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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the the title states are there any reasons why a throw out bearing would blowout so prematurely?

Backstory: I'm still relatively new to owning a genesis coupe, it's a 2011 2.0t but when I bought the car the owner told me that the throw out was going out so surprise surprise it was done shown in the picture alone
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So changed that things seemed fine but the clutch never really felt firm and I bleed it a good couple of times along the way still not feeling like it was perfect so today I decided to drop the trans again and I see this
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But at this point I'm just wondering what could be causing this but also while down there I looked at the clutch it seemed fine till I grabbed the pressure plate and it wobbled side to side I want to say that can't be normal for any genesis let alone any car right
If anybody has some info it'd be greatly appreciated
 

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The "bearing" part - usually because people hold down the clutch at the light; instead of putting it in neutral, letting go of the clutch, and waiting for the light to change.
Doing this means the bearing is engaged with the pressure plate, the whole time the pedal is down....

For the slave part - have no idea

When you put in a new one (bearing and slave are one unit), be sure to fill the pipe with brake fluid and try to get any air out of the slave, before bolting it in and attaching it to the bleeder on the outside of the transmission. It's mighty hard to bleed that parts without doing that, as the slope of the tube from there to the bleeder is shallow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The "bearing" part - usually because people hold down the clutch at the light; instead of putting it in neutral, letting go of the clutch, and waiting for the light to change.
Doing this means the bearing is engaged with the pressure plate, the whole time the pedal is down....

For the slave part - have no idea

When you put in a new one (bearing and slave are one unit), be sure to fill the pipe with brake fluid and try to get any air out of the slave, before bolting it in and attaching it to the bleeder on the outside of the transmission. It's mighty hard to bleed that parts without doing that, as the slope of the tube from there to the bleeder is shallow.
I tried that the first time and It felt like the clutch pedal was as light as a Miata that I had at the time For the most part I haven't even driven it alot either probably no more than 300 since I bought it and even then I don't do high rev shifting or anything just casual driving I'm wonder if it's related to the clutch being wobbly when I shook it
 

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I push the clutch pedal in and hold it till the light turns green on three different manual transmission vehicles I have and on the three I had in the previous 30 years or so before these.

Does it have a pilot bushing? Or a pilot bearing? Not sure on a Coupe, but the other manual transmission cars I've owned had pilot bushings in the back end of the crankshaft to keep the transmission input shaft centered (which also helps keep the clutch plate flat between the flywheel and the pressure plate.

No, I've never seen a pressure plate move around. Isn't it bolted to the flywheel?

The clutch plate is the only things that moves (forwards/backwards) but it shouldn't have much, if any detectable side to side movement. With the pressure plate pulled back (when you step on the clutch pedal) the clutch plate can be wobbled a bit since it's just sitting/sliding on the splines of the input shaft.

Only time I've replaced a throw out bearing or a pilot bushing was when I was rebuilding a transmission. My F150 4WD went 251,000 miles on it's manual 5 speed with all original drivetrain components before I (stupidly) traded it off. My current truck (Silverado 1500 4WD) had 135,000 miles on it's all original manual 5 speed and drive train. My Coupe has 72,000 miles on it's 6 speed manual and original drive train.

If stuff is wearing out/falling apart after a very short time/miles it's very poor quality, installed wrong, or being abused. Not saying you abuse it, saying stuff lasts a long time, normally.
 

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Your 30 year old cars, had the bearing, clutch fork/arm, and clutch slave; all separate parts.

No pilot bearing in the crank.
IIRC it's part of the flywheel.
 

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The old Z28's didn't have hydraulic clutch assemblies. All manual linkage.

The bell housing and transmission had to be properly aligned with the engine block. They used dowel pins in the back of the block to insure alignment of the bell housing with the engine/flywheel. If you changed the bellhousing/transmission, you could get into alignment issues resulting in increased wear, noisy shifting, etc.

Has the OP changed transmissions? Even if it's done "better" now what's the possibility of alignment issue causing the increased wear/destruction of his throw out bearing assembly?

Now you've got me wondering if the improved manufacturing ideas are what has always caused my 6 speed. to grind going from 4th to 5th or straight to 6th at high rpm shift changes. The dealer flat refused to do anything about and told me it was a characteristic of the design and to just shift at a lower rpm. Kind of like the timing chain rattle on start up. Known problem, not a mechanical issue that will result in damage. My one and only Hyundai.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The old Z28's didn't have hydraulic clutch assemblies. All manual linkage.

The bell housing and transmission had to be properly aligned with the engine block. They used dowel pins in the back of the block to insure alignment of the bell housing with the engine/flywheel. If you changed the bellhousing/transmission, you could get into alignment issues resulting in increased wear, noisy shifting, etc.

