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that guy
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
SFR Clutch Adjuster Rod Install

Hi All!
Let’s talk about something a little different today. The SFR Clutch Rod Adjuster Kit.
I would like to preface this walkthrough by saying this- I did not take any pictures during the install because I was too busy rage-quitting and cussing, and wondering why god had forsaken me ( I’m an atheist and I still felt this way , this install is hard bro! ). I am recycling pictures taken by other members in another thread, and giving my own input on top of it. Special thanks to the following members for providing me with the information necessary to complete this install- RSPECHYUNDAI, TVONE2, CBRMAN77, and 1320drift. Even if not all of their advice worked for me, one must give credit where due. Also the pictures in this thread were taken by CBRMAN77 and 1320drift, and annotated by me.

Purpose of install:
The 2010-2012 Genesis Coupe did not come with an adjustable clutch rod from the factory, which is unbelievably stupid. Every other manual transmission car I have ever owned in the past has offered some small degree of clutch rod adjustment. Every clutch combination is different, every car is different. When installing a new clutch, the typical procedure ( in addition to the normal clutch break period ) is to adjust the “free play” of the clutch after 1000 miles, then again after 5k-10k miles before leaving it alone for pretty much the life of the car ( some people choose to re-adjust every 10k miles, YMMV What you’re actually adjusting is the engagement point of the clutch- or where the clutch bites as you press and release the pedal- the physical point in the pedal travel where the clutch engages and disengages. ). As the clutch breaks in and becomes worn over it’s lifespan, the engagement point will change on it’s own and requires periodic adjustment for optimal operation. The OEM rod is also cheap plastic, and will certainly break at some point of the life of the car, lots of stuff will break before this, but it is seriously cheap plastic, like GI Joe cheap, so it’s a mini disaster waiting to happen at some point in the later life of the car ( past 100k miles )
In my case, with my Competition Clutch Stage 2 kit, my clutch has always engaged at the very TOP of the pedal, which makes smooth driving very difficult. Shifting quickly is a bitch because I always have to fully take my foot off the clutch pedal to make sure the damned gear lever will actually move when my brain/hand wants it to move- we all know, the slightest ****up in timing during a speed shift causes a nasty grind. My goal is to move my engagement point further down the pedal, I’d like to get it to be about 30% down the pedal if possible. Some people with OEM clutches may wish to do the opposite, move the engagement point higher up the pedal. I’ve heard some of you have issues with the engagement point being basically on the floor, which is equally as dumb as my situation. I don’t know yet if the adjuster rod will give me this much range, but I guess I’ll find out soon enough.

Difficulty of install: ∞/10
Yes you read that right, INFINITY out of TEN.
I’m not kidding when I say that installing this tiny little clutch rod took me about as long as performing my last turbo upgrade. It’s a B!TCH!! This install should not be attempted by anyone with an IQ below 150.

I rage quit this install twice, and only came back to it because I felt an altruistic desire to make sure nobody else’s experience is as traumatic as mine was. I can’t stress this enough, this install will make you question the very fabric of existence. It is harder than Ninja Gaiden Sigma on Extreme difficulty. You’ll be a nihilist by the time it’s over. You’ll start reading Nietzsche, eventually begin to dabble in existentialism, and most likely bring yourself 5 years closer to senility due to the mental stresses of this install. You’ve been warned.

Why is the install so difficult? JustaSomeGuy really sums it up perfectly. It’s all about that plastic C-Clip.

JustaSomeGuy said:
How does one remove that plastic clip? Remember we're talking lying sideways with our head and shoulders jammed up under the dash, trying to hold a flashlight, trying to see something black inside of something black....it's certainly not obvious that there's a plastic clip in there.
That just about sums it up.



The part!
Here you go, the SFR Clutch Adjuster Rod


See the writing on it? If you zoom in it actually says
SFR Adjuster Rod said:
And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know I am the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon you


This thing made me feel like SFR is angry at me for some reason.



The range of adjustment is not huge, less than an inch. However in this case, when adjusting clutch free play, millimeters might as well be miles. They go a long way.




