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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So i took the plate off cause i got the new clutch it wasn't the plate that was wobbling it was the thing im holding in picture so thats apart of the dual mass flywheel? Am i going to have to change the whole flywheel?
77310
 

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Typically the springs in the flywheel break and it makes a lot of noise before it gets to that point. If you need a new flywheel then going OE BK2 clutch is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Typically the springs in the flywheel break and it makes a lot of noise before it gets to that point. If you need a new flywheel then going OE BK2 clutch is the way to go.
I already have the replacement clutch i was gonna put it in until i saw that so isthere any differences in a oe flywheel for the bk1 and bk2? Im assuming there both dual mass
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Yes BK2 is rated for more power as is the pressure plate and disc.
Mmm it probably be smart but thinking long term i want to bk2 swap the engine and trans since theyre both just better and have a higher hp then the bk1 im just looking for a good donor to pop to snag. Im probably just gonna get an bk1 oe flywheel but you dont know what torx size the flywheel bolts are do you red i gotta go out and buy the bit to pop it off with an impact
 

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As the the title states are there any reasons why a throw out bearing would blowout so prematurely?

Backstory: I'm still relatively new to owning a genesis coupe, it's a 2011 2.0t but when I bought the car the owner told me that the throw out was going out so surprise surprise it was done shown in the picture alone View attachment 77295
So changed that things seemed fine but the clutch never really felt firm and I bleed it a good couple of times along the way still not feeling like it was perfect so today I decided to drop the trans again and I see this View attachment 77296
But at this point I'm just wondering what could be causing this but also while down there I looked at the clutch it seemed fine till I grabbed the pressure plate and it wobbled side to side I want to say that can't be normal for any genesis let alone any car right
If anybody has some info it'd be greatly appreciated
As the the title states are there any reasons why a throw out bearing would blowout so prematurely?

Backstory: I'm still relatively new to owning a genesis coupe, it's a 2011 2.0t but when I bought the car the owner told me that the throw out was going out so surprise surprise it was done shown in the picture alone View attachment 77295
So changed that things seemed fine but the clutch never really felt firm and I bleed it a good couple of times along the way still not feeling like it was perfect so today I decided to drop the trans again and I see this View attachment 77296
But at this point I'm just wondering what could be causing this but also while down there I looked at the clutch it seemed fine till I grabbed the pressure plate and it wobbled side to side I want to say that can't be normal for any genesis let alone any car right
If anybody has some info it'd be greatly appreciated
some people keep their foot on the clutch pedal all the time applying enough pressure to contact the throw out bearing this is a very bad habit as it burns up the bearing.
 

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http://instagr.am/p/CPJNAx6nJuA/ well this could also be a good reason why but ill never know flywheel bolts size on a 2011 2.0t are t60 for future reference for anybody in the future
IIRC when I replaced my engine the bolts 12 point, not a torq bolt... Could be wrong.
I have new flywheel bolts waiting to be installed on the block that I'm rebuilding. I'll go check when I have time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
IIRC when I replaced my engine the bolts 12 point, not a torq bolt... Could be wrong.
I have new flywheel bolts waiting to be installed on the block that I'm rebuilding. I'll go check when I have time.
Is it a bk1 block? but if they are 12 point do let me know the part number because i do not want to put torx back in there haha
 

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Is it a bk1 block? but if they are 12 point do let me know the part number because i do not want to put torx back in there haha
I was mistaken. When I looked the bolts, I had ordered years ago, they seemed shorter than I expected.
I believe they are for a flex plate, not a flywheel. (flex plate bolt PN: 42121-4C200)

From looking around, the 12 point bolts I took off, when I did a engine swap, were likely OEM bolts that they stopped using after the first year of production.
ARP makes some flywheel bolts, for cheaper than I expected.
 

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I was mistaken. When I looked the bolts, I had ordered years ago, they seemed shorter than I expected.
I believe they are for a flex plate, not a flywheel. (flex plate bolt PN: 42121-4C200)

From looking around, the 12 point bolts I took off, when I did a engine swap, were likely OEM bolts that they stopped using after the first year of production.
ARP makes some flywheel bolts, for cheaper than I expected.
as those bolts are a critical item, I would want OEM no matter the cost or, get some grade "8" bolts the same dimensions.(grade "8" bolts are marked w/ an octagon ? with 8 lines radiating out from it ) if you see it you can't miss it.
 

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as those bolts are a critical item, I would want OEM no matter the cost or, get some grade "8" bolts the same dimensions.(grade "8" bolts are marked w/ an octagon ? with 8 lines radiating out from it ) if you see it you can't miss it.
hey,also is that a ball bearing pilot bearing (in end of crankshaft) now is also a convienient time to skim cut the flywheel clutch face that trues it up & can remove unwanted run out - make it like new !
 

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as those bolts are a critical item, I would want OEM no matter the cost or, get some grade "8" bolts the same dimensions.(grade "8" bolts are marked w/ an octagon ? with 8 lines radiating out from it ) if you see it you can't miss it.
No... I would rather re-use the original bolts (which I highly don't recommend), than use grade 8 bolts.
ARP flywheel bolts are like what $60. If the OEM bolts I have are any indication as to the cost of OEM flywheel bolts, they are like $1.50 per bolt.

Grade 8 bolts don't do well in an heat cycle environment, and the shoulders that are machined on the heads of these bolts aren't the best.
Basically after a few heat cycles, they will lose how tight they are holding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
No... I would rather re-use the original bolts (which I highly don't recommend), than use grade 8 bolts.
ARP flywheel bolts are like what $60. If the OEM bolts I have are any indication as to the cost of OEM flywheel bolts, they are like $1.50 per bolt.

Grade 8 bolts don't do well in an heat cycle environment, and the shoulders that are machined on the heads of these bolts aren't the best.
Basically after a few heat cycles, they will lose how tight they are holding.
1.50 per bolt was that from the dealer i need to call and double check on that
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Found the part number for the flywheel bolts.
according to here $5.17 per bolt
Ahh nice i wish they where a 1.50 but oh well seeing how i cant wait hopefully the dealer in town is the same price the part number should help since they seened clueless about them when i called
 

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Ahh nice i wish they where a 1.50 but oh well seeing how i cant wait hopefully the dealer in town is the same price the part number should help since they seened clueless about them when i called
the OEM ones are torx fasteners.
ARP ones are 12 point hex.
 

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well you're still gonna skim cut the fly wheel clutch surface to true it up ,or check the run out to see if it needs it. I always liked having it done whenever out even if run out OK to have that nice new machined surface for the clutch plate . But all that stuff is entirely up to the person building the engine.all this other is only suggestions.
 
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