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OEM Diff Mount for that extra hole ;)

65K views 238 replies 50 participants last post by  Antman216 
#1 ·
So. Pretty much self explanatory. Make the damn hole bigger.

Ordered oem parts


Forced this sucker in

 
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#2 · (Edited)
Subed........what's it feel like?, what size is the hole?

I'd always wondered if this was possible, and perhaps in the original design...........but omitted later because of cost/benefit analysis.

Duro

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#4 ·
Feels a lot better. Just took it out for a drive.
 
#9 ·
Yup. Those are the part numbers. Took me over an hour to do. Pain in the ass when you don't have the right tools
 
#11 ·
I think a sheet metal hole saw would work better. I used one of these metal grinders.


The more and more I drive the car, the better I can feel the difference. If you're one that pays attention to little differences youll definitely notice this.
 
#12 ·
subscribed.
 
#14 ·
How does the stock on differ then the aftermarket ones? Wouldn't the bolt snap the same way everyone else's aftermarket one has? Or is there more support in the oem mount that would prevent the bolt from snapping? Or possibly the different grade bolts only puts stress on the aftermarket bolt? If you get what I'm trying to say.
 
#16 ·
The OEM one has rubber that allows the diff to still flex. If you go under your car and look at the mount, it's sitting halfway in and half way out in the cross member. The bolt pretty much nests on the rubber bushing which allows room for flex
 
#15 ·
That's what happens with a solid mount
 
#19 ·
I came to conclusion that this mod is not needed and may cause more damage to the car when the part goes bad. I got lucky that it snapped off clean instead doing more damages that I have seen in other cars. :)

If anyone wants to buy My used throughdown rear differential mount let me know.. I have brand complete new one and used one with missing bolt.
 
#20 ·
You were using a SOLID mount. Those will cause damage
 
#23 ·
Noticing differences everyday I drive. You don't get as much "jerk" when shifting through gears. Definitely smoother. More centered in a way.
 
#24 ·
So the differential is only secured through one mount? I might consider doing this for myself for overall build integrity. Thanks for the pictures!
 
#27 ·
Ive been saying this for a while and had other people be like "no that wont work trust me" and as Ive looked at it Im like "yup pretty sure that will work". Im glad you did this and confirmed my idea. I had the torque solutions mount in there and my bolt also broke.
 
#28 ·
Has anyone used the 2 oem driver side mounts in both places for any period of time . There has to be someone who has tried this before on here .
 
#29 ·
I might be the first
 
#30 ·
This should have been the way the aftermarket guys went. If you think about it, you put a solid aftermarket in beside a supple oem, you might as well have taken the oem one out. It is doing nothing. If anything, it would be hurting more than helping, it is allowing the diff. to flex while the solid is trying to stop it. Any movement of the diff. and they're fighting each other.
I am curious, did you weld that sucker in? By experience, the way you took the metal out with the carbide burrs was the best option, with a hole saw, you will never get it perfectly cut where you want it. There is no way to have the center guided, so you would be doing donuts on your subframe.
I am curious for reliability updates in the future.
I applaud you for a good job.
 
#31 ·
My thoughts exactly!^^^^
I didn't weld it in. I made the hole large enough to where the mount had enough room to squeeze in. I basically hammered it in at the end to keep that tight fit so it wouldn't go anywhere
 
#32 ·
This mount is designed to be an interference fit and pressed in, so I am still wondering exactly what size hole saw I will need to drill it out and have it press in like factory.

Perhaps if someone has the OEM diff and mounts out while designing poly mounts, they could measure the OEM hole for us.

Duro
 
#33 · (Edited)
I measured the outter part of the mount and it was 3 1/8
Maybe a 3 inch would work and then go from there. Shaving a little at a time till you can press it in. If you go under there and look at both holes and compare, you'll know exactly where to stop.
 
#37 ·
^^that's kinda what I was thinking... and you could create a lip that duplicates the other side to give it that factory finished look.
 
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