It may be possible to adjust it to be even shorter by removing the locking nut and spinning the rod all the way down to the base.

Also note that it is possible to adjust the rod so long that the clutch will not reach the switch at the bottom of the pedal, which I believe is used to start the car when you press the clutch in. You may be able to just tape that switch down though, which would give the added benefit of being able to start the car without pressing the clutch. I’ll be experimenting with that pretty soon and will post my results in this thread.


Tools needed:
10mm wrench
12mm wrench
Dremel ( or drill )
Sanding wheel ( or drill bits )
Brake fluid
Band aids- big ones
Neosporin ( the real stuff )
Adamantium skin
Flat head screwdriver ( every size imaginable )
Jack
Jack Stands
Paper towels
The benevolent force of whatever deity you believe in, and if you’re an atheist like me, sorry you’re just going to have a hard time
Perfect planetary alignment including Pluto
Lots and lots of luck
IQ points falling out of you’re a$$
Cool shady place to work
Lots of water ( and by water I mean beer )
If you have any diazepam laying around, now’s the time to take one, cause you ‘bout to get real, real mad
Brake bleeder bottle kit from the auto parts store ( usually about $10 )
Channel lock pliers
PhD in Theoretical Physics



Fitment issues:
1. Can be too long ( as described above )
2. The hole is machined incorrectly, too small. I had to dremel mine out. I actually received two of these things due to a shipping error and they both had the same fitment issue. RSPECHYUNDAI also had the same fitment issue. I would expect to have the same issue if you are reading this and just ordered one. SFR needs to fix this, because this install is hard enough without having to waste extra time drilling stuff out. It’s a simple hole, what is so hard about making it the right size?
RSPECHYUNDAI said:
One problem I ran into was the machined hole in the new rod was slightly under sized and I had to hone it out with a little 400 grit paper on a rod to make it fit on to the clutch pedal.
In my case, sandpaper was useless, the hole was way too small. It took about 5-10 minutes with a dremel and sanding wheel to make it the exact size I needed.


Let’s get on with the install. I am going to try and give you all of the different known ways to do this. This should be a <1 hour install, but it took me about 7 hours to figure it out and I’m a literal genius and super skilled installer, so figure that you’re gonna have issues. I hope the info below makes this a much quicker process for you guys.
Install:
First- begin by doing the easy stuff- well “easy” is relative- keep in mind you’re upside down, sweating, fingers bleeding already probably. There is a metal pin holding the clutch rod to the clutch pedal, use a flat head screwdriver to pry that pin downward and twist it to remove it. There is also a rubber boot at the base of the rod, pull that rubber boot toward the front of the pedal to expose the plastic hex nut looking thing, this Hex nut houses the C clip. You will notice that there are grooves in the side of this hex nut, you need to stick a flat head screwdriver in there to pry the C clip out. At this point you’ll find yourself saying something like this out loud:
“ Are you f!cking kidding me?

This is where the C clip nightmare begins. You should be staring at this:

The challenge here, is to get the C-clip backed out enough to release the rod. Seems so easy, except that EVERYTHING IN THE F!CKING KNOWN UNIVERSE IS IN THE WAY. Most of us will run into a situation like this where the clip is pointed sideways against the metal bracket for the clutch pedal mount. The space is too tight to fit any human made tool in there. It would be really handy to have one of those Star Trek transporters right here, just beam that f!cker right out of there, but seeing that we’re at least 200 years away from that, you’re stuck doing it the old analog way.

So.. what you need to do, is rotate the clutch master cylinder ( NOT THE MAIN BRAKE SYSTEM MASTER CYLINDER ) a little bit so the C clip points downward, so you can easily remove and replace it. It just sounds so simple! Well.. colonizing Mars is simple by comparison.

Here are all of the methods I compiled for performing this task, again with assistance from RSPECHYUNDAI, TVONE2, CBRMAN77, and 1320drift

Method 1: The luckiest guy on earth method, also known as Jesus Saves
Here is that C clip again-

So if you’re one of the chosen people, you will find that your C clip is already pointing downward. If that’s the case, this install is going to be cake for you, and you’re literally almost done already at this point. Just pry the clip downward with pliers or a flat head screwdriver, the rod will fall out, the plastic piston and spring behind it may also fall out ( mine did ) and you will lose some brake/clutch fluid for sure. I lost at least ¼ cup. When you’re done, just put the new rod in place, adjust it to the same length as the OEM rod for now, pop that C clip back in, and basically you’re done.

