I think a sheet metal hole saw would work better. I used one of these metal grinders.
The more and more I drive the car, the better I can feel the difference. If you're one that pays attention to little differences youll definitely notice this.
Get a left handed thread drill bit 1/3 the diameter of the bolt. Then drill the center of the bolt in reverse. It will probably spin right out after you go in about half way.
How does the stock on differ then the aftermarket ones? Wouldn't the bolt snap the same way everyone else's aftermarket one has? Or is there more support in the oem mount that would prevent the bolt from snapping? Or possibly the different grade bolts only puts stress on the aftermarket bolt? If you get what I'm trying to say.
The OEM one has rubber that allows the diff to still flex. If you go under your car and look at the mount, it's sitting halfway in and half way out in the cross member. The bolt pretty much nests on the rubber bushing which allows room for flex
I came to conclusion that this mod is not needed and may cause more damage to the car when the part goes bad. I got lucky that it snapped off clean instead doing more damages that I have seen in other cars.
If anyone wants to buy My used throughdown rear differential mount let me know.. I have brand complete new one and used one with missing bolt.
Ive been saying this for a while and had other people be like "no that wont work trust me" and as Ive looked at it Im like "yup pretty sure that will work". Im glad you did this and confirmed my idea. I had the torque solutions mount in there and my bolt also broke.
This should have been the way the aftermarket guys went. If you think about it, you put a solid aftermarket in beside a supple oem, you might as well have taken the oem one out. It is doing nothing. If anything, it would be hurting more than helping, it is allowing the diff. to flex while the solid is trying to stop it. Any movement of the diff. and they're fighting each other.
I am curious, did you weld that sucker in? By experience, the way you took the metal out with the carbide burrs was the best option, with a hole saw, you will never get it perfectly cut where you want it. There is no way to have the center guided, so you would be doing donuts on your subframe.
I am curious for reliability updates in the future.
I applaud you for a good job.
My thoughts exactly!^^^^
I didn't weld it in. I made the hole large enough to where the mount had enough room to squeeze in. I basically hammered it in at the end to keep that tight fit so it wouldn't go anywhere
This mount is designed to be an interference fit and pressed in, so I am still wondering exactly what size hole saw I will need to drill it out and have it press in like factory.
Perhaps if someone has the OEM diff and mounts out while designing poly mounts, they could measure the OEM hole for us.
I measured the outter part of the mount and it was 3 1/8
Maybe a 3 inch would work and then go from there. Shaving a little at a time till you can press it in. If you go under there and look at both holes and compare, you'll know exactly where to stop.
You would be better off to make a plate to fit the mount like you want, then weld the plate to the subframe. Then the hole in the subframe does not have to be so precise.
^^that's kinda what I was thinking... and you could create a lip that duplicates the other side to give it that factory finished look.
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