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shorttrack
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I used bolts from my shop at work (turbine company) ,our grade 10 was heavier and better machined than the OEM bolts I changed .Ask the Hyundai Stealership if those are the upgraded ones .The OEM was supposed to be grade 10 but are very cheap / porous .
 

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shorttrack
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The P/N you have is the original # for all of the diff bolts even before the recall came out , not sure if Hyundai just replaced the bolt inventory and kept the same P/N .Ask them would be best or source the bolts from another vendor .
 

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shorttrack
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I assume the part I posted is the upgraded one as it was what Hyundai shows for the current bolt.

I just got the parts in from Fourgreen. And it is the metric 10 grade bolt. How is the recall bolt graded?

The OE bushing outside diameter is 3.15" or 80mm
I mic'ed the bushing in 6 locations(truly 3 locations - A,B andC ) on the O.D. ,The aluminum shell is not perfectly round , my average O.D. was 3.1605 '' I'm sure QA of this part is sketchy so your should do an a/b/c O.D mic'ing and add the 3 measurements and divide by 3 ,this will be you O.D of the bushing shell .Add a .0005''-.002'' to the I.D. of the sleeve so as not to be overly tight when installing bushing .
 

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shorttrack
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1,605 Posts
I assume the part I posted is the upgraded one as it was what Hyundai shows for the current bolt.

I just got the parts in from Fourgreen. And it is the metric 10 grade bolt. How is the recall bolt graded?

The OE bushing outside diameter is 3.15" or 80mm
I mic'ed the bushing in 6 locations on the O.D. ,The aluminum shell is not perfectly round , my average O.D. was 3.1605 '' I'm sure QA of this part is sketchy so you should do a a/b/c O.D mic'ing and add the 3 measurements and divide by 3 ,this will be your O.D of the bushing shell .Add a .0005''-.002'' to the I.D. of the sleeve so as not to be overly tight when installing bushing .
 

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shorttrack
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I'd rather do it myself
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So I decided to attempt the OE bushing in the extra hole today. I had a broken bolt that first had to come out and it did easy enough. I swung the sway bar down and drilled into it and then used an easy out. I tried the left hand drill bit but didn't have one big enough and it's hard to work it in straight which prevents it from binding and backing the threaded part out.

The OE hole is around 1 1/8" on mine. I have a 3" hole saw as the bushing OD is ~3.15-3.16" OD. But decided to order a 2 7/8" hole saw so I would have more lip to work with. The OE lip is around 1/4" plus whatever the thickness of the subframe metal is at that point. I plan to cut a small slit, ~1/8" deep, at 4 points around the new hole and then bend that in to make the lip.

I did wedge a 3/4" x 6" x 8"L piece of wood between the diff and the subframe and marked the hole. Then drilled an alignment hole in the center. This should allow me to use the hole saw when I clamp the piece of wood to the subframe.

Stay tuned but the hole saw won't be here until Tuesday.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Got the 2 7/8" hole saw and drilled out the hole. It was rather easy other than the tough steel. At first I left the 1/4" drill bit in for the pilot hole but that tended to enlarge the pilot hole. I took it out and put in a 1/4" punch instead.

Now I'm finishing up the enlargement of the hole with a die grinder.

This would be a lot easier to do if the subframe was out of the car. :) I gave up on the lip idea as the steel is so hard.



The 2 7/8" hole saw fit inside the depressed area on the subframe and the 3" would have rode on the transition from flat to pushed in depression.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Got it in. I got the hole rounded out just enough to hold the bushing but still tight. Then put the bushing in the freezer for an hour and it tapped right in. I had some grease on it and the bare metal was painted.



All in all not all that difficult as long as you have a good hole saw, drill, die grinder and grinder stone. Maybe 4 hours if you have everything
 

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Got it in. I got the hole rounded out just enough to hold the bushing but still tight. Then put the bushing in the freezer for an hour and it tapped right in. I had some grease on it and the bare metal was painted.



All in all not all that difficult as long as you have a good hole saw, drill, die grinder and grinder stone. Maybe 4 hours if you have everything
go put some slicks on and do some redline clutch dumps let us know how it holds up>:D

its really sad they didnt include the dual bushings from the factory.
 

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shorttrack
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1,605 Posts
Got it in. I got the hole rounded out just enough to hold the bushing but still tight. Then put the bushing in the freezer for an hour and it tapped right in. I had some grease on it and the bare metal was painted.



All in all not all that difficult as long as you have a good hole saw, drill, die grinder and grinder stone. Maybe 4 hours if you have everything
All that work , why not make and install the metal support sleeve into the subframe first than install the bushing? The sleeve adds strength to the .078'' thin rear subframe sheet metal area and gives the ''ALUMINUM'' shelled C-Bushing a larger contact area to ride on .The result would have evenly distribute the Diff's downward loading during hard launching or spirited driving over a larger contact area .
 

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shorttrack
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shorttrack
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go put some slicks on and do some redline clutch dumps let us know how it holds up>:D

its really sad they didnt include the dual bushings from the factory.
I already did,result was an 11.87 ET @ 117 MPH (best time) on N2O ,drag radials and a host of other mods .Held up very well .
I invested the time and welded in a supporting metal sleeve 1st than installed the c-bushing .Before doing this mod I did feel a hard knock/thump during hard launches ,even on the street .After the installation of the 4th bushing no more knocking/thumping in the rear .I can only equate the noise and feeling of the knock/thump being the diff loading/moving under hard acceleration ,has not happened at all since the mod.
 

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shorttrack
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go put some slicks on and do some redline clutch dumps let us know how it holds up>:D

its really sad they didnt include the dual bushings from the factory.
Not redline dumps,the car would just spin .
 

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Most people,that I have known to do red line dumps lose races, if they are not spinning then they are destroying parts.
It is easy enough to obliterate your car at much lower RPMs, even with the best parts. I for one will have to preserve my
Wallet!

TJ
 

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Most people,that I have known to do red line dumps lose races, if they are not spinning then they are destroying parts.
It is easy enough to obliterate your car at much lower RPMs, even with the best parts. I for one will have to preserve my
Wallet!

TJ
i have broken my fair share of parts at the track. i have a strong feeling that if you do not make all the motor/trans mounts stiffer before doing the rear diff, it will break the bolt due to everything else being able to move so much, especially on properly sized slicks.

but for what its worth, i launched my car at 7800rpm on slicks and pulled off 1.5 60's in my last toy (crx) so i know how to launch;)
 

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but for what its worth, i launched my car at 7800rpm on slicks and pulled off 1.5 60's in my last toy (crx) so i know how to launch;)
Eeeowzser, what does the rest of that time slip look like?

TJ
 
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