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Ex-DSMer
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3,612 Posts
You bought a Gen for MPG? :eek::p

I got better in the ol Talon.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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13' GRAN PREMIO GRY TRACK
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669 Posts
Coming from a 500+ whp Jaguar S Type R that got 12 on the highway and still wanted my heart to beat. The GC track edition fit the bill with 28+MPG average.
Having 50k in my budget it fit perfect.
It's not slouch stock it was 30k so I'm left with 20k for goodies
 

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Discussion Starter #23
nice mafioso, does the track edition seats have airbags in them like the base model? Regardless of safety, i think its an occupational hazard to have airbags in the seats in these cars, wouldnt you agree?
 

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13' GRAN PREMIO GRY TRACK
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669 Posts
I agree and disagree, next gen aka smart airbags are a blessing, I've witnessed the first hand what the seat airbags can do. We were T-boned in a ML-500 Mercedes by a Tahoe doing 45mph we walked the Tahoe driver had to be cut out. I was sore as hell for about 2 weeks but we lived.

Out on a track I can see airbags being a hindrance to rescue efforts. On the street emergency responders are trained to deal with airbags track guys not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
true but id better off just having the B-pillar airbags and dash airbags instead of having the seat bags included.
 

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13' GRAN PREMIO GRY TRACK
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669 Posts
Not sure how to get around the missing airbags if you unplug your seats, it checks for all the airbags on startup otherwise it will throw the airbag light and I think the SRS system goes into fault mode which will deploy the remaining bags at 100 percent force and can cause you a good amount of injury.

Without derailing the thread too bad, next gen srs works by knowing your position in the car and based off calculations by sensors in the seat it knows how much force to deploy an airbag with.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
someone on here or another forum found a way to do it without having the light on when removing the front seats for aftermarket seats. I think they used a resistor or something for the sensors in the floor to consistantly read that they are plugged in all the time.
 

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13' GRAN PREMIO GRY TRACK
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669 Posts
That makes sense, because of the way I drive..... I chose not to mess with the SRS on a DD.
I drive safe but fast, but you can NEVER account for another drivers behavior.
 

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I just did this and replaced it with this.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0166BVK