proper winter storage

3655 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by vinknee, Jan 23, 2011

Brenden1669

Discussion Starter · Jan 20, 2011

So if you are like me and have a shelter for your gen in the winter but its just a roof with no walls and obv not heated how do you store the car? reason asking is i have done this for 2 winters, throw a cover on it and start it 1 time a month and let it run for 10 minutes, except went to start it yesterday and the battery didnt have enough juice to unlock the doors. do most people remove the battery? i was told not to do that at the dealer because the little anti rust thing uses the battery to do its job?

HELP>>>>>>>>>:dunno:

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cowcow

· #2 · Jan 20, 2011

If you don't drive the car, you won't get rust on the car anyways because there's no salt water being thrown on the underbody of the car.

Also, you don't need to start the car every month. Just do a pre-winter prep before you put the car away and leave it there till spring.

Best would be to do:

Final pre-winter wash/wax
Throw car cover on
Lower air pressure in tires (to eliminate flat spots)
Remove battery and store inside and use a battery tender

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Spool2Go

· #3 · Jan 20, 2011

don't forget to fill ur gas tank all the way and use fuel stabilizer since the gas will be sitting for 6 months. And don't start the car, condensation is gonna build up in ur exhaust.

Kinda a little late to be asking these questions lol

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Lauren

· #4 · Jan 20, 2011 (Edited)

Search is your friend. This thread is VERY informative!

http://www.gencoupe.com/canada/47437-storage-winter.html

Here's my blurb from the other thread:

Mine is currently in a huge storage shed in the boonies.

I didn't bother doing an oil change - like Slider said, what's the point, just wasting my money.

• I washed her one last time (froze my ass off doing it), brought her blanket and parked her.

• The place is NOT protected from the cold or little animals, so I have (counts on fingers and toes) 14 poison blocks around the car and gross pine scented moth balls underneath.

• Makes no sense to put cloth in the tail pipes (dur, mice can chew it), someone suggested steel wool, so I jammed those in each of her holes and a bundle in the air intake.

• Left the window down just a TINY bit

• put her in gear, wise to NOT leave the e-brake engaged if you have a manual

• took everything out of the car and disconnected the battery.

FYI - Don't bother starting it, there's the issue that was mentioned prior with the car not really getting rid of the moisture and also, if you're parking your Genesis in a spot that mice would fancy, why entice them more with a nice warm car?

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Brenden1669

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jan 21, 2011

yes a little late i agree, but some good valid point that i will definitely to a better job of winterizing my gen coupe next year, i never thought about flat spots on the tires, thanks for the info

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MiraBluecoupe

· #6 · Jan 21, 2011

The place where mine is stored is in an underground. I go to it once/week to start it up and drive it around in the underground for a good 15 minutes.
I washed it before storing, but unfortuantely the day that I was driving it over it was raining.

Waiting for my detailer to get back to me so that I can throw a cover on it.

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brad

· #7 · Jan 22, 2011

You really have three options:

1. Disconnect Battery
2. Buy and use Trickle Charger
3. Periodically Charge Battery

Option 1 works well, but you should still periodically check the battery and probably give it a charge during the winter.

Option 2 is the best actually, even if you disconnect the battery and just keep it hooked to the Trickle Charger. Your battery will last longer this way to.

The only reason that you really need it connected over the winter is if your car has one of those anti-rust electronic devices attached to it. I seriously doubt that the Genesis would come with one of those standard, so you would likely need it if the dealer installed it for you. If your car does have one of these devices, get a trickle charger and hook it up to your car.

Myself I just disconnect the battery and periodically (every month) check the voltage and charge if required.

Oh, and +1000 to not starting it. You really need to drive it for 20 minutes on the street in order to get the car up to a high enough temperature to burn off the crap that condenses in all of your fluids. In general, you're better off doing a full oil change, full tank, stabal in the Winter. De-Winterizing I would always do another full oil change, and drain the tank and put in fresh gas. The whole fresh gas really just depends on how long you plan to store it, just a winter and I wouldn't worry about it.

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Lauren

· #8 · Jan 23, 2011

I haven't even gone to visit my car since November... I really should....

I'll probably be caressing her front end for a few hours though....

Might be a bad idea.

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vinknee

· #9 · Jan 23, 2011

Lauren said:
I haven't even gone to visit my car since November... I really should....

I'll probably be caressing her front end for a few hours though....

Might be a bad idea.

bring gummy bears :rofl:

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