It’s too bad this method isn’t going to happen to you, I just put it here for control purposes. LOL, don’t get your hopes up buddy!

Method 2: The Wishful Thinker ( the 1320drift method )
1320drift said:
Install was simple. No need to unbolt the pedal. I would first turn the master about an 1/8th to 1/4 inch to the left and pull the clip out. Take out the rod and put your finger on the hole while you are replacing it with the adjustable rod. I had clutch fluid come out but not much. I haven't bled the clutch because I don't feel any air got into the system due to residual pressure.
So basically the way this method works, is by taking a pair of channel lock pliers ( try and find ones just like in this picture, they sell them at Lowe’s for about $10 ). Put it on the FRONT of the plastic hex nut, and try to turn it about 90 degrees to the left, which eventually should get the C clip pointing downward for you to remove and replace.

If this works for you, you are truly blessed. It did not work for me. Any time I got it to turn, it would spring back into place as soon as I released the pliers, leaving the C clip in the original impossible position. It might work for you though, it worked for 1320drift.
 

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that guy
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Method 3: The Mad Scientist (the CBRMAN77 method )
cbrman77 said:
Here are the steps I followed:

Step 1. Remove x-shaped spring clip/cotter pin that holds assembly to clutch pedal. (I put a flat head screwdriver on the bottom and pushed towards floor, pops right off.)
Step 2. Remove plastic washer behind cotter pin/spring clip.
Step 3. Remove 5 12 mm bolts holding clutch pedal assembly to body/firewall. (Note there are 3 holding against firewall, 2 holding on top by dash bracket)
Step 4. Pull clutch assembly 1/2" or so from firewall, so it is past the threaded studs on the body.
Step 5. Rotate clutch assembly approx 1/8 - 1/4 turn so you can access the plastic C-clip
Step 6. (This is a pita) Using small screwdriver, you will see notches in black nut assembly, using small screwdriver push on open ends of c clip pushing it out. (I had the best luck with the arm still assembled see first pic attached).

In my case, the black plastic nut on the clutch master assembly was tightened to the point that the c-clip was sliding out where there was no clearance. I used a large screwdriver and pried it back enough to pull the old assembly out.

Grease assembly and reinstall in reverse.

And FYI, I didnt have any clutch fluid leak out by doing it this way.


hope this info helps, and as said before by another poster, be careful not to pop out the plastic c-clip.

Now this method did not work for me either! It was actually an overall nightmare to do, but it might work for you so why not try it. My issues were that after unbolting the clutch pedal assembly and trying to rotate it as recommended by CBRMAN77, it just turned the whole clutch cylinder at the same time, effectively keeping the C clip at the same impossible angle. Also, there is a rubber boot behind the clutch pedal that really gets in the way and makes things even tougher to work with when it gets caught up on the threads of the mounting studs. To make thing even more silly and complicated, there are these little metal rings in the bottom 3 holes of the clutch mount. You have to somehow get those stupid things back in place too. This method is an overall nightmare, and I think it is the least likely to create a successful outcome. During this method was my first rage quit.




At this point, this is how I was really feeling:


Now at this point, I started doing stuff like taking off my under dash plastic panels to see if that would somehow get me better clearance to work. It doesn’t, don’t waste your time removing any dash panels. As an added bonus, I discovered that everything behind the dash panels is made out of razor blades, and right after slicing my elbow wide open, my second rage quit came as I realized I had my own blood in my armpit.


This is where you need the band aids and Neosporin.
Somehow I pulled myself mentally back together, feeling defeated. I just kept remembering that scene in “ The Beach” where Leo tells the story about killing the shark. Sometimes you catch dinner, and sometimes you ARE dinner. Basically I decided I was not going to be defeated by this part, and soldiered on.
Again, even though this method literally caused me physical injury on top of not working, YMMV and you should try it anyway. It worked for CBRMAN77 and might work for you.



