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Anybody having some serious clicks/pops coming from the front suspension while turning a low speed, and going over bumps? I've quadruple checked everything, and all is tight, preload is good, sway bar clearance is good, etc.
 

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Anybody having some serious clicks/pops coming from the front suspension while turning a low speed, and going over bumps? I've quadruple checked everything, and all is tight, preload is good, sway bar clearance is good, etc.
How did u set the preload prior to install?
 

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Quick question about ride quality on the Comp coilovers:
I currently have mine set up at 9 front and 5 rear. They ride great on smooth roads but horrible when hitting bumps. Every time i hit a bump, theres a veryyyy audible thump and violent jolt to the whole vehicle. These are not anywhere near the stock suspension in terms of absorbing bumps but i will say they are near stock only on smooth roads.
I've adjusted the front all the way from from full soft to full hard and everything in between. No matter what i put it on, the bumps still rock the whole car. The only difference i feel in adjusting damping is how bouncy the ride is. The rears have been on 5 since installation. preload wise, i was initially at "Zero" and now i'm a bit negative.

anybody know why this is happening? most other people make it seem like this suspension absorbs potholes and bumps very smoothly.
 

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I would say ride height will have ALOT to do with it, more so with the comps..... If you are slammed then u could be hitting the stops. I'm only lowered like 1 3/4" max I think. If I'm at 6/12 all around it starts to get harsh but still dam good and handles amaze balls... I usually ride at 5/12 all around and it's perfect ride quality (actually every click with these makes a big big difference)..... Going to low for me will start to mess with the control arm angles being too low and affect handling negatively, I am going to be tracking the car..... The one to ask would be Iced coffee.... He's is slammed but from I hear loves his..... Also the whole preload thing with these I think is very touchy, I don't want much if any, and want it even all around.....
 

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And I've got an r spec.... The stock suspension always jolted me on big bumps, to me it's about the same as far as that goes, sure as he'll ain't no caddy lolz
 

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I would say ride height will have ALOT to do with it, more so with the comps..... If you are slammed then u could be hitting the stops. I'm only lowered like 1 3/4" max I think. If I'm at 6/12 all around it starts to get harsh but still dam good and handles amaze balls... I usually ride at 5/12 all around and it's perfect ride quality (actually every click with these makes a big big difference)..... Going to low for me will start to mess with the control arm angles being too low and affect handling negatively, I am going to be tracking the car..... The one to ask would be Iced coffee.... He's is slammed but from I hear loves his..... Also the whole preload thing with these I think is very touchy, I don't want much if any, and want it even all around.....
cool i'll wait for him to answer. I'm def not slammed though. Fender is right at the lip of the tire all around. i'm gonna play with the preload tomorrow and see if that affects anything.
 

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I would say ride height will have ALOT to do with it, more so with the comps..... If you are slammed then u could be hitting the stops. I'm only lowered like 1 3/4" max I think. If I'm at 6/12 all around it starts to get harsh but still dam good and handles amaze balls... I usually ride at 5/12 all around and it's perfect ride quality (actually every click with these makes a big big difference)..... Going to low for me will start to mess with the control arm angles being too low and affect handling negatively, I am going to be tracking the car..... The one to ask would be Iced coffee.... He's is slammed but from I hear loves his..... Also the whole preload thing with these I think is very touchy, I don't want much if any, and want it even all around.....
cool i'll wait for him to answer. I'm def not slammed though. Fender is right at the lip of the tire all around. i'm gonna play with the preload tomorrow and see if that affects anything.
I don't know if will help but a few pages back I think I posted what I did for preload with some actual measurments and it's been great for me..... I would try that (obviously with the spring uncompressed and wheel in the air).... Then set everything to full soft (assuming u have access to your. Rear adjustment Allen's?) then set at like 4/12 all around and drive it..... Then just fine tune from there.... If u don't have access to your rears, I also posted some measurements to cut the access points , inertiamonster used them to cut his holes and they worked ;)
 

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I don't know if will help but a few pages back I think I posted what I did for preload with some actual measurments and it's been great for me..... I would try that (obviously with the spring uncompressed and wheel in the air).... Then set everything to full soft (assuming u have access to your. Rear adjustment Allen's?) then set at like 4/12 all around and drive it..... Then just fine tune from there.... If u don't have access to your rears, I also posted some measurements to cut the access points , inertiamonster used them to cut his holes and they worked ;)
thanks ill try that. What's the point of first setting to full soft, then to 4/12? why not go straight from where i am to 4/12?
 

