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Hello , so I’m getting a code saying “ too lean on idle bank 1.” And I’m amusing my manifold is leaking from what I’ve seen. Correct me if I’m wrong I heard the stock manifolds aren’t good either way so thinking of replacing it. Could y’all link me to manifolds that can fit my stock turbo and if you guys have them tell me your experience. Thank you, everything is appreciated I just got this car a couple months ago.
 

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If it's leaking is most likely between the gaskets, I never seen one that cracked.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
 

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Hello , so I’m getting a code saying “ too lean on idle bank 1.” And I’m amusing my manifold is leaking from what I’ve seen. Correct me if I’m wrong I heard the stock manifolds aren’t good either way so thinking of replacing it. Could y’all link me to manifolds that can fit my stock turbo and if you guys have them tell me your experience. Thank you, everything is appreciated I just got this car a couple months ago.
The OEM manifolds are great. They just aren't good for higher power.
 

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No... the BK1 manifold is just horrible.
the manifold required the minimal amount of effort to design.
It works, it doesn't crack. It is a good manifold. It serves it's only purpose well.
 

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It works, it doesn't crack. It is a good manifold. It serves it's only purpose well.
No it isn't...
It's basically a log.
Intake manifold design, fuel rail design and location of the collector, are the reasons why the no4 cylinder ALWAYS runs lean.
If the collector was on the other side, there would be more back pressure on no4 to help with it leaning out.
It's designed with "just to make things fit" kind of engineering (using the term engineering loosely)
Show me any other log manifolds that are considered "good"


And since when are manifolds "suppose" to crack.
A manifold that cracks is bad; but a manifold that doesn't crack, doesn't mean it's a good manifold
This is what a somewhat good cast iron manifold is suppose to look like.
 

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No it isn't...
It's basically a log.
Intake manifold design, fuel rail design and location of the collector, are the reasons why the no4 cylinder ALWAYS runs lean.
If the collector was on the other side, there would be more back pressure on no4 to help with it leaning out.
It's designed with "just to make things fit" kind of engineering (using the term engineering loosely)
Show me any other log manifolds that are considered "good"


And since when are manifolds "suppose" to crack.
A manifold that cracks is bad; but a manifold that doesn't crack, doesn't mean it's a good manifold
This is what a somewhat good cast iron manifold is suppose to look like.
Ok what are we even talking about now? You are talking about the intake manifold and sending pics of an aftermarket exhaust manifold?
 

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Ok what are we even talking about now? You are talking about the intake manifold and sending pics of an aftermarket exhaust manifold?
You don't even know what you are talking about, if you don't understand what I posted earlier...
Just about EVERYTHING in an engine has to work together
Let me hold your hand and walk you through this.

(FYI all pics taken off of ebay listing)


NUMBER 4 cylinder ALWAYS runs LEAN.
Reasons:
Intake manifold - Look at it. Even though the plenum is tiny, they managed to have the air path have almost a straight shot to the number 4 cylinder. Yet made it so the air has to basically do a 180 to reach the number 1 cylinder.
Fuel rail - Returnless fueling system (no return line). Where does the fuel enter the fuel rail? From the center. Given the point above It would make more sense to have the inlet of the fuel rail, enter from the rear of the rail, as it sees the most pressure. This would mean, more fuel to the cylinder getting the most air.



Exhaust manifold
Now lets take a look at the exhaust manifold.
You see where the collector is? (not going to explain what a collector is, in terms of exhaust)
Unequal length runners, means uneven exhaust pulses, meaning loss of potential power.
The runners aren't even directed towards the collector.
Now with everything I said about the intake side, look at the exhaust manifold.
The rear cylinders are more free flowing than the front cylinders.
If the turbo and collector were moved forward, it would cause a slight bit more back pressure for the rear cylinders, negating some issues of the rear cylinders running lean.
THIS is why no one reputable makes a "log" type manifold.

The reason why some manifolds crack is because a combination of the following:
Sh!tty welding (a large number of issues with this. not going into)
Stress because of weight (a turbo hanging off of it without added support)
Incorrect material used (alloy type and/or thickness)
incorrect tempering/cooling (applies to both welded or cast manifolds)
Welding onto cast iron AKA welding a normal manifold into a turbo manifold. (different alloys welded together don't like to stay together for long, especially when heat cycles are involved)

 

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You don't even know what you are talking about, if you don't understand what I posted earlier...
Just about EVERYTHING in an engine has to work together
Let me hold your hand and walk you through this.

