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I would imagine the new stuff meets Hyundai's specs. They are pretty broad. But even if it was high in zinc. one oil change would not do harm. It's long term and if you are burning oil.

I've had great luck with 0w40 M1 European formula. Clean as can be at +100k last year when I did the timing chain.

I've had an oil test done on 5w30 M1 before and after a race day + 400 miles. It came back with a fuel dilution note but they said it was OK to keep using. I change it at 5K then and now. Been using the 0w40 for the last 7 or 8 years.
Thank you !
 

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There isn't any. T6 while labeled as a diesel oil, also has JASO certification for motorcycles, which rev to 14k+ and use it as clutch and transmission oil at the same time with a tiny filter. It's also API certified for gasoline engines. What's down right 'retarded' is bold ignorance.

To the Porsche owner, Mobil 1 won't clean up sludge, no oil will completely remove sludge and you'd have to change your filter every 500 miles to ensure you didn't clog it. Your 'service advisor' or 'technician' is full of ****. Volvo and Subaru guys have been using it in turbo cars for literally decades, largest complaint is a smell when it leaks onto things like manifolds.

I've used T6 5w-40 in my 2.0T for years now. When I tore the engine apart to upgrade the internals, this is what I found;
  • reusable bearings
  • ideal bucket wear
  • zero polishing of the cylinder walls
  • not even an ounce of sludge anywhere in the engine
I don't have lab analysis reports to back up my usage, but I've got hours of footage from me taking the engine apart that you can gladly view on my YouTube anytime you'd like not to mention pictures of the tear down process.

What's your youtube? I'd love watch and check out your vids.
 

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Just curious.. the manual specs out 5w30 or 5w40... back when i worked for hyundai we used 5w30 in everything (cheaper for the dealer to have a universal oil)... but been out of that world for some time now... been reading what people use in the 2.0t but not quite understanding so im hoping somebody can shed some light... why run 0w40 over 5w40 and what would be more beneficial to run in states where its hot majority of the year such as SC?
 

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I use M1 0w40 for the last 9 years mainly because it's cheap and easy to get at Walmart. Use it in my mower too. It sure keeps the engine clean. Most of my driving is in the non snow months in Illinois. I would use 5w40 if it was more readily available.
 

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Just curious.. the manual specs out 5w30 or 5w40... back when i worked for hyundai we used 5w30 in everything (cheaper for the dealer to have a universal oil)... but been out of that world for some time now... been reading what people use in the 2.0t but not quite understanding so im hoping somebody can shed some light... why run 0w40 over 5w40 and what would be more beneficial to run in states where its hot majority of the year such as SC?
The lower the first number the better the cold starting is. If i recall correctly most engine wear occurs during startup and before reaching op temps. If your oil is too thick like 20w50 it'll take longer to lubricate and warm up but it protects against wear better at high temps. The 2nd number is the oil viscosity index when hot. So 10W40 and 0W40 theoretically should be similar in wear protection when hot under SAE standards. This does vary by manufacturer though and is not equal above 230 degrees. I think SAE tests at 212....
 
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