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All of it. I'm responsible for oil analysis trending on about 50 locomotives right now, all different engines, different usages and different climates, only one thing common among them, the oil.

Instant notifiers for me on loci's are copper, molybdenum, lead and sodium. As those are primary bearing materials and acid traits. Next I look at the zinc, phosphorus and magnesium and compare them to the factory oil spec to make sure that the modifiers are not being heavily consumed by the engine. There should be a drop but it shouldn't be significant. One thing that BlackStone doesn't look for is sulfated ash, which should be <5 in Shell and PetroCan and <10 in Mobil (loci specific oil, not in general).

After that I look at the properties, viscosities and flashpoints. As long as the oil is still within spec, I consider it good. If it's not within spec, I look at other contributors that could be diluting the oil such as fuel, water and propylene levels.

As most locomotives have very heavy components and lead and steel are difficult to suspend in oil, I rely very heavily on visual inspections of cams, rollers, cylinders and mains rather than OAR's (Oil Analysis Reports) as they can tell you some things, they can't others. For instance, we have one loci that is getting oil into the fuel system, that doesn't show up in OARs but does in a visual inspection. I use the same methods on my coupe that I do on all my other engines regardless of their size and fuel preference.
 

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Snoopy, just thought I'd lend my experience so far, 2013 3.8 Track with all the usual NA mods, I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, changing every 8k miles since new and have 75k miles. I also add Lucas Top Cylinder Lubricant to my gas , up to 50k, every fill up since then on average every other fill up. I drive fairly aggressive taking it to 7k rpm often. I fill up with 93 octane usually Shell or Exxon. Engine sounds good and has no drop in power. The oil at time of change looks darker then when new, still very viscous with no burnt smell. In your opinion is my choice good or could I do better for the money spent. Oil change $89 with coupon, Lucas $6 a bottle.


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Mobil 1 0w40 is on sale at Canadian Tire for $28 a 4.4L bottle right now. It's the best bang for the buck. $26 for 5 qts in the US at WalMart.
 

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Snoopy, just thought I'd lend my experience so far, 2013 3.8 Track with all the usual NA mods, I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, changing every 8k miles since new and have 75k miles. I also add Lucas Top Cylinder Lubricant to my gas , up to 50k, every fill up since then on average every other fill up. I drive fairly aggressive taking it to 7k rpm often. I fill up with 93 octane usually Shell or Exxon. Engine sounds good and has no drop in power. The oil at time of change looks darker then when new, still very viscous with no burnt smell. In your opinion is my choice good or could I do better for the money spent. Oil change $89 with coupon, Lucas $6 a bottle.


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In my experience, the Pennzoil runs a bit hotter than the Rotella or Mobil but it protects just as well. You didn't mention your VI's (5w40, 5w30, etc.) but as long as you're using something like a 5w30, you should be good if you're still NA. If you're aggressive, you might want to invest in an oil cooler just because the V6 doesn't really shed oil temp very well based on data collected from the FI V6 guys (all of whom have had to install oil coolers to keep things in check). The Lambda V6 is considered a high performance NA engine at nearly 350bhp, it's almost 100hp/litre, which is pretty high for NA.

I think based on your observations, you're doing quite well in protecting your engine and maintaining your performance. Send a sample out if you're concerned and report back with your printout and simply tag me if you'd like more details specific to your data.
 

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When switching from A gasoline engine oil (synthetic obviously) to T6, would it be a drain & fill as per usual or would it be a good idea to do a drain and fill twice?

looks like I will be switching over when I get back from LA next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
When switching from A gasoline engine oil (synthetic obviously) to T6, would it be a drain & fill as per usual or would it be a good idea to do a drain and fill twice?

looks like I will be switching over when I get back from LA next week.
Nah, I'd say you're fine just dumping it in as usual. If you really want to clean it out you can do it for peace of mind.
 