(FYI all pics taken off of ebay listing)


NUMBER 4 cylinder ALWAYS runs LEAN.
Reasons:
Intake manifold - Look at it. Even though the plenum is tiny, they managed to have the air path have almost a straight shot to the number 4 cylinder. Yet made it so the air has to basically do a 180 to reach the number 1 cylinder.
Fuel rail - Returnless fueling system (no return line). Where does the fuel enter the fuel rail? From the center. Given the point above It would make more sense to have the inlet of the fuel rail, enter from the rear of the rail, as it sees the most pressure. This would mean, more fuel to the cylinder getting the most air.



Exhaust manifold
Now lets take a look at the exhaust manifold.
You see where the collector is? (not going to explain what a collector is, in terms of exhaust)
Unequal length runners, means uneven exhaust pulses, meaning loss of potential power.
The runners aren't even directed towards the collector.
Now with everything I said about the intake side, look at the exhaust manifold.
The rear cylinders are more free flowing than the front cylinders.
If the turbo and collector were moved forward, it would cause a slight bit more back pressure for the rear cylinders, negating some issues of the rear cylinders running lean.
THIS is why no one reputable makes a "log" type manifold.

The reason why some manifolds crack is because a combination of the following:
Sh!tty welding (a large number of issues with this. not going into)
Stress because of weight (a turbo hanging off of it without added support)
Incorrect material used (alloy type and/or thickness)
incorrect tempering/cooling (applies to both welded or cast manifolds)
Welding onto cast iron AKA welding a normal manifold into a turbo manifold. (different alloys welded together don't like to stay together for long, especially when heat cycles are involved)

Not worth the argument.
 

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The OEM manifolds are great. They just aren't good for higher power.
This is why I responded...
MANY people have windowed their engines, because of hyundai's poor understanding of flow dynamics.

Look at the 2.0 kia stinger and BK2 exhaust manifolds are drastically different.
The kia stinger intake manifold is drastically different with a weird ITB setup with an individual TB.
 

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This is why I responded...
MANY people have windowed their engines, because of hyundai's poor understanding of flow dynamics.

Look at the 2.0 kia stinger and BK2 exhaust manifolds are drastically different.
The kia stinger intake manifold is drastically different with a weird ITB setup with an individual TB.
I'm fully aware of the cyl4 lean issue with the intake manifold. I get that it is a poor design, thus the need to port it etc.
All I was trying to say is that objectively, the exhaust manifold does it's purpose well. Some manufacturers have OEM manifolds that crack etc.
Man I respect your knowledge and I think that you have done a lot of cool things. But your attitude has really started to rub me the wrong way on the forums. You misunderstood one thing I said and went full narcissistic teacher on me. All I ask is for a little respect. For discussions sake, I think you need to portray yourself a bit friendlier.
 

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I'm fully aware of the cyl4 lean issue with the intake manifold. I get that it is a poor design, thus the need to port it etc.
All I was trying to say is that objectively, the exhaust manifold does it's purpose well. Some manufacturers have OEM manifolds that crack etc.
Man I respect your knowledge and I think that you have done a lot of cool things. But your attitude has really started to rub me the wrong way on the forums. You misunderstood one thing I said and went full narcissistic teacher on me. All I ask is for a little respect. For discussions sake, I think you need to portray yourself a bit friendlier.
Manifold does what it it's suppose to do... but not well.
Notice on the BK2, they basically kept the same intake manifold design, but made it out of plastic; yet changed everything on the exhaust side...🤔
How many BK2 2.0 engines popped in comparison to BK1s....

I rather have a cracked manifold, than an engine with a window in the side of it 🤷‍♂️
 

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Manifold does what it it's suppose to do... but not well.
You know what, I'll take that.
It works, but not Ideal.

Lets just get along man. I have an opinion, you have got yours. It is all good with me if we can just be friends.
 

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Notice on the BK2, they basically kept the same intake manifold design, but made it out of plastic; yet changed everything on the exhaust side...🤔
How many BK2 2.0 engines popped in comparison to BK1s....
As for these. I think that you know as well as I do that the exhaust side was changed because the turbo was flawed, not the manifold.
As for BK1s blowing way more motors? 100% correct. Although how many were actually caused by the manifold? A majority are from timing or the weak rods.
 
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