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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those who are interested in tracking their Genesis Coupe's I'm sure they're very aware that one of the best modifications that will improve track times is weight reduction.

Dropping the weight on the car results in improved handling, acceleration, and braking.

Below I will compile a list of items and their repective weights, please add items and I will edit the post, thanks!

Oh, and for reference, the stock Genesis Coupe weighs roughly 3,420 lbs for the Track Model.



Gen Coupe Weight Reduction List: (Updated 2/17/11)

Engine Components
Battery - 38 lbs.
Cat-back exhaust (stock) - 46 lbs.
Washer Fluid Resevoir (full) - 13.5 lbs.
OEM motor mounts - 7.6 lbs.

Body Components
Front Fender Liner - 4 lbs (each)
Front Crash Beam - 18.4 lbs
Hood - 40 lbs
Trunk- 18 lbs

Interior Components
Rear Seat Bottom Portion - 11.2 lbs
Rear Seat Folding Portion - 17.8 lbs
Rear Seat Buckles - .6 lbs (each)

Wheels and Brakes
Non-Track Wheels (18") - 26 lbs front 27.5 lbs rear
Track Wheels (19") - 28 lbs front 29.4 lbs rear
Spare Wheel, Tire and tools (track) - 39.5 lbs.
Front Rotors (track) - 21 lbs.
Rear Rotors (track) - 19.4 lbs.
 

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When considering bang for the buck it gets hard.

First that exhaust weight you listed, was that adding back in the replacement aftermarket exhaust weight? Seems highly unlikely.

The new lithum-ion batteries are hard to beat for weight as they weigh a fraction of what lead batteries weigh. (i.e. I replaced my 7# motorcycle battery w/ a fancy battery that weighs 8 ounces and it works fine!) My car will definitely get one if I own this car long enough to kill a battery. Probably drop 35-40# off the front end doing that.

Purchasing 18" lightweight wheels would be another one because it's reciprocating weight. Same w/ the crankshaft pulley. It's only 4# your saving but it's rotating and only $80.

CF body panels will save you about 3# on a fender, 4# on a trunk, 8# on a hood. Hood would make the most since since these cars are front end heavy.

Interested in other suggestions.
 

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start with a 2.0t :) saves about 70 lbs, engine sits lower and further back towards the firewall.
 

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O, rearry?
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start with a 2.0t :) saves about 70 lbs, engine sits lower and further back towards the firewall.
:D Love it!


If you're thinking of just taking things out for raceday, consider the back seats + passenger seat. That'll clear out some stuff you really don't need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm just compiling a list of things that people may consider removing on their cars, that way when they look into purchasing replacement parts, e.g. race seats, they can effectively calculate weight savings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When considering bang for the buck it gets hard.

First that exhaust weight you listed, was that adding back in the replacement aftermarket exhaust weight? Seems highly unlikely. .
That's the weight of the stock piping and muffler. It should be noted that there aren't many aftermarket exhausts that weigh less than stock, however.

The new lithum-ion batteries are hard to beat for weight as they weigh a fraction of what lead batteries weigh. (i.e. I replaced my 7# motorcycle battery w/ a fancy battery that weighs 8 ounces and it works fine!) My car will definitely get one if I own this car long enough to kill a battery. Probably drop 35-40# off the front end doing that.
Lightweight batteries are another area of weight reduction that I was looking into. I was going to consider purchasing a braille battery that weighs about 9lbs. Perhaps after the summer.



Purchasing 18" lightweight wheels would be another one because it's reciprocating weight.
Yep, it's generally understood that for each lb in dynamic weight loss it represents about 4lbs of static weight.

Same w/ the crankshaft pulley. It's only 4# your saving but it's rotating and only $80.
This also helps the motor rev faster as the motor doesn't have to spin a heavy pulley.

CF body panels will save you about 3# on a fender, 4# on a trunk, 8# on a hood. Hood would make the most since since these cars are front end heavy.
I think the CF hood would yield about 20 lbs of weight savings or so.
 

