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I have a 2012 GenCoupe 2.0t, it starts up fine everything’s great, i have 124 xxx km on it and i noticed it overheats to the red line only when idling. I checked and my cooling fan isn’t coming on but it is blowing the fuse located in that long strip of fuses (multi fuse). I also noticed my relay for hi and lo are much warmer than any other relays. Any ideas on what the problem specifically is? I know my cooling fan isn’t running causing my car to overheat only when idling but I don’t know why it’s blowing the fuse or if the relays supposed to run that warm. Any help would be great. Thanks
 

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You could start by unplugging your fan and apply 12V and a ground and see if the fan motor is bad. Check that the fan spins freely and isnt being obstructed.
 

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You could start by unplugging your fan and apply 12V and a ground and see if the fan motor is bad. Check that the fan spins freely and isnt being obstructed.
There’s two connectors to the fan, one looks like a regular harness and one kind of is an L shaped harness, I’m sort of new to dealing with fans and all that, which one should I unplug and test?
 

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If it's blowing fuses I would guess the fan motor is bad. It's only a one speed motor with a resistor to drop the voltage for low speed fan. If you unplug the resistor connection on the back of the shroud and jumper it with a 14ga wire then you will get the high speed fan on when the low speed is called for.

The fan should come on at 203F. I do not think the high speed fan will come on for engine temp control. I think the high speed fan is only for AC pressure control. When the high speed fan is on then the low speed fan relay has 12v too.

So try jumpering the connector on loom on the the back of the shroud. If it still overheats the motor is bad. Try spinning the blade when it off to make sure the motor is not froze or hard to spin.

The motor is easy to change.
 

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I have this same issue.. 2010 3.8 Track with 106k miles. I've recently swapped thermostat, waterpump, low speed fan resistor, flushed and replaced coolant (using spill free funnel).

Car runs great on the highway. Stays right around 179-185 with/without AC on, in 90 degree weather.



But once I get into the city and hit stop lights, I creep to upper 190s and low 200s. Once stopped in idle, like a drice thru, temp slowly creeps up until I see 220-230 and I shut it off.

I've pressure tested the system and it holds 13-14psi. The only "leaks" I have is when overflow canister overflows. It seems it pushes coolant out but doesn't always suck it back in.

My fan starts up at 203, but idk if high speed ever comes on.

Ive replaced the radiator with a stock CSF one, alone with their cap.

Could it be the low or high speed relays? Even though the fan is coming on?

BTW using green zerex coolant 50/50.

Only mods are test pipes, magnaflow catback, Potent Booster, wheels and tires.


I got the car at 78k miles and never had an issue until around 95k miles. Sitting in a drive thru after a 2hr drive in 100 degree weather, AC blasting the whole time. I look down and I'm in the red. I immediately shut off, let the car cool. It drank some coolant but still runs fine, no smoking from exhaust or loss of lower.
 

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The lo speed fan is the only one used for engine cooling. But if the AC was on, the hi peed fan should have been running under that load for AC pressure.
 

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Okay so I had an additional relay in my trunk, from when I swapped the low speed relay (purchased two incase and probably should've swapped them both). I did hear an audible difference in fan speed when putting in the new relay. (I had car idling with AC on).

The car temp sits at 208-212 with hood closed, idling, with AC on, in 100 degree weather. (Previoislt would creep past 220 and I would shut it down).

When driving, it goes right back down to 180s.

Is 208-212 considered normal for those conditions just sitting idling? It's still center temp gauge inside the car.

Would the only thing that could lower that 208-212 be a double thick radiator? (I'm unaware of any aftermarket fans)

I also remember a mention of using high speed only by running wire from the ground of the low speed relay to the ground of the high speed?
 

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Might be a bum radiator. Someone else here had an AF one and finally got rid of it and their cooling problem was gone. I have a Koyo 3.8L radiator in mine. With a newer OE stat it runs at 187F once fully warmed up. Fan comes on at 200F per my manual control but I never see that unless I'm idling for an extended period.

How old is the t-stat? My original would run at 180-185F but was slow to warm up. Usually ran at 183F going down the road. But it took 20 minutes of idling to get the temp up for the fan to turn on. New one runs at 187F but is much quicker to get there.
 

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Thermostat was replaced just yesterday. Along with the water pump and low speed fan resistor.

Beck/Arnley (143-0848) thermostat.
Aisin WPK812 WATER PUMP.

Radiator was replaced in late April this year.. CSF 3484 Radiator.

Just took another drive and temps wouldn't go under 210 even at highway speeds for 10-15min... Hit the city and shot to 230 before I could pull off.
 

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Yeah I have no idea at this point. After my 230 degree run, I stopped at my parents for Father's Day and let the car cool. Parked the car around back on a steep hill. Filled up coolant and idled for a bit. Everything looked great, slowly idle to 203, fans kick on and bring temps down to 190, rinse and repeat. Did 4 cycles of that and shut the car off.

