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you know what i don't understand ? Why are you changing the fluid to start with ? what maintenance schedule are you using.? My 2013 manual says after the 150,000 mark automatic transmission fluid-No checks No service required (page7-19) It does state if operated under severe usage unpaved gravel or salt sandy roads towing as a patrol car or over 106mph replace at 60,000 miles page 7-22 states again automatic transmission should not be checked under normal usage conditions. I don't think most people know how easy it is to contaminate the transmission. If it is opened up (pan off or whatever) dirt just a couple grains of sand, gets in the valve body & sticks under a check valve ball guess what can happen. There is a reason they are sealed & a reason when you see a professional overhaul buiz. its a clean room. ever-body welcome to their own beliefs, this is just mine (& hundai maintenance)

Hence me suggesting the dealer or a ZF fluent shop do it. If you even hooked up a torque app and saw how hot your ATF gets even with normal usage you would change your tune guaranteed. When my 13 was bone stock i had it up to torque app and observed ATF temp at 235 F,...holy mother of God. Thats was after my first little street race, maybe 110 ish for just a few miles. So I went to my dealer, confered with my good friend, who was their master tech, he owns his own biz now, he chuckled and said, yup, the ZF's 6 or 8, but especially the 8s are hot sons of bitches. The first ATF fluid change followed, and trans cooler was installed.

So SEVERE duty includes what you copied, PLUS
-tuned
-forced induction
-aggressive driving,...me all over the place. Anyone the auto Xs or the like.
-high octane fuels
-methanol injection

For the above I will change AGAIN at 60K. Severe duty is WISE for anyone. So you are way past due. Your right its my opinion,...but Im not the one having problems or symptoms either.

Severe duty includes any kind of "tune". Of course that s not in the manual. You dont drive over 106 ? (nuff said). You are not checking or "cracking" anything. You are going to your dealer with BETTER than original ATF fluids, (upgrade), race worthy stuff. Then they are replacing the fluids and doing whatever else that entails. Have a nice day:smile: Good luck.
 

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you know what i don't understand ? Why are you changing the fluid to start with ? what maintenance schedule are you using.? My 2013 manual says after the 150,000 mark automatic transmission fluid-No checks No service required (page7-19) It does state if operated under severe usage unpaved gravel or salt sandy roads towing as a patrol car or over 106mph replace at 60,000 miles page 7-22 states again automatic transmission should not be checked under normal usage conditions. I don't think most people know how easy it is to contaminate the transmission. If it is opened up (pan off or whatever) dirt just a couple grains of sand, gets in the valve body & sticks under a check valve ball guess what can happen. There is a reason they are sealed & a reason when you see a professional overhaul buiz. its a clean room. ever-body welcome to their own beliefs, this is just mine (& hundai maintenance)
The transmission is already "open" there is a breather vent at the top of the transmission. What contaminates ATF more than dirt is moisture. I've opened one up before where it looked like it was lubed up with axle grease.

I had to do mine, because some nutbar decided to leave knife in the road. it nicked one of then lines. Didn't know until the next day when my garage floor looked like a murder scene.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
well guys and gals I thought i make a reply on the issue that was found now that it is fixed. maybe it can point you in the right area



so i finally decided to take my car to a trusted mechanic but pricey sometimes but he always does top notch work



The mechanic put the car on the lift he soon noticed something was dripping. Once he noticed that he gave me a call and I came up there and looked at it. all the issues i was suspecting to be the reasons like engine or dirty transmission fluid etc. was incorrect it end up being a transmission leak once the mechanic took the transmission off the car he noticed that a seal leak and bearing/bushing around the front pump fused with the torque converter somehow and was spinning with the housing. To fixed this issue was to install a brand new front pump. The 3.8 runs like a dream and feels fun to drive again. The front pump bearings/bushing seems to be sort of a common issue with the "ZF transmissions" he stated to me anyway as a Christmas gift to me I got everything done for a very very fair price with parts and labor
 
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