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In Charge of Snacks
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Oh yeah, I like this thread. Keep the ideas coming. On the expensive side there are: Carbon shells(race seats), for the insane of you with a 3.8 before 2011 you could delete the sunroof, two-piece brake rotors(I'm working on this now), Carbon drive shaft???, aluminum flywheel(don't have any idea what this would do to day to day drivability), forged engine internals are lighter and result in a profound difference(not advisable for the budget conscious),... Please share if you can think of anything else.
 

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start with a 2.0t :) saves about 70 lbs, engine sits lower and further back towards the firewall.

This is the second time I see this on here, Ive had both versions...both sat identical towards the firewall, 2.0T hangs a little further forward in the front...didnt notice any difference in height(other than the intake manifold).

there is only a 1% difference in weight distribution between the 2
 

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In Charge of Snacks
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Hahaha, "go to the gym" he says! Awesome. I wish you all knew how true that is in my case. I'm sure I could lose 50lbs and be none the worse for wear.
 

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WTF is NOS???
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go to the gym. YOU are one of the heaviest items in a car. taking 20 lbs off yourself also helps your car :)
LOL, I was about to post the same. Judging from the majority of GC owners they don't have 20 pounds to spare.... I on the other hand have plenty to spare....LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Oh yeah, I like this thread. Keep the ideas coming. On the expensive side there are: Carbon shells(race seats), for the insane of you with a 3.8 before 2011 you could delete the sunroof, two-piece brake rotors(I'm working on this now), Carbon drive shaft???, aluminum flywheel(don't have any idea what this would do to day to day drivability), forged engine internals are lighter and result in a profound difference(not advisable for the budget conscious),... Please share if you can think of anything else.
We all know where we can shed weight on the Gen Coupe, but the point is we need to know what the weights of the old stuff is, so we actually know how much we lost. Know what I mean?

If you can also find out what the stock rotor weight is, so I can add it to the list.
 

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The only down fall with reducing weight on a cars, it expensive. You can yield better power/weight ratio by putting more power and changing your suspension to get better handling.
Plus by greatly reducing your weight of your car, it will change the way the car will handle, not always for the best if you're suspension isn't setup for it.
 

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Yes, but on your first point... 'Spensive; You must realize that weight reduction is good for acceleration, deceleration, responsiveness, road holding, longevity of wear parts, etc. More power is good ONLY for acceleration. As for the second part, yeah, that's what suspension tuning(adjustable coilovers/springrates...) is for. Besides, we know it's expensive, we car people whine about it endlessly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, but on your first point... 'Spensive; You must realize that weight reduction is good for acceleration, deceleration, responsiveness, road holding, longevity of wear parts, etc. More power is good ONLY for acceleration. As for the second part, yeah, that's what suspension tuning(adjustable coilovers/springrates...) is for. Besides, we know it's expensive, we car people whine about it endlessly.
Weight reduction doesn't necesssarily have to be expensive if you're just removing parts, but if you're replacing parts with lightweight ones, it does get pricey.
 

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Well, I was figurin' on reducing my vehicular weight through the pricey lightweight high performance parts I mentioned above. I'd call that expensive. The stuff one can take out and reinstall with ease is a pittance. I'm fairly sure I don't care to remove my airbag equipped passenger seat every friggin time i go to the track or a time attack. Permanent weight reduction is more my style.
 

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I replaced the battery with a smaller on and saved 18 lbs IIRC, the OEM battery weighs 38 lbs. The crash bar weighs 26 lbs.
 

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Battery replacement, that's the REAL s*#@ I'm talking about. What brand/model did you buy? Rough estimate on price. Also, where/how important is this crash bar? I haven't poked around just yet.

*** EDIT ***
Ok, just looked into the Crash Beam situation. I hope none of you would remove this outright. That thing looks important. Any Idea how much weight could be saved with a sensible replacement; Maybe a DOM bull bar type contraption using stock mount points? According to AMS it only weighs 18+ pounds.
 
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