I drove back to my house, an hour and 40minutes home with no issues at all. Maintaining 179-185 the whole way. (Slowly creeped to 200 after exiting highway and driving through city/subdivision).

On my way to work this morning, same crap as yesterday. Warmed up, stood a 180 for a minute or two and then progressed to 200 at highway speeds. Stopped for coffee and creeper to 220 in drive through. Back on the road it initially dropped to 200 but slowly crept back to 230 before I was able to shut it off at work.

Outside temp was in the 70s. Inside the car Heating was sporadic during this time. Once I saw I wasnt going to be staying under 203, I cut the heat on... and didn't have any... but throughout this last 10minute drive from getting coffee to work, all while being 200-230 degrees coolant, my heat wasn't consistently hot.

Any chance there could be an obstruction within the engine? That's somehow preventing flow in certain situations but not others?
 

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No heat sounds like low coolant. It takes a while for all the air to naturally work it's way out of the system. It takes a few heat cool cycles before the radiator stays full when cold.

It doesn't take much of a leak to screw the drawing in of coolant from the overflow when cooling down. Could be a cap. I've found the OE cap is about all the works for me.

There are several methods for purging the air. But if all is well this happens all on it's own. Just don't open the system when it is hot.

One thing that really helps to see if your system is completely full is to use some clear vinyl hose for the overflow hose. If there is air in the system it will show up in that hose.

 

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So it really could all be going back to air in the cooling system/low coolant?

I have a CSF one that was recommended for the radiator, but I'm down to try anything at this point. Could this cap be preventing air from escaping? Or preventing coolant from returning on cool down? (This cap was replaced with the radiator less than a few months ago).

I've tried the spill free funnel and filling up on an incline/or jacked up front end. Have you heard of vacuum filling the radiator? Using a compressor to create a vacuum of the system and such up coolant in.
 

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The problem I have seen with caps is the leak on cool down so the coolant does not get sucked back in but air does instead. Over time it gets to where it can't push any more out.

I highly recommend the clear hose. It tells you every time you open the hood and is cheap.

With a properly sealed and non leaking system what happens with air int he system is ...

At high pressure from peak temps (on my car I saw the cap hit 16 lbs when the temp hit 203F and the fan come on. Then the coolant cools and the pressure drops. Sitting idling this is what happens.

Under pressure the air dissolves into the coolant, the coolant is pushed out due to volume expansion as it heats up. The air dissolved coolant goes out into the over flow and the air immediately is 'undissolved'.

If there is even a minor leak on cool down then the air gets sucked in at that point instead of coolant from the over flow and is never purged from the system. The OE clamps as the age too will lose their tension.
 

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The problem I have seen with caps is the leak on cool down so the coolant does not get sucked back in but air does instead. Over time it gets to where it can't push any more out.

I highly recommend the clear hose. It tells you every time you open the hood and is cheap.

With a properly sealed and non leaking system what happens with air int he system is ...

At high pressure from peak temps (on my car I saw the cap hit 16 lbs when the temp hit 203F and the fan come on. Then the coolant cools and the pressure drops. Sitting idling this is what happens.

Under pressure the air dissolves into the coolant, the coolant is pushed out due to volume expansion as it heats up. The air dissolved coolant goes out into the over flow and the air immediately is 'undissolved'.

If there is even a minor leak on cool down then the air gets sucked in at that point instead of coolant from the over flow and is never purged from the system. The OE clamps as the age too will lose their tension.
I think this is the problem that I’m having with my 2013 2.0 but I’m not sure, when car overheats there is bubbles in the overflow tank could that be air that hasn’t been able to escape? Car only overheats while sitting still (I think). Radiator isn’t that old and tubing is all dry, no drips in the garage.
 

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Hot coolant underpressure will dissolve air into it. That is how it usually removes the air. When cold is the radiator completely full? Overheating at idle is a water pump low flow issue or the fan is not coming on at 203F like it should maybe.
 

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Hot coolant underpressure will dissolve air into it. That is how it usually removes the air. When cold is the radiator completely full? Overheating at idle is a water pump low flow issue or the fan is not coming on at 203F like it should maybe.
not really full because when it overheats it burns off a little. Should I have a look at the water pump? I did find an air bubble in the bottom hose when topping it off this morning.
 

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If the system is sealed and the cap holds vacuum on cool down then there must be head gasket issues for gasses to be getting into the coolant. If all is well with the system the radiator will be completely full when cold. I use a clear hose for the overflow. You can see in an instant if there is air in the system. And when there is I usually find a clamp loose or hose issue.
 

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Hot coolant underpressure will dissolve air into it. That is how it usually removes the air. When cold is the radiator completely full? Overheating at idle is a water pump low flow issue or the fan is not coming on at 203F like it should maybe.
it also doesn’t always overheat, it takes a 30 minute drive and a lot of stops at red lights and maybe a stop at the kwik-e-mart to do it. Sometimes it’s only one dash above normal temp and sometimes it’s all the way in the red. I think maybe my fan isn’t coming on at the proper temp
 
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