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Nah, I'd say you're fine just dumping it in as usual. If you really want to clean it out you can do it for peace of mind.
Ah, I'l do a Drain and fill then lol.

hopefully they go on sale when im back.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Ah, I'l do a Drain and fill then lol.

hopefully they go on sale when im back.
Grab yourself one of those notched oil drains, make draining a whole lot easier. :D
 

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I just think that with all the good oils specially formulated for gasoline engines why would you use one formulated for diesel engines? and it will cost you more.
Rotella t6 gallon - 21.74 plus you need another quart - 6.97 = 28.71
Valvoline Synpower (the one i use) 5 quart jug - 26.18
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
I suppose for some people the idea of "good" oil is relative, I don't have an oil analysis to back up my praise for the oil (not yet at least) but once I receive that analysis I'll provide a more valid verdict.

I'm not sure how the T6 formula has changed over the years, but it seems the additional zinc in this oil is fantastic for turbo charged engines and the gasoline counterparts don't provide the same concentrations of zinc and other compounds.

The oil was 18 bucks per gallon not too long ago so the price fluctuates a bit, but it is a quality oil for a relatively cheap price.

It's also important to note that diesel oils (not all but Rotella T6 does) have gasoline engine certifications meaning they can be used in your engine without consequence (as far as the engine is concerned, I can't speak in regards to emissions).

You can check your owners manual and see the oil certs that are valid for the Gen Coupe, T6 holds two of those. So in my eyes it is good to go, and I'm sure Snoopy could provide you with a more in depth explanation. The guy is a fountain of information.
 

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You pretty much covered it @Necrodox. If it meets the same certifications, it's safe to use. And Hyundai's metallurgy (Korea produced) responds very well to Shells additives, probably because they work with Shell (Quaker State and Pennzoil are both owned by Shell) when designing engines and oil requirements.
Now that might be different for the Alabama produced engines, but they are still teamed with Shell. In a lot of countries you get a sticker under the hood indicating to use Shell products on the GC and many other SoKo cars, here in Canada we get Quaker State stickers.

Ultimately, use whatever you like. We could type and explain till our bones are meeting the keys but won't sway you one way or the other if you've already got a preconceived notion in your head. In my personal statistics, the majority of GC owners use AMSoil, Mobil 1 and T6. The majority of owners with built/high hp engines use AMSoil or T6, nearly exclusively.
 

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I use t6 on my evo. I change it every 3k cause I'm freak. I use t6 on my wife's vw tdi every 8 to 10k. No problems here
 

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Discussion Starter #55

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im currently running rotella t6, haven't changed oil yet, picked up the car at 5600 (dont know if previous owner did first oil change.... or wut kinda oil he was running, but the oil came out ok and no metal shavings or anything) and i changed it to rotella t6 at 7600, now im at about 9000. so im not due for another oil change for another 3k or so. can't tell you how the oil will come out, im planning on doing 4500~5000 intervals on the rotella

so far tho my impression of the oil is pretty good, engine runs smooth, no issues yet with this oil. can't comment on mpg (which i dont really care too much for anyways) because i've been heavy foot for the last few weeks due to downpipe install.
I heard using t6 is bad for our cats due to the zinc in it will tear it up as it burns up should I worry or no ? I started using t6 5w40 recently due to forums saying it’s okay and it’s good to use
 

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I heard using t6 is bad for our cats due to the zinc in it will tear it up as it burns up should I worry or no ? I started using t6 5w40 recently due to forums saying it’s okay and it’s good to use
I would imagine the new stuff meets Hyundai's specs. They are pretty broad. But even if it was high in zinc. one oil change would not do harm. It's long term and if you are burning oil.

I've had great luck with 0w40 M1 European formula. Clean as can be at +100k last year when I did the timing chain.

I've had an oil test done on 5w30 M1 before and after a race day + 400 miles. It came back with a fuel dilution note but they said it was OK to keep using. I change it at 5K then and now. Been using the 0w40 for the last 7 or 8 years.
 
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