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Discussion Starter #1
So I am at the point where I have driven enough stockish (2013 3.8 MT Track) that I want to start modding. At this point I know I want to get the sub-frame collars as there seems to be some sway in the car. (maybe the tires?)
My original plan after this was to get the Megan tran mount and ATQ sts w/ bushings. After thinking about it for a while I'm now thinking that I don't really have a problem with the longer throw. It's a little bit notchy but it sits right in line with my coffee mug and is pretty comfy. I occasionally open it up and get locked out of 2nd. Sooo, my question is will the Torque solutions bushing + rear along with the trans mount clear things up noticeably? It's not the change in the shifter that makes the big difference right?
I'm also going with the R2C hot air intake just because I've always wanted one on my car. Looks cool and the sound is supposed to be pretty nice. Not expecting any type of gains from it.
Future mods:
Exhaust, Prob ARK GRiP V2
Tint
Tune, would love to now but can't be without my car for longer than a weekend.
Lowering is out but would be nice if we move. I barely make the driveway stock.
Brake pads, EBC Red stuff most likely.


TLDR; Is it the shifter that makes the big difference in the MT feel or can I get away with bushings and a tran mount? That should take away a bit of the notchy feel and prevent gear lockout right? (Will change trans fluids as well. I'm assuming it's still OG fluid as I bought the car with 70K)

Thanks
 

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2nd gear lockout is caused exclusively by the weak drivetrain mounts. This was a problem on the Genesis Coupe even when it was brand-new, the mounts were just inadequate from the factory. Hard driving on V6 manual trans cars results in severe torque reactions that cause massive deflection in the drivetrain. This also causes most of the nasty-feeling shift quality and a lot of durability problems with the transmission itself. Many broken manual transmissions on these cars have died because of the mounts, not because there was anything wrong with the gearbox itself.

Going to an upgraded short-shifter will make a very small difference in comparison with upgraded mounts. You might as well skip the shifter until mounts are installed. If it feels good to you and you don't mind the taller height/longer throws then just save yourself the $200+ and skip the shifter.

Most of the problems with the drivetrain deflection originate at the front of the car. Therefore, upgraded differential mounts do basically nothing to improve the shift quality, though they do reduce clunking and unpleasantness from the diff itself which is nice. Diff mounts also improve mechanical grip, especially from a standing start.

On Project Hoondy (2010 V6 MT), we went to a Megan Racing transmission mount first. That improved shifter feel but did not fully solve the 2nd gear lock-out issue. The only true solution, for us at least, was going to uprated engine mounts. We went with the now-discontinued CP-E mounts which totally transformed the driving experience. It felt like a whole new car.

Do not be surprised if you do the trans and diff mounts and still experience 2nd gear lock-out or nasty shifter feel during hard driving. Granted, that depends on how hard you drive your car. Some owners never notice the 2nd gear lock-out because, well, they drive like pansies. Project Hoondy gets the piss driven out of it on a regular basis, so we went for the full-monty when it came to mounts. Unfortunately, there is no after-market engine mount solution for the BK2 cars (2013+).

A decent stop-gap solution would be to modify a Megan Racing transmission mount to make it even firmer. A cheap, easy, and effective way to do this is to fill the voids in the trans mount with 3M Window Weld:



Window Weld is a one-part urethane with high adhesion and excellent mechanical toughness. A very common off-label use for it is to fill the voids in rubber engine mounts to make them much stronger without crossing the line into a mount that is too stiff for the street. I've seen this trick work well on everything from import tuner cars to V8 muscle. You could also inject Window Weld into a fresh set of OEM engine mounts for a better-than-stock solution.

Put it this way: for just a little more money than that ATQ short shifter you could buy a new set of OEM motor mounts and fill them with Window Weld. That would make a much larger difference in performance and shift feel than any short shifter kit.

And now, for funsies, I'm going to follow up that super-factual information with a personal opinion:

ARK exhaust kits are over-priced and their quality is mediocre at best. The mufflers are very rudimentary and their X-pipes (where most potential performance gains are to be had) are nasty little turbulence-generating crap-boxes that are no better than the el-cheapo stamped units that Magnaflow spits out by the thousand.

