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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 Genesis Coupe 2.0T Premium (Stock)

Car started reading high oil temperatures reaching high 225°F about three weeks ago, got an oil change but still kept on getting hot, the only way to cool it down is if I’m driving high speeds(highway). Checked my coolant last week only to find out the reservoir was entirely empty even though I filled it up a month and a half ago, refilled it with water(the only thing I had at the time) only for it to be mixed up with the coolant I had put last time. Been searching for the problem before taking it to a shop because I know they’re going to charge me a lot just to find the problem. I have a few things that could be causing this problem, either my radiator is clogged, electric fan isn’t working properly, or worse case scenario, head gasket is blown. I have no clue what could it be, any ideas? (Also, I think mentioning that I live in Houston, TX is important since it’s been reaching 101°F these past few weeks.)
 

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Take the radiator cap off when the engine is cold and it should be full all the way to the top. if it isn't it has a leak and has air in the system. You can look for coolant stains on the hard pipes the hoses attach to for signs of leaking. The OE spring clamps get weak over time too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Found out that my cooling fan wasn't even turning on, bought a new cooling fan to see if that was the problem but it wasn't so now I'm thinking its either my thermostat or the relays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Might be the low fan speed resistor on the back of the fan shroud burnt out.
Bought a brand new radiator fan and replaced it with the old one and it still didn't turn on, checked the fuses in the back for low speed and high but the fuses weren't blown so I checked my relays and both condenser fan relay and the a/c compressor relay were black on the the electrical sticks and apparently greased up. Did some searching for replacements only to find out that the only company that sells them is the Hyundai dealerships (and eBay of course) , so I'm planning on buying it from them but still unsure whether to let them install them or do it myself. Any ideas on what I should do? (Pictures below for more details)

Picture #1 and #2 is the relay from the A/C compressor.

#1
Wood Rectangle Flooring Gas Hardwood


#2
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring Gas


Picture #3 and #4 is the relay for the condenser fan (radiator fan)

#3
Wood Rectangle Gas Hardwood Electric blue


#4
Wood Hardwood Gas Electric blue Recreation


Enlarged #1
Wood Rectangle Flooring Gas Hardwood


Enlarged #2
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring Gas


Enlarged #3
Wood Rectangle Gas Hardwood Electric blue


Enlarged #4
Wood Hardwood Gas Electric blue Recreation
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: It’s fixed! Cooling fan works now.

Got a brand new relay from AutoZone (part: Duralast Relay 20151) and connected it. Drove it for a good ten minutes, checked engine, and there it was, the fan blowing :)

Thanks guys for the help.
 

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Update: It’s fixed! Cooling fan works now.

Got a brand new relay from AutoZone (part: Duralast Relay 20151) and connected it. Drove it for a good ten minutes, checked engine, and there it was, the fan blowing :)

Thanks guys for the help.
Check that relay every few months if you can. If you see it burning up I'd get an OEM replacement if possible. I think the Autozone has a 1 year warranty.
 

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If you jumper the low speed resistor then it will run at high speed all the time the fan is commanded on for temp (~203F) , though using the low speed relay. High speed fan is for AC, low speed for engine cooling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update: The fan stopped working again.

Was in traffic heading back home and my coolant gauge started increasing. Got home after a while, checked fan (oil was reading near 225°F) and it was now off. I'm starting to think that maybe it might be the wiring needing some work. I'm going to let it cool for a while and check the relays.
 

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The wire on my relay that has a bad connection is the 12v+ that is jumpered for the #30 leg. I have to push the relay and wedge something in to hold it towards the front. Looking at the fuse box from the fender it is the left hand terminal, right hand is ECU grounding that controls the relay. #30 is the 12v + 50A
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The wire on my relay that has a bad connection is the 12v+ that is jumpered for the #30 leg. I have to push the relay and wedge something in to hold it towards the front. Looking at the fuse box from the fender it is the left hand terminal, right hand is ECU grounding that controls the relay. #30 is the 12v + 50A
Have any pictures you can show?
 

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No pics. I swapped relays and that did not work. But when I pushed sideways on the relay the fan kicked in. I have an indicator light that shows when the ECU grounds the relay coil to turn it on and it lit up but the fan was not running as the coil had no 12v+. This is the always hot wire for the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No pics. I swapped relays and that did not work. But when I pushed sideways on the relay the fan kicked in. I have an indicator light that shows when the ECU grounds the relay coil to turn it on and it lit up but the fan was not running as the coil had no 12v+. This is the always hot wire for the coil.
I now know what you mean, decided to push the relay while the engine was on and the fan turned on every time I pressed against it, could it be that it’s loose and needs a ziptie to lock in the terminals to the connector in order for the fan to turn on?
 

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I have something wedged between the two relays to push it out. Next time I look at ai ti will try and bend the female spade connectors a bit to see if I can get it tighter, if that's the reason. I've had the fuse box apart before and it doesn't open all the say so it's pretty hard to work o n it.
 
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