Method 4: The secret handshake ( the TVONE2 method )
TVONE2 said:
the "spring back" you were feeling is the metal line twisting/moving from the reservoir. once you get your hand on the master.. you twist it a bit and flex/bend the line a little. then inside for the clip. I had an easier time with it I guess because I moved the master first then removed the clip etc.. Being Skinny helps for sure! under the dash and under the hood.
I did not actually try this method, but in retrospect I think it is the one that will most likely deliver success. Most of you should try this method first before bothering with anything else. I think it is most likely the easiest method as well. I have no pictures of this method. You may need a second person for this one.
Go under the hood, look for the main brake master cyl, to the right of it there is a coiled up brake line which goes down to the clutch master cyl. Grab the clutch master cyl from here and turn it 90 degrees to the right, which should fix all of the problems under the dash with the C clip. This may require slightly bending the metal clutch hard line under the hood just a little bit. Bending is OK, just don’t kink the line or really make anything beyond a 60 degree gradual bend. Once this is rotated, the C clip will be easy.

Method 5: The Desperation Attack ( the kepone ultimate method )

Nothing worked for me. I could not get the C clip back in. I guess I did not mention that earlier- I actually pried my C clip completely off with a screwdriver somewhere between Methods 2 and 3 and my challenge was getting it back on. I would recommend trying your best to make sure the C clip does not pop off all the way, especially if you are somehow attempting to do this without rotating the cylinder. If it pops off you HAVE to rotate the cylinder to get it back on. In my case nothing worked to rotate the cylinder because I did not figure out method 4 until after the install was done. I ended up trimming the C clip slightly to get it to go back on. I trimmed about 1/3 off of one arm of the C clip to get it to slide back on without turning the clutch cylinder. Trim as little as possible, only as much as you need to get it back on. Remember this thing holds your clutch cyl together and it needs to stay together for your car to work. The clip will hold fine if you trim a little off, also the rubber boot will help keep it in place. Once the clip has been trimmed you can slide it in at a diagonal angle at first, then straighten it up all the way as it begins to slide into the plastic hex nut. I have been inspecting my trimmed C clip daily for a week now and it has not budged at all, so I think it is safe to do this. I would still recommend trying methods 1-4 first, and only trimming it if you have no other alternative. However due to the fact that it is holding perfectly and I see no danger in trimming slightly ( since the clip is still going to hit the metal bracket if it somehow backs out a little ), I am also comfortable saying that this is a good shortcut, and some of you that are less mechanically savvy may want to just skip right to this method.





Final steps:
Gravity bleed clutch- I lost a lot of fluid during this install, a ¼ cup or more. I definitely had to bleed my clutch after, and LOTS of air came out. Gravity bleeding is easy and can be done by one person. Jack up the driver’s side of the car, secure it on jack stands. Pop the hood and loosen the cap on the main brake master cylinder. Get under the transmission and you should see a clutch line on the side like this- ( mine is red, Agency Power braided line, yours will probably be black rubber)


Just put a piece of clear hose ( from the brake bleeder bottle if you bought it, if not any piece of 3-4mm clear aquarium hose and a soda bottle will do ) on the bleeder nipple, turn the bleeder screw with a 10mm wrench and let gravity do all the work. You’ll see lots of fluid and air start to come out, once the air bubbles stop and you have nothing but solid fluid then tighten the bleeder screw and you’re done. When it comes to the clutch I believe in multiple bleeds, so what I do is this process I just mentioned, then top off the master cyl, close it, pump the cluch 5-10 times, then uncap the master cyl, and gravity bleed again. I will usually do this 3 times in a row to make sure there’s no air in the system- honestly though once is probably sufficient and I’m just being anal retentive.

Adjust rod length- Self explanatory- drive around for a while, see how the clutch feels, shorten or lengthen the rod as you personally see fit. I would put a tiny mark on the rod somewhere, so you can adjust in one turn increments only. Remember – millimeters are millions of miles- adjust slowly and methodically until you get it just right.