ARK X-pipe:



Magnaflow X-pipe:



Legit X-pipe:



In general, be wary of any exhaust kit sold as "stainless steel" that is highly polished. Heavy polishing can hide many sins including iffy welds and materials. Go look at a high-end stainless exhaust system from a company that does a lot of business in motorsport like Burns Stainless, SpinTech, Vibrant, or Kooks. You will never see heavy polishing on their tubing because polishing is a needless additional expense. Real stainless is beautiful, functional, and corrosion-resistant without any polishing work whatsoever.

Just my $0.02 on the exhaust stuff, and plenty of folks will argue about it. The mounts, on the other hand, are a well-established issue.

Happy tuning!
 

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'13 3.8 Track
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I would say the Magnaflow X-pipe is better than the Ark...but I have no experience with Ark. I totally dig the sound from the Magnaflow, and I definitely felt an improvement.

I've got the A/T, so can't comment on any of your drivetrain mods. I added the subframe collars and felt barely any difference. Very well could have been the placebo effect. But, while adding them I did see how large the holes were, so I'm sure it helped at least somewhat.

Tint - yes, get tint. You should've done this the first weekend you owned the car. ;)

EBC Brake pads are fantastic, although I've heard that Reds squeal a lot. I have Yellowstuffs and once they were broken in, they were silent and gripped much better than stock pads. Lots of dust with any good pad, though, so be aware.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the responses.

I will look into filling the motor mounts. I did pick up an engine leash recently. You think that plus the Megan trans mount would get me close? Not sure how well the leash prevents movement as I've never physically looked at it while revving but the concept seemed OK and the price was pretty low.

The exhaust info is good to know. I haven't really looked into any exhaust yet. That pick was based off of YouTube sound and I figured if I saved for that one, my options were pretty wide. Still pretty far out though.
@lostpilot28, you really didn't notice a big difference with the collars? Hmm maybe it is the tires (Toyo Proxes T1 ) or I'm just not used to a car like this. Funny, I picked the EBC red because I heard they squeal less. Got time to look though as there is still plenty of life left on whatever is in there now. Tint was going to be first but with the solar glass it doesn't seem to get as hot as my other cars so it kept falling down the list.

So as it stands, I've got about ~$600 to spend minus the hot air intake. Megan trans mount sounds good. Leaving roughly $250 for ???? Subframe collars and stock filled engine mounts?

Honestly reading Strange's post has me thinking I should take it easy before I break something. Upgrade engine and trans mount then the weak point moves to the diff? More wear on the clutch prob?

Plenty to think about and research I guess.

If any one else has .02 cents to add, feel free. Especially about the subframe collars on 70K plus gen's.
 

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I need that legit X pipe for my 2015 Genesis!!
It's made by SpinTech. It is a 2-1/4 inch round junction-only narrow-style X-pipe in 304 stainless steel. The great thing about SpinTech X-pipes is they are always made to order. That means they will custom-build an X-pipe to your exact specifications for no extra charge! The custom dimensions were critical for getting such a fat, high-flow "siamesed" X-pipe to fit in the narrow confines of a Genesis Coupe driveshaft tunnel. Fits like a glove:

 

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I did pick up an engine leash recently.
The engine leash is a good band-aid solution to this problem. It is far from perfect though. Even with the leash holding the top of the engine still, the bottom of the engine is free to move around within the confines of the motor mount's travel (which is substantial). Also, make sure the leash is tight. If there is any slack in the cable your engine will build up momentum when it moves then "WHAM!" reach the end of the leash and stop abruptly. That sort of impact can't be good for any part of your drivetrain. Gives me the willies just thinking about it.

Urethane-filled engine mounts will always be a more robust solution, but they're more expensive and more difficult to install so that's as it should be.

You think that plus the Megan trans mount would get me close?
It's a solid step in the right direction. Shift feel during hard driving will definitely improve significantly, just don't be surprised if that 2nd gear lockout doesn't totally disappear. Like I said, you could try filling the voids in the Megan trans mount with window weld to get you some extra stiffness. For only $20 there's not much reason not to.

@lostpilot28, you really didn't notice a big difference with the collars?
I for one will advocate the hell out of subframe mounting collars. We installed a set on Project Hoondy early on, and they have only helped more and more as we gradually stiffened up the drivetrain. I think they make a bigger difference on manual trans cars. You just feel the drivetrain more with a manual. Positively locating the rear subframe is a big deal on these cars and several owners have gone to great lengths to make improvements in that area. Some have even taken to installing the bigger, badder, more heavy-duty rear subframe from the Genesis Sedan!

