would give some Throttle Memory error. This has not happened though in the last 6 years.
Thanks for the info, I'll definitely get on that when I get back home. I honestly wish my car was just going into limp mode then it would be easier to diagnose the issue.
 

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Thanks for the info, I'll definitely get on that when I get back home. I honestly wish my car was just going into limp mode then it would be easier to diagnose the issue.
I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!
Same thing was happening with my 2010 Genesis Coupe 3.8L GT Manual. I also have the Spec D sequential tailights and it turns out this is not a coincidence.

When it would start cutting throttle, i would force it to keep getting worse by doing it over and over again, and i then unplugged the tailights and it was perfectly fine! So, there is something messed up inside the wiring of the tailights, and i will be getting mine checked out this week by a automotive accessory company in my city. will let you know how it goes, hopefully not too much has to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!
Same thing was happening with my 2010 Genesis Coupe 3.8L GT Manual. I also have the Spec D sequential tailights and it turns out this is not a coincidence.

When it would start cutting throttle, i would force it to keep getting worse by doing it over and over again, and i then unplugged the tailights and it was perfectly fine! So, there is something messed up inside the wiring of the tailights, and i will be getting mine checked out this week by a automotive accessory company in my city. will let you know how it goes, hopefully not too much has to be done.
Awesome!!!, That would make sense. I'm wondering if the lights are taking power from the drive by wire system; thus, causing a power cut from to the throttle response. Or possibly if the battery cannot support the power required for both the throttle body and lights. As said beofre, I replaced my throttle body a little while back which greatly helped the issue, causing it to occur much less frequently. I'm also wondering if the lights may slowly damage the throttle body over time. Still many questions to be answered. Please let me know what you find out!
 

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Awesome!!!, That would make sense. I'm wondering if the lights are taking power from the drive by wire system; thus, causing a power cut from to the throttle response. Or possibly if the battery cannot support the power required for both the throttle body and lights. As said beofre, I replaced my throttle body a little while back which greatly helped the issue, causing it to occur much less frequently. I'm also wondering if the lights may slowly damage the throttle body over time. Still many questions to be answered. Please let me know what you find out!
My current fix is to just use factory tailights. I am currently talking with Spec D and GenRacer(the distributor that I bought the tailights from) and they think it's the tailights themselves, but I think it's something else.

Back in 2013, genesis coupes had a recall for a brake switch that would malfunction and not send enough power when braking to the brake lights. I think that the tailights might be programmed on the old brake switch that got recalled and is now messing with the new one. For me, it only happens at night when the lights are on all the time, so maybe the car thinks that you have the brakes on and doesnt want you to start moving with them on, so it cuts throttle response for a few seconds. One thing I also figured out is that if you leave it in gear for a couple of seconds while you dont have throttle response, it just let's you start driving. So if it happens again, leave it in gear (I know its sketchy af) then it should just kick back in.
 
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