Has the OP changed transmissions? Even if it's done "better" now what's the possibility of alignment issue causing the increased wear/destruction of his throw out bearing assembly?

Now you've got me wondering if the improved manufacturing ideas are what has always caused my 6 speed. to grind going from 4th to 5th or straight to 6th at high rpm shift changes. The dealer flat refused to do anything about and told me it was a characteristic of the design and to just shift at a lower rpm. Kind of like the timing chain rattle on start up. Known problem, not a mechanical issue that will result in damage. My one and only Hyundai.
I've only had the car for 4 months so besides changing the bearing once which was probably a rush job if I'm being honest nothing's really been changed besides oil and as far as I know that's the original trans but I ended up ordering another clutch and throw out should be here today depending on when it gets here and time it might go back in today and we'll see how it goes from there
 

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From looking closer at the photos, it looks like the bearing fail.

What probably happened, the bearing started to fail, then heated up, and seized, pulling all the seals.

When the bearing starts to fail, most people hear a grinding noise; like rolling marbles around, when engaging the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
From looking closer at the photos, it looks like the bearing fail.

What probably happened, the bearing started to fail, then heated up, and seized, pulling all the seals.

When the bearing starts to fail, most people hear a grinding noise; like rolling marbles around, when engaging the clutch.
My wonder is if it was all me and my driving or if it was just defective cause Im not too familiar with hydraulics slaves most of my cars have just been the bearing and a fork so maybe I'm not driving it right but probably less than 300 miles seems very premature to me even with bad clutch handling
 

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My guess is it was either defective or installed wrong. May have been a counterfeit or cheap eastern Asian part.
 

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My wonder is if it was all me and my driving or if it was just defective cause Im not too familiar with hydraulics slaves most of my cars have just been the bearing and a fork so maybe I'm not driving it right but probably less than 300 miles seems very premature to me even with bad clutch handling
Almost all manual transmission cars have hydraulic slave. If there is a clutch master cylinder, then there is a slave.

It's just on this car (and many euro cars over the last 10~20 years) the slave is part of the throw out bearing.

If you didn't notice any grinding, when you pressed the clutch, then it was likely it was already in that condition, or close to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My guess is it was either defective or installed wrong. May have been a counterfeit or cheap eastern Asian part.
I bought it off of genracer it's advertised as an exedy but when I got it the box said valeo and I called and they told me it was the same thing I wasn't gonna return it cause I needed a bearing right then but looking later I found a valeo for like 50 bucks cheaper so I was kinda irritated
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Almost all manual transmission cars have hydraulic slave. If there is a clutch master cylinder, then there is a slave.

It's just on this car (and many euro cars over the last 10~20 years) the slave is part of the throw out bearing.

If you didn't notice any grinding, when you pressed the clutch, then it was likely it was already in that condition, or close to it.
I meant like the slave and bearing being two different pieces but yeah I get you but yeah I didn't really hear a grind just really bad shaking and vibrations at idle but after seeing the pressure plate I can see that might have been half of the issue
 

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Valeo is legit. It's what I have now. Unless there are some cheap knockoffs these are rather specific slaves. Another Hyundai uses it too. But this particular one is a copy from the European designed (or maybe made by) make of the OE Porsche part. Sachs IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Valeo is legit. It's what I have now. Unless there are some cheap knockoffs these are rather specific slaves. Another Hyundai uses it too. But this particular one is a copy from the European designed (or maybe made by) make of the OE Porsche part. Sachs IIRC.
I guess from what it's worth they didn't give me some cheap knockoff
 

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I've only had the car for 4 months so besides changing the bearing once which was probably a rush job if I'm being honest nothing's really been changed besides oil and as far as I know that's the original trans but I ended up ordering another clutch and throw out should be here today depending on when it gets here and time it might go back in today and we'll see how it goes from there
Can you take that busted stuff back to the seller/vendor? I'd take some pictures of it, at least, contact them and send them the pictures.

Or even the maker of the parts. Sometimes, when a seller won't stand up for what they sell, the company that makes the part(s) will in order to maintain a good name on the internet/with do it your selfers and shops that might buy those same parts.

Good luck with it. Not having your car up and running sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Can you take that busted stuff back to the seller/vendor? I'd take some pictures of it, at least, contact them and send them the pictures.

Or even the maker of the parts. Sometimes, when a seller won't stand up for what they sell, the company that makes the part(s) will in order to maintain a good name on the internet/with do it your selfers and shops that might buy those same parts.

Good luck with it. Not having your car up and running sucks.
Well on genracer when I looked it said there was no warranty so that's out but since I was needing a new clutch too I just decided on getting a clutch and throw out combo buy cause I can't really wait on doing anything through valeo and that'd just solve one problem so just thought just get it all at once
 
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