The subframe mounting collars might be a subtle upgrade, but they are so cheap and easy to install it's a bit nuts not to go for them, at least on an MT car.

So as it stands, I've got about ~$600 to spend minus the hot air intake. Megan trans mount sounds good. Leaving roughly $250 for ???? Subframe collars and stock filled engine mounts?
Focusing on mounts first is the SMART way to go. Not only is it a performance improvement, but a major durability improvement as well. Intake, exhaust, and tune will do nothing to help your car stay healthy for longer. Get that improved durability first, then go for increased power mods. Your car will thank you.

Upgrade engine and trans mount then the weak point moves to the diff?
Once the engine and trans are stiffened up then, yes, the weak stock diff mount situation will become more obvious. There are a few ways to fix it. You can go with after-market urethane mounts which are effective, but pretty harsh. After a ton of research, we went with a dual-OEM mount on Project Hoondy:



This, I think, is the most elegent, street-oriented solution. You get no added harshness or other NVH, just vastly improved control off the diff location. This solution does require light modification of the subframe though. You have to trim the right-hand mount hole to make it big enough for an OEM mount to fit. Others who have done this mod have opted to weld a sleeve over the enlarged hole to more positively locate the mount. We didn't bother with that and, after 8 months of driving on it, skipping that step doesn't appear to have done any harm.

We did paint over the bare metal that was exposed from our cuts though. A few coats of black enamel will prevent future rust if you go that route.

More wear on the clutch prob?
Nahh, drivetrain movement isn't a zero-sum game. Restricting the movement/vibration won't create more wear on your clutch. Locking down the drivetrain does nothing but help the car's durability. The only reason you might get increased clutch wear with better mounts is because you'll drive the car harder when it feels so much better, haha.

Honestly reading Strange's post has me thinking I should take it easy before I break something.
You can totally break these cars through hard driving alone. This forum is littered with the bodies of exploded gearboxes and ruined CV joints. Hard launches can be especially destructive. Going full-throttle from a rolling start is much easier on the car. I would definitely recommend not going bananas until you get the drivetrain locked down. Once you do though, HIT IT, the GenCoupe loves hard driving with the right mods:


Happy tuning!
 

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I would say the Magnaflow X-pipe is better than the Ark...
The Magnaflow X-pipe has a better shape, anyway. It's longer with smoother transitions. The outlets on the Ark x-pipe have that really knarly J-hook action to them.

I'd say Magnaflow, Borla and Stillen all make off-the-shelf catback exhaust systems with better X-pipe geometry than Ark does, and at a lower price to boot.

What would be really cool is taking a CP-E true-dual exhaust kit, cutting it up a little, and welding in a super-legit X-pipe right behind the secondary cats:



Off-the-shelf V6 CP-E catback kits have no exhaust crossover at all. That's not great for performance, but I think they did it because they offer a longtube header with X-pipe kit. If you didn't want to mess with headers (very expensive, low power gains, PITA to install) it would be really easy to mod a super-legit SpinTech or equivilent X-pipe into CP-E's catback system. That would get you killer flow, great sound, %100 304 stainless steel durability, and would cost about the same as the Ark Grip, even if you paid a shop to do the X-pipe mod for you.

We went down the road of a full custom catback exhaust for Project Hoondy, but looking back, an X-pipe modded CP-E kit would have gotten us really similar performance results for a lot less money. That said, I'm not sure we could give up this sweet sound:


Awwww yeaaaaa!
 

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'13 3.8 Track
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OK, saying that I felt barely any difference was downplaying the subframe collars a bit. I did feel a difference, and it was noticeable...just not earth shattering. I think I got my expectations up after reading some reviews on here that stated it was a night & day difference. I will say that steering is more crisp...and you're right that it's so inexpensive it doesn't make sense NOT to do it. Wonder why Hyundai just doesn't install them in the factory.

For exhaust, I actually did install headers a few weeks ago, but have only driven for less than 30 minutes with them. I can feel a difference, and it's got a better sound to it. For the Xpipe, it makes me wonder if there's a measurable difference in HP between the Legit brand and others.

Good info, Strange. Thanks!
 

