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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

I'm noob when it comes to fixing cars, trying to learn as I go along. I got the p2261 code, brought it to my garage just to see what the exact problem was. They told me it was the actuator valve on the turbo charger. Ive googled my ass off all day with no answers. Even a performance shop near me and also the Hyundai dealer both told me the turbo would need replacing.
My questions are:
Do I actually have to replace the turbo?

Is this a common problem?

If I buy an actuator kit is it fairly easy to replace?

(The car is stock.... be gentle haha)

All that to say I'd appreciate any insight or advice before purchasing the wrong things.
Thanks!
 

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That's the BOV. If it's the factory it my be bad. Most replace with some sort of aftermarket.

P2261 Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve - Mechanical
 

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Yes, or Recird valve they call it. First thing is check the electrical connections at the two solenoids for corrosion or loose fit.
75788


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome, I appreciate it seems like the GC community is pretty solid as well, I figured one of you had the answer, I'll give it a check on the weekend when I'm free and I'll post the results when everything is fixed up.
 

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What is the status of your issue?

So I had this issue as well. Looks like this code can primarily be thrown by one of two issues.

The first one is the actual bypass valve or RCV that is bolted to the turbo. It has a rubber diaphragm that can wear out over time and crack/tear/split (causing the stuck open condition) and/or get stuck shut (causing the stuck shut condition). That part is round with a single vacuum line coming off it and again, its bolted right on the turbo.

The second is the bypass valve solenoid or RCV solenoind which controls the opening and closing of the bypass valve mentioned in issue number one above. This is the part that Red Raspberry illustrated above with the page out of the manual. It has several vacuum lines and a single connector with a couple wires going to it.

The solenoid is 21,000 Won here in Korea, which is about $19.75 in USD. I replaced this first as it is far cheaper than replacing the bpv with a Forge. This was the faulty part causing my CEL and code.

Let us know how your repair went.
 

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Just for the record, you can bypass the solenoid, running the BOV directly off intake vacuum. Plug the port on the solenoid.
 

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I had this issue as well. Looks like this code can primarily be thrown by one of two issues.
Just for the record, you can bypass the solenoid, running the BOV directly off intake vacuum. Plug the port on the solenoid.
Right you are. Unfortunately for resale purposes here where I'm at I needed to have a stock configuration. Luckily the solenoid itself was under 20 bucks.

By the way Red Raspberry, do you still have that cd manual and can I get a link to it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What is the status of your issue?

So I had this issue as well. Looks like this code can primarily be thrown by one of two issues.

The first one is the actual bypass valve or RCV that is bolted to the turbo. It has a rubber diaphragm that can wear out over time and crack/tear/split (causing the stuck open condition) and/or get stuck shut (causing the stuck shut condition). That part is round with a single vacuum line coming off it and again, its bolted right on the turbo.

The second is the bypass valve solenoid or RCV solenoind which controls the opening and closing of the bypass valve mentioned in issue number one above. This is the part that Red Raspberry illustrated above with the page out of the manual. It has several vacuum lines and a single connector with a couple wires going to it.

The solenoid is 21,000 Won here in Korea, which is about $19.75 in USD. I replaced this first as it is far cheaper than replacing the bpv with a Forge. This was the faulty part causing my CEL and code.

Let us know how your repair went.
Ultimately it was the bypass valve it was the stuck closed case, waiting on the part to arrive and will be replaced next week. Thanks for the reply!
 

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So i have the same code. This thread is a big help. I am starting with testing the waste gate and rcv solenoid that i found them thanks to the post from the manual. I am just wondering if i am doing it right. Detached the electrical and vacuum hoses and removed solenoid and use a multi-meter and place the positive and neg to the two leads in the solenoid, correct?
 

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Yes but no need to disconnect the hoses.
I did disconnect hoses and let engine cool several hours. I used my multi-meter and got 39/40 ohms resistance. Which as I understand it, is about 8-9 ohms more resistance than spec. I do not know if that is what is causing the code or not. I guess it could be a contributing factor. I am trying to find one of these online to replace, and see what happens before I move on to replacing the BPV or waste gate actuator. Any thoughts or things I am missing here?
 

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40 ohms is high and may be the problem. Bypass it and see if the code doesn't come back.
I have watched the video on youtube
. But that is for a 2013 with a Forge already installed. Do you know if there is a write up or video for a 2010 with stock bov and how to bypass thRCV solenoid?
 

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I have a 2011 2.0t with aftermarket Forge BOV and solenoid bypass. It threw this code today on the way home. What might my issue be considering I already bypassed the solenoid that throws the code?

I was educating my son about stick shift on the way home. So I put the car in sixth gear and floored it to illustrate the car running rich and I selected too high of a gear for that given speed. Just to educate the kid that 6th gear isn't the fastest gear per say. So I thought I maybe threw an overboost code or something. The car has 87k miles and the previous owner already replaced the turbo assembly (showed me a email receipt for stock turbo assembly replacement). He was driving around with a CEL light on and would turn the car off (while rolling in neutral) and then back on and keep driving to "clear the code". When I bought the car from him I discovered the CEL was on because he hooked up the vacuum lines and solenoids incorrectly. Idk how much damage has already been done to the new turbo. Oil leaks from that area from where specifically idk. I installed two catch cans (one on each side of the motor) to help keep it from entering the combustion process.

I'm new to the car so I can't really tell if the thing is running poor/slow or normal/slow. I need to get a boost gauge.

Also, another weird thing it did tonight. The tripometers reset themselves. While I was driving I watched it go to zero and start over. Weird.
 
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