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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I made the decision that, with the new motor, I would do all my oil changes/maintenance myself. I know it's been mentioned before, but Hyundai sure doesn't make it overly easy with how tight they put these damn oil filters on.

I started out the day by changing the oil in my wife's Civic, and followed that by changing the oil in her Escape. Both cars were a piece of cake. Drove up on the 12k Rhino ramps with ease, oil filters were a breeze to get off, etc.

Here comes the GC. 4 attempts to get up on the ramps, all a fail. I never had any problems on my old 8k ramps, but on these the left ramp kept sliding forward a foot each time I was almost to the ramp crest. Yay me. So I decide to jack it, and put it on stands. Finally get it up(lulz), and now I'm stuck laughing at this filter that has been tightened by the hands of God. I even used my Fram filter plier/tool, and all that did on the first attempt was gouge holes in the side of it, and drained oil through the side of the filter.

/Rant.
 

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You have to recite the chant to free the filter. LOL
 

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Use the F'n Search Button
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I heard the Rhino Ramps aren't the greatest for sports cars/low vehicles. Actually saw alot of reviews on this actually. Although those ramps can support a ton more weight than standard jack stands, I feel much safer under 6-ton jack stands than the ramps.

And yes, when they put on that filter, I think they used an impact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Finally got it off. Think that will cover my workout for the day...

I trusted my life to some $25 3-ton jack stands from Wal-Mart. Never again. I'll bolt some sort of brackets in the garage floor to keep the ramps from sliding next time.

This was fun, though. At least now I know that everyone in the old oil change threads weren't lying when they said these filters were put on by some 8 foot giant on steroids.
 

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Yea I am going to ask my dealer to change to full synthetic just so A its 10,000 miles so ill have that much time to put my stuff on the car and take it off for the nxt change.

And if anyone gonna ask why I go to my dealer to service my car is because I have lifetime supply of tires if I do all my servicing through them.
 

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Here comes the GC. 4 attempts to get up on the ramps, all a fail. I never had any problems on my old 8k ramps, but on these the left ramp kept sliding forward a foot each time I was almost to the ramp crest.
My ramps worked flawlessly during the warmer months, but I tried to use them for an oil change this winter in the cold weather and it was doing the exact same thing to me. One of them kept sliding and I spent a half an hour getting in and out of the car trying to get on, the rubber pads underneath that are supposed to keep it from sliding had turned to hard plastic. That's when my mind snapped and I got out of the car for the last time and launched them as hard as I could into the back of the garage. I have to say that they are made really tough... I just wish the cabinets I fired them into had of been made of the same material. :(

That oil filter is a real bitch... after my sliding ramp adventure I finally jacked the car up, drained the oil and ther filter decided it would be a great time to self-weld to the car. I had to take off that plastic shrould around it to be able to get some leverage with my oil filter wrench. Alot of fun when it's like -15C. :mad:
 

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redbull im running 5w40 synthetic! dont ask me why 40 but that is what the dealer recommended for the synthetic blend!

I have no idea what this oil does.......i just keep getting told its worth the money ahah

i think oils oil ( as far a reputable manufacture) but after a blown engine on my honda ( manufacture problem) im not chancing my own oil changes
 

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I will be investing a set of these high performace friction inducing mats for use with my Rhino Ramps as the rubber on the underside is starting to wear. I can't decide between the red or the black. Decisions decisions....







 

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SUN★WORKS
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10w 30 here :) i always run a 10- 15w on turboed cars :)

anyways.. i had an extremely hard time on my first oil change! i ended up pounding a screw driver through the side with a hammer and loosening that way haha it was my last resort ( broke my one oil wrench and the other just slipped)

Since then its only hand tight (like it should be) and i dont need a tool to take it off anymore :)
 

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Procrastinator
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My first oil change was regular oil at 500 miles. After that, I switched to full synthetic. Over the winter I would run 5w20, then switch to 5w30 for the warmer months. Never had a problem with the oil filter coming off. I change it every 2000-3000 miles. Also, if you have the 2.0T, I would recommend priming the filter (fill it up with fresh oil) before screwing it back on.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
 

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The SFGenKid
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Yeah I must say that motherphucker was crazy tight to get off. I said eff it and put an oil filter rocket it on there with a breaker bar(4.5 foot) and went apeshizzz on it. Now I only do my oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That's what I used, and finally ended up working. If it weren't for those I don't think I could've gotten it off without the 'puncture with a screwdriver' method. Once the teeth punctured the filter and oil started spewing out I knew I was in for a treat if they didn't work. Solid metal filter with no rubber grip + covered in slippery oil = :ugh:.

Pretty happy I bought those last night when I bought all the oil, and stuff.
 

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SUN★WORKS
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5w30 simply breaks down too fast under the extra heat from the turbo. 10w40 would be ideal for better oil life and turbo protection but its hard to find locally in a brand of oil i like. So 10w 30 works for me :)

everyone has there own opinion.. this is just mine haha
 
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