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personally love the ark grip exhaust in terms of sound, build quality, and torque gains. The issue with them is with clearance against the driveshaft to diff coupler and the low hanging cannisters. You can adjust the exhaust to avoid clearance against body and driveshaft, but the low hanging cannisters on speed bumps will rek the exhaust.
 

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also, the transmission feel is improved with a short shifter and shifter linkage bushings, fluid change as u've suggested, but it doesn't fix the notchiness/sloppy gear shifts
 

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Cone Killa
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When I changed my transmission fluid to ACDelco Synchromesh I noticed a big difference in shifting smoothness. Just about cured my 5th gear grind and made my 6th not grind as bad. I bought a Megan transmission mount and was psyched to get it on only to find that my car already had one. Put the new one on and noticed no difference, still wasn't happy with the drivetrain movement. I would definitely try filling it with poly/window weld. Holding off on engine mounts unless I find a deal on some CP-E units. Engine leash definitely helped but I find that they stretch over time and lose the solid feel they give when fresh.

I have the shifter bushings waiting to install but am procrastinating because it seems like a bitch of an install. I do want a short shifter since the stock throws are so long, but I've read the the ATQ SS is the cream of the crop, but I can't justify throwing $200+ at it. Don't really want to waste time/money on a lesser shifter though so it's a tough spot to be in.

I didnt notice a difference with the subframe collars tbh, though I'm sure they are of benefit.

3rd OEM diff mount would be gangtser but that's uncharted waters for me so I'm weary of tackling the job. Really just working on the suspesion now as the car doesn't handle the way I want to.

Sharing this all since I was in a similar position as you and kinda wish I knew what I knew now back then.
 

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2013 3.8 Track
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Ark Grip is the best mod I've done. You get to enjoy it all the time, no matter how you're driving it, and with that sound the fun factor goes way up. I have the H-pipe, all this talk about X pipes is a bit mind numbing, H pipe is great. If you get the Ark, you will have the best, and you'll never think to yourself "if only I had gotten this other one instead..."
 

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I do want a short shifter since the stock throws are so long, but I've read the the ATQ SS is the cream of the crop, but I can't justify throwing $200+ at it. Don't really want to waste time/money on a lesser shifter though so it's a tough spot to be in.
BEWARE cheap, one-peice short-shifters. The Genesis Coupe comes with a two-peice, rubber-dampened shifter for a reason. If you go to a short-shifter, only buy a more expensive two-peice unit.

Why?


The dreaded shifter rattle, THAT'S why!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update: Work has been crazy but; I got the R2C intake installed and got the new fluids, Megan trans mount, and subframe collars on my desk. Going to do the 2nd diff mount after this round. The intake is kind of what I expected from doing my research. I almost feel like it lost a bit down low but up top it is noticeably more responsive. Most of my driving is highway. That heat soak though when around town. Woof. I do enjoy the quieter sound until about 3.5K. I like it better than the res tube sound. MPG is down as well. Will update when I do the next round of stuff on the desk. Thank you all again for the help and posting on this forum for people like me.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Once the engine and trans are stiffened up then, yes, the weak stock diff mount situation will become more obvious. There are a few ways to fix it. You can go with after-market urethane mounts which are effective, but pretty harsh. After a ton of research, we went with a dual-OEM mount on Project Hoondy:



This, I think, is the most elegent, street-oriented solution. You get no added harshness or other NVH, just vastly improved control off the diff location. This solution does require light modification of the subframe though. You have to trim the right-hand mount hole to make it big enough for an OEM mount to fit. Others who have done this mod have opted to weld a sleeve over the enlarged hole to more positively locate the mount. We didn't bother with that and, after 8 months of driving on it, skipping that step doesn't appear to have done any harm.

We did paint over the bare metal that was exposed from our cuts though. A few coats of black enamel will prevent future rust if you go that route.
What did you use to enlarge the hole for the added bushing?
 

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What did you use to enlarge the hole for the added bushing?
Air saw to rough it out and a die-grinder to smooth the edges. Made sure to cover the exposed metal with a couple coats of hard black enamel to prevent rust.

Honestly, the hole still ended up a bit ugly. You can see where the right mount is tweaked off center a little because placement wasn't %100 perfect. Still works great though. People shouldn't be so afraid of this mod as there is actually quite a lot of room for error.

I've heard of people using a hole saw to do it, I have no idea how though.
 
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