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To make sure that u have a "zero reference point" to start at..... When u get to full hard or full soft u cant turn the keys anymore clicks. So then just count from there..... When I first installed mine I thought I was at. 5/12 front and 6/12 rear.... Then I checked to make sure by going all full soft and realized I was actually at, after counting the clicks backwards, like 9/12 front and 11/12 rear????? Haha noob mistake (that first test drive was rough)... I was just glad I checked right away. In my case I didn't have a good feel for the clicks, took me a Little practice and opening of the rear access holes to nail it down. Now I can do all four corners in about 1 minute ;)
 

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To make sure that u have a "zero reference point" to start at..... When u get to full hard or full soft u cant turn the keys anymore clicks. So then just count from there..... When I first installed mine I thought I was at. 5/12 front and 6/12 rear.... Then I checked to make sure by going all full soft and realized I was actually at, after counting the clicks backwards, like 9/12 front and 11/12 rear????? Haha noob mistake (that first test drive was rough)... I was just glad I checked right away. In my case I didn't have a good feel for the clicks, took me a Little practice and opening of the rear access holes to nail it down. Now I can do all four corners in about 1 minute ;)
oh ok i see. another question: how the heck did you take out the trunk liner to expose the metal?? i took out the tabs near the tail lights as well as the phillips head screws on the bottom but its not coming out
 

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1. Take out the trunk floor cover
2. Remove the plastic cover (red box) there are two screws at it's base, once removed gently pull up on it, it'll snap out of place
3. Remove all the plastic rivets (yellow boxes), I think there's four or five on each side, one is tricky to spot, once removed gently pull the liner out from under the rubber weather seal around the trunk opening
4. Remove the two screws per side (green circles)
5. Work the far ends of the liners out from behind the plastic molding around the cargo pass through (orange boxes)



Once you do those steps carefully work the liners out from the side of the car.
 

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1. Take out the trunk floor cover
2. Remove the plastic cover (red box) there are two screws at it's base, once removed gently pull up on it, it'll snap out of place
3. Remove all the plastic rivets (yellow boxes), I think there's four or five on each side, one is tricky to spot, once removed gently pull the liner out from under the rubber weather seal around the trunk opening
4. Remove the two screws per side (green circles)
5. Work the far ends of the liners out from behind the plastic molding around the cargo pass through (orange boxes)



Once you do those steps carefully work the liners out from the side of the car.
you're the man
 

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1. Take out the trunk floor cover
2. Remove the plastic cover (red box) there are two screws at it's base, once removed gently pull up on it, it'll snap out of place
3. Remove all the plastic rivets (yellow boxes), I think there's four or five on each side, one is tricky to spot, once removed gently pull the liner out from under the rubber weather seal around the trunk opening
4. Remove the two screws per side (green circles)
5. Work the far ends of the liners out from behind the plastic molding around the cargo pass through (orange boxes)



Once you do those steps carefully work the liners out from the side of the car.
Nice work there :)
 

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i think i know what the problem with my ride is:
whenever i take out the rear suspension, i loosen the nut on the control arm so that the arm can drop freely and release the shock. When i put the shock back in, i raise the control arm and then torque the nut while the car is still in the air and the suspension is at full droop. After a quick google search, i've learned that the nut on the control arm should be torques with the car on the ground. Im not sure if that even correct though. Can someone confirm? If so, how the heck do i even reach it with the car on the ground??
Here's a picture of the nuts that im talking about circled in red

image upload no resize
 

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You don't have to touch those bolts to remove the rear springs, they're also the adjustment for rear camber so you're potentially throwing that all out whack too by touching them.
 

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You don't have to touch those bolts to remove the rear springs, they're also the adjustment for rear camber so you're potentially throwing that all out whack too by touching them.
i dont touch the bolts. i just loosen the nuts
 

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Same difference. It's essentially a camber bolt so if you loosen it and then move the arm it's most likely going to move out of position and change the camber, assuming you're keeping a similar ride height by leaving it alone you'll be close to the same camber when you're done. If you don't touch it there's still plenty of movement in the arm to get the spring out, just push down on the arm with your foot.
 

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Wait I am assuming that picture is not ur car with rear springs installed??? Guess I was confused when saying u r removing the rear springs u mean the coilover assembly not those red springs? Just want to make sure nobody gets confused. The PSM rear coils are one assembly spring and shock, there is not supposed to be a seperate spring, those are removed in the rears..... Obviously having those in there and the psm coilovers together, would give you a messed up ride haha..... And the beauty of these rear coils is they don't have to be removed to adjust, just get the wheels in the air and adjust away ;)
 

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I was sure he did, just wAnted to put that in there for others who might be researching this thread...... :)
 
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