My service dept said every 7,500 for fully synthetic. Find a new stealership.
Snoopy, is this a very recent notice? At my dealership they are always trying to get me in to change my 2.0T synthetic oil after 3 months. But I only change it after 6 months because my car doesn't put on alot of kms, and its not in the severe use category, I drive it 90% on the highway. I haven't yet changed the tires either, and I've had the car since June 2009.Hyundai canada just put down a notice, regardless of oil type, change intervals are 6000km's on 2.0T or 6 months, whichever comes first.
I couldn´t have said this better myself. I run 0w20 full synthetic year round too.Just to clarify on the oil weights.
The first number (i.e. 0 or 5 usually) is the cold engine oil weight. When the engine is cold this is the weight of the oil.
The second number (i.e. 20W or 30W usually) is the warm engine oil weight. Once the engine is up to temp is will behave like a straight oil of this weight.
Ideally we would all have a 0 - 'whatever' in for cold start ups as it reduces wear w/ the great flow characteristics of the 0 weight. But there are a couple of catches.
First, if your oil is 85 F when it's cold like a Texas summer the difference between a 0 and a 5 is inconsequential for start up flow.
Second, the wider the spread is between the 2 numbers the more viscocity modifiers they had to use to make that happen, and it will (everything else being equal) behave a little less consistent at high temperatures. A 0-20W (of the same brand and type) will measure a lower overall viscocity than a 5-20W after some useage and will break down quicker.
The only real reason to ever run a thicker oil, like a 10-30W would be because you are seeing dropping oil pressues under hard use. This would only happen after repeated and extended full throttle runs, like at a road race track day. This should never be an issue for a typical use DD car, even one sitting in 105 degree rush hour traffic all day.
If cost be damned, (in a 3.8) I'd run a 0-20W year round and change fairly often. And for track days during a Texas summer I'd switch to a 15-40W (or similiar) just for the track day, then I'd drain it and go right back to the 0-20W.
For those of us w/ more moderate budgets in the South I'd run a 5-20W year around and just change it immediatedly after an average track day.
If I lived back in Denver and still parked vehicles outside I'd run the 0-20W at least for the winter months cause January is a real bitch.
And always synthetics.
Mobil 1 is what I've been using for years. I have only had one change in this car, but I don't see it causing any problems. I used mobil 1 in my STI, Focus, Civic, Protege, everything pretty much.Here is my oil report Chevron Delo 5w40 synthetic. Chevron on the left, Mobil1 on the right. I would stay away from M1 if I were you. I only use Delo or Rotella T6. Those oils are made for heavy duty diesel engines with turbochargers. Also rated SM for gas engines. I pay $25/gal for the Chevron and $22/gal for the T6.