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I discovered that i have a massive leak in the metal pipe on the return line of the power steering system. I looked up the part but unfortunately they do not sell the small metal pipe separately only the return line as a whole at $120.

I circled the part i'm talking about in the diagram below.



1.) Could i get away with cutting the broken metal one i have in half and placing a rubber tube connecting the two metal halves?

2.) Or could i just get rid of the metal part entirely and remove the two rubber hoses that attached to it. And replace the 3 separate hoses with one longer rubber hose.

3.) Any other hose you would suggest to fix the job?

The metal line broke because it was rubbing against my BOV that i have mounted on the turbo. I'm going to reposition the BOV so that this doesn't happen again, just hoping my PS pump isn't shot...
 

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Sorry to bring back a really old post but what did you end up doing? How did it hold up? I've got a similar issue.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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I'm planning to add a Hayden 4-pass fin transmission cooler to use as a PS cooler. Believe it uses 3/8" I.D. transmission hose. Does anyone know what size is the factory PS hose (I.D.) that connects to the factory loop cooler? I'm thinking that I will need to extend the factory hoses to reach the new cooler. What type of hose connector is recommended to extend the factory hoses?
 

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Thanks RR... just found another thread regarding the dimension, but you beat me to the edit :) I'll look for some barb connectors and use the worm drive clamps that came in the kit.
 

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Thanks RR... just found another thread regarding the dimension, but you beat me to the edit :) I'll look for some barb connectors and use the worm drive clamps that came in the kit.
Worm drive bites ass. Use OETIKER clamps,..bring your car up to FAA spec. Will never loosen or come off unless you take them off.

Dont know what year you have. Disconnect the last pre formed oem hose sections at the metall tubing which comes across the lower radiator deck. The metal tubing has a nice metal bevel you can use to push you new line hose on and make a nice attachment. Just use enough hose to make it to the central support in the front of the radiator ( return line also). You can use a spare 10mm bolt to hook into one of the pre drilled holes. (This is where your horns are). Move them around to suit your new power steering cooler. It also gives the new cooler good stand off from your AC condenser and radiator.
 

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I prefer a good quality worm clamp. I have used many other types and will use them over the t bolt, FI type, smooth liner type. I would use new OE clamps if I din't like the ears sticking up on them. They are great skin slicers.
 

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I just ripped my good one out today--also because turbo upgrade IC pipe routing. Replaced with 7/16" hose (3/8th was too small on mine? It "worked," but was very tight on the PS reservoir.
 

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The top (smaller diameter barb on the reservoir is the return line). The bottom (Larger line goes to the pump and it draws fluis into it, through the system then out.

When doing ANY line work, clamp off the section of pre bend hose after the number 11032 on the diagram. Leave fluid in the reservoir to cover the bottom barb. Do not let ANY air between those two points.
In your case you will be fine. You can replace then entire return section with flexible hose and a formal cooler. After the install bleed the air from the system in the following manner:

Oh, yeah, lets bleed our power steering sytem that we put the cooler on,(Keep the car OFF), add the CERMA powersteering fluid,......
Leave the cap off,.....turn the steering wheel all the way to the right-now all the way to the left. Wow, listen to the bubbling, ooh we need to fill it up again its pulling the fluid in as it burps its air out. Russian dude on you tube said repeat this 20 times.( I'm here to tell you guys it worked like a charm). Fill and such until the fluid is Min. COLD line when the steering is neutral.

The above works because as you turn the steering it pumps the fluid in the input side of the system out the return side , which convieniently burbs the air in the system up and out of the open reservoir. Granted as I said before you start turning you fill the reservoir, and add as the system displaces air with fluid thus dropping the reservoir.
 

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Thanks that's the one I was talking about. Planning to install the filter in the return line, flowing into the reservoir. I thought that is what the cooler manual says to do. Hoping to not have to replace any hose as I only have a couple feet.
 

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Thanks that's the one I was talking about. Planning to install the filter in the return line, flowing into the reservoir. I thought that is what the cooler manual says to do. Hoping to not have to replace any hose as I only have a couple feet.
Dont be cheap. Replace the whole return section. Buy good hose rated for powersteering fluid. Dont just use any old stuff. Get it from JEGGS or SUMMITs site.
 

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I may have missed it but why replace the factory hose? I am planning to extend the factory hoses with some 3/8" brass barb hose couplers. Or is this approach tacky?
 

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I'm a 3.8, but I got rid of all the metal lines too when I made her a turbo. Used 3/8 rubber and put in an actual cooler. Simple fix.
I know I'm bringing this back from the dead a second time but is there any simple fix for the 57510 line from the pic?
Is that line considered high pressure vs the smaller one lower pressure?
 

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I know I'm bringing this back from the dead a second time but is there any simple fix for the 57510 line from the pic?
Is that line considered high pressure vs the smaller one lower pressure?
You are talking the high pressure line to the rack. If you cut off those aluminum crimp/collars there is a steel line with a barb. In the past on other cars I have used steel reinforced hydraulic line and worm clamps to work here over a barbed end. Make sure yo use the wider clamps and not the narrow ones. The steel reinforcement inside the hose will deform over the barb and hold very tight.

I use a 1/4" socket and small wrench to tighten the clamps. if you tighten too much and it pops a thread you need to replace the clamp.

Or you could do this. Cut the steel line clean and use a compression fitting to 1/4" FNPT and then a 1.4" MNPT to 3/8" hose barb.

 
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