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Took me about 4 hours or so, all together.how long did it take?I used the bolt and tapped around it with a hammer at the same time. You can't pull that hard with the bolt because it's rubber mounted... But worked like a charm doing both.
I believe the diff was made with only3 mounts to allow play and save the drive-train from snapping.I came to conclusion that this mod is not needed and may cause more damage to the car when the part goes bad. I got lucky that it snapped off clean instead doing more damages that I have seen in other cars.
If anyone wants to buy My used throughdown rear differential mount let me know.. I have brand complete new one and used one with missing bolt.
The Original poster did 4 times.Can any one that have done this confirm if it is safe to do this? Maybe it stiffs the diff much?
elboss Go to the Nitrous on a GDI 3.8 thread and you will see pic's of my nitrous Gen Coupe build .In the pic's you will see the sleeve and OEM C- Bushing installed in the 4th bushing location .Many on this forum know of my build and for some reason do not pass on info to other members that are inquiring about mods that are in fact on my build .Go to post # 306 .I would not use solid bushings on a street driven car , More stiffer than OEM yes but not solid (Diff Bushing),the sub frame I would go with solid sub frame risers bushings only .Can any one that have done this confirm if it is safe to do this? Maybe it stiffs the diff much?
The 4th bushing setup looks clean.elboss Go to the Nitrous on a GDI 3.8 thread and you will see pic's of my nitrous Gen Coupe build .In the pic's you will see the sleeve and OEM C- Bushing installed in the 4th bushing location .Many on this forum know of my build and for some reason do not pass on info to other members that are inquiring about mods that are in fact on my build .Go to post # 306 .I would not use solid bushings on a street driven car , More stiffer than OEM yes but not solid (Diff Bushing),the sub frame I would go with solid sub frame risers bushings only .
Loosen the sway bar ,traced O.D of sleeve and grind out when close to sleeve O.D dimension use a metal bur bit ,final fitting of sleeve will be with 120 grit paddle/flapper style wheel or stone bit .No removing of sub frame .I made (machined the sleeve myself .Sleeve dimension is ,1-1/2 inch long,3.1605 '' I.D and a wall thickness of .090 to .100'' +O.D of 3.3405 to 3.3605 inches .Take these to a machinest and he can machine the sleeve out in short time .Mild steel or chrome alloy steel is fine . Tig weld in place .The 4th bushing setup looks clean.
Did you weld the sleeve in place or did you remove the subframe?
Do you have a part number for the sleeve?
Make sure you get the upgraded OEM bolt ,not the BS re-called bolt (Grade 10)FWIW here are the OE part numbers
554952M000 - BUSHING-CROSSMEMBER MOUNTING5
554193M000 - BOLT
1351012006K - WASHER-PLAIN
1360212006K - WASHER-SPRING
Ditto.I measured the outter part of the mount and it was 3 1/8
Maybe a 3 inch would work and then go from there. Shaving a little at a time till you can press it in. If you go under there and look at both holes and compare, you'll know exactly where to stop.
straight forward .For those who would want a second rear bushing mount . I made a mild steel sleeve with .100'' wall thickness .The I.D. was a average that I got from the factory OEM bushing O.D. The length was the same as the bushing . I traced the bushing O.D. onto the sub-frame and cut the hole to size .Welded the sleeve in place (be careful not to warp the sleeve).Inserted the bushing part 62466/part # 554952m000-the bolt is #55446 ,use off the shelf washer & lock washer .Anyone in the Houston area ,I have 2 extra sleeves made if anyone wants one .Free .
I assume the part I posted is the upgraded one as it was what Hyundai shows for the current bolt.Make sure you get the upgraded OEM bolt ,not the BS re-called bolt (Grade 10)