*Please note that there are switches at the top and bottom of the clutch pedal, you need to make sure the pedal can touch these switches*
Top switch- cruise control disengage
Bottom switch- lets you start the car

It may be possible to adjust the rod so long or so short that it may not be able to hit these switches. Be careful with how you adjust!

That’s it guys! If you’re brave, this mod is probably worthwhile. It literally is one of the most incredibly difficult installs I have done on this car. This install is so difficult that I feel SFR is completely irresponsible as a company for shipping these things out without an installation manual.

Good luck and godspeed!
 

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Frenchy
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1 local guy got it installed. I don't think he went through all that trouble to get it done
 

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that guy
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Discussion Starter #4
A couple of people in the original SFR thread said they didn't have a big hassle, and SFR claims that their shop has installed over 15 with no real problems. However nobody , including SFR can say how they actually did it so easily or how to reliably repeat that method. This thread compiles all the methods I found from searching on this forum. Every car is different, yours might be a lot easier or who knows, it might be even harder. I wish I could find out who the assembly line worker was that built my car, I need to have words with him
 

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that guy
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Discussion Starter #5
I would really appreciate if everyone that has this thing chimes in and gives some pointers about how they installed it
 

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Frenchy
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lmao. In my case I need to find who assembled my transmission

A couple of people in the original SFR thread said they didn't have a big hassle, and SFR claims that their shop has installed over 15 with no real problems. However nobody , including SFR can say how they actually did it so easily or how to reliably repeat that method. This thread compiles all the methods I found from searching on this forum. Every car is different, yours might be a lot easier or who knows, it might be even harder. I wish I could find out who the assembly line worker was that built my car, I need to have words with him
 

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Sorry to hear that you had such experience.
Regardless of what I am going write below your feedback is very important to us.

Few things I'd like to chime in ..

We can sure send this feedback to the manufacture ("System Upgrade" as engraved on all of their products include pulleys, short shifters,etc as written in our product descriptions, we are only a middle man to distribute their products. Not blaming you as all their products are often called SFR products.. Really doesn't matter but we can always relay the info to the original manufacture.

We did install over 15+ in house and sell them daily basis. Our dealers (who buy at least 30-50sets in bulk) worldwide have been carrying and selling them for us as well without such issues. Honestly it only took us about 15-20minutes to install (Don't get me wrong. The first one was the hardest still until we got a good feel of it).

Once again any feedback is important to us and we appreciate your detailed write ups.

Thank you
 

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Premium Member
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The frustration I sense in this thread is similar to my loathing of the car dealerships in my area. Maybe the manufacturer or SFR can include installation instructions or include other components to make the process easier. Perhaps the destructive method is necessary and the kit should supply a new c-clip.
 

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Thank you for the laughs!

I had problems more with rebolting the clutch set up to the firewall again moreso than the c clip. It took me literally hours to figure out how to get that thing to line up all 4 bolts correctly. I feel your pain!

Worthwhile mod though. My clutch pedal engagement was riding extremely high, but I can get it right in the middle/closer to the floor with this. I do have some "slack" in the high end of the pedal now where it seems like only the spring is making it go up the rest of the way, but it doesn't bother me much. Reminds me somewhat of a two stage trigger, for any shooters out there.
 

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that guy
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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry to hear that you had such experience.
Regardless of what I am going write below your feedback is very important to us.

Few things I'd like to chime in ..

We can sure send this feedback to the manufacture ("System Upgrade" as engraved on all of their products include pulleys, short shifters,etc as written in our product descriptions, we are only a middle man to distribute their products. Not blaming you as all their products are often called SFR products.. Really doesn't matter but we can always relay the info to the original manufacture.

We did install over 15+ in house and sell them daily basis. Our dealers (who buy at least 30-50sets in bulk) worldwide have been carrying and selling them for us as well without such issues. Honestly it only took us about 15-20minutes to install (Don't get me wrong. The first one was the hardest still until we got a good feel of it).

Once again any feedback is important to us and we appreciate your detailed write ups.

Thank you
Thank you for your response Jay, I have one request. If you guys have done so many of these installs and can do them in 20 minutes...please speak to your mechanics and find out the exact method they use , and post it in this thread. You keep saying it's an easy install but the proof is in the pudding. Show it to me , or it never happened.
 

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Function Over Form
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lmao. Best thread I've read in a long time.

When I put the c clip back in after the rod was installed I used both hands and my head. I lengthened the rod as far as it goes, pushed the clutch pedal in a little with my head or maybe it was my shoulder. Then turned the channel locks a little to the left with my right hand and pushed the clip in with my left hand. If you have trouble fitting your body in the car to do this I recommend unbolting your front seat. Just 4 14mm bolts. If you take the seat out make sure to disconnect the wires.

Have fun.
 

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that guy
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Discussion Starter #12
lmao. Best thread I've read in a long time.

When I put the c clip back in after the rod was installed I used both hands and my head. I lengthened the rod as far as it goes, pushed the clutch pedal in a little with my head or maybe it was my shoulder. Then turned the channel locks a little to the left with my right hand and pushed the clip in with my left hand. If you have trouble fitting your body in the car to do this I recommend unbolting your front seat. Just 4 14mm bolts. If you take the seat out make sure to disconnect the wires.

Have fun.
Lol I'm glad I could entertain you, believe me I was not having fun the day of the install lol
 

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I spent almost on hour on mine and it is easy to go into rage mode when your cramed under a dash board.

A note for the guys and gals with no cruse control the cruse on off switch located on the top of the clutch pedal assembly acts as a pedal stop.

The none cruse cars have no pedal stop and when you adjust the rod your pedal goes up and down instead of moving the rod in and out.

So i have solved this by adding a factory cruse switch that can later be used for a wotbox.:)

One more note my factory plastic rod that has 68k miles on it was worn to a nice oval shape at the attachment point its a good idea to replace it just to get rid of the pos plastic one that's destined to fail.
 

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I'm confused, possibly from lack of sleep, but does this only change where the clutch engages or does it change the actual distance the clutch pedal will travel (instead of being able to move the clutch say 9 inches you can adjust it so you can only push the clutch pedal 3 inches)
 

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that guy
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Discussion Starter #15
You're only changing the engagement point of the clutch , the pedal throw distance remains the same
 

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You're only changing the engagement point of the clutch , the pedal throw distance remains the same
DAMN! alright thanks
 

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A couple of people in the original SFR thread said they didn't have a big hassle, and SFR claims that their shop has installed over 15 with no real problems. However nobody , including SFR can say how they actually did it so easily or how to reliably repeat that method. This thread compiles all the methods I found from searching on this forum. Every car is different, yours might be a lot easier or who knows, it might be even harder. I wish I could find out who the assembly line worker was that built my car, I need to have words with him
you must have a friday car, the guy was in a hurry to get out that day so he rushed through putting your car together
 

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that guy
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Discussion Starter #18
Mazukou said:
There's no place like 127.0.0.1
This made me chuckle btw^^

My car has overall been very well put together, has all the usual genesis problems but in one or two areas I found it to be a unique pain in the a$$. This clutch cylinder issue is one, the other was when I discovered that Hyundai had welded on the bolts to my secondary cat, and I had to dremel them off just to upgrade my exhaust system
 

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This made me chuckle btw^^

My car has overall been very well put together, has all the usual genesis problems but in one or two areas I found it to be a unique pain in the a$$. This clutch cylinder issue is one, the other was when I discovered that Hyundai had welded on the bolts to my secondary cat, and I had to dremel them off just to upgrade my exhaust system
im glad someone gets the joke

my only issue was when i was changing down pipes, they seemed to have cross thread, super glued, and welded and shrunk the pipe around the 02 sensor, four of us tried getting it off, and its still firmly in the factory downpiipe to this day lol

my only other issue is the paint/PC whatever, on one of my brembos is gone in one spot like it got eaten away or burnt off
 

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that guy
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Discussion Starter #20
Oh without a doubt, the exterior paint quality on this car is very bad. I have way more little rock chips and etc than I should have on a 2012 car

I just put my Brembos in less than 2 weeks ago, so I can't speak for the quality of the powdercoating on those yet
 
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