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Update, didn’t overheat the whole way to work. Once I pulled into the garage and put it in park and sat there for 2 minutes, then it overheated by 2 dashes on the gauge.
 

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Wow, If you are showing overheat on the bar gauge its waaay up there. There is no reason it should be anywhere near that under any circumstances.

I noticed you are pretty high mileage.
I also noticed you said you changed the thermostat after the 230 plus incident. Thats good because Im sure you melted all the units wax out, it wouldnt have worked right from then on anyway.

Try this as an experiment:
As your engine gets hot while idling turn the HEAT up to full, then put the car on vent flow like your were using the AC. Turn your interior fan up high. It should drop your temp like a bad habit. If it doesnt I'd say you have excessive aluminium corrosion in your entire system including the heater core. I know you have dumped your fluids recently but that would nt do the trick.
Use this according to directions. If you do it right you'll fill and flush at least three times.
.

Also of important note:
CSR and KOYO have stopped making the 3.8 radiator as of this summer.
I use Mishi's, I got it for free. I've had to warranty replace it twice, but they have replaced it no hassles every time. It does do a really good job of keeping her cool in any circumstance.(They develop pinholes). Then again it coud be my crazy motor and the way I drive.

If I were you I would do the above. I would also replace your auto zone coolant (hahah) with this when done with the flushing.
Global Antifreeze/Engine Coollant. Youll need to buy a full gallon of concentrate then add (drinking water),...NOT DISTILLED.

I have a boosted BK2 that runs pure meth, Im making near 600 at the crank, the above stuff works like a dream.

***For all reading. Your car with its AC on should always bring your fan to max cooling. If your car cant drop any temp to 185 or so with the AC on you have a cooling system issue.
Also,...many tunes especially SFR's cripple the low speed fan operation for some reason.

Boosted, tuned, E85 tuned cars in stopped city traffic should always use the AC as a fan switch and keep your car under 194 F.
Also, oil coolers mean proper temp oil, mean more efficient cooling.
Add to that if your are AT, cool ATF is almost a better engine cooling mechanism than the coolant. Together you have one engineered system in any weather.
 

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Wow, If you are showing overheat on the bar gauge its waaay up there. There is no reason it should be anywhere near that under any circumstances.

I noticed you are pretty high mileage.
I also noticed you said you changed the thermostat after the 230 plus incident. Thats good because Im sure you melted all the units wax out, it wouldnt have worked right from then on anyway.

Try this as an experiment:
As your engine gets hot while idling turn the HEAT up to full, then put the car on vent flow like your were using the AC. Turn your interior fan up high. It should drop your temp like a bad habit. If it doesnt I'd say you have excessive aluminium corrosion in your entire system including the heater core. I know you have dumped your fluids recently but that would nt do the trick.
Use this according to directions. If you do it right you'll fill and flush at least three times.
.

Also of important note:
CSR and KOYO have stopped making the 3.8 radiator as of this summer.
I use Mishi's, I got it for free. I've had to warranty replace it twice, but they have replaced it no hassles every time. It does do a really good job of keeping her cool in any circumstance.(They develop pinholes). Then again it coud be my crazy motor and the way I drive.

If I were you I would do the above. I would also replace your auto zone coolant (hahah) with this when done with the flushing.
Global Antifreeze/Engine Coollant. Youll need to buy a full gallon of concentrate then add (drinking water),...NOT DISTILLED.

I have a boosted BK2 that runs pure meth, Im making near 600 at the crank, the above stuff works like a dream.

***For all reading. Your car with its AC on should always bring your fan to max cooling. If your car cant drop any temp to 185 or so with the AC on you have a cooling system issue.
Also,...many tunes especially SFR's cripple the low speed fan operation for some reason.

Boosted, tuned, E85 tuned cars in stopped city traffic should always use the AC as a fan switch and keep your car under 194 F.
Also, oil coolers mean proper temp oil, mean more efficient cooling.
Add to that if your are AT, cool ATF is almost a better engine cooling mechanism than the coolant. Together you have one engineered system in any weather.
I have an SFR tune...
 

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With engine cold, jack up the front of the car, to where it's barely off the front wheels.
Open the radiator cap
This is to make the top of the radiator, the highest point of the coolant system

Fill with coolant until full
start engine, to let the coolant flow through the system
if there was air in the system, it should flow to the top of the radiator
fill until full again
wait a few minutes while engine is running and check and fill
repeat this until it can't take any more.
fill the overflow tank to the low mark (I will explain)
put the radiator cap back on.

Low mark - reason is, the coolant is cold. As it gets to operating temps, the coolant expands and goes into the overflow tank.
once the engine gets up to temp, the overflow tank should be at the mid point to full.
When the coolant gets cold it will contract, pulling some of the coolant in the overflow tank, back into the radiator.
Never let the overflow tank go empty, otherwise, when the coolant gets cold, it will start to suck in air into the system

Another thing to check is the hose that connects the overflow tank to the radiator.
make sure the hose is connected to where they need to, on both ends.
 

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The flush is not expensive. Get a better quality coolant. Then after all you flush fills, pay particular attention to the final re fill.

Filling burping a 3.8 takes a bit, sometimes a couple attempts. Elevating the front is really helpful. i think it will help your particular case.

How the low speed fan cripple really can effect you in city type stop and go. It allows the temps to start building, since you have no flow, it then can make heatsoak happen quite fast.

**I engineered my cars fluid systems to allow me to pick the temps I want. All of them coolant,oil, ATF,...with extra fan and cooler systems, all manual controlled from key fobs, wireless.

There is nothing better on a 90 degree day than driving in city traffic with the AC freezing your balls off, you coolant is 183 F, your oil is 177 F and your ATF is 122F. You see a break i traffic and WHAM you are gone,...........................! Everyone else cars are like AHHHHHH-tistoohoooot-heatsoak-stuuter -burp...........
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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You really need a OBDII data reader to see what the temp actually is. The lo speed fan should come on at 203F for cooling. The factory gauge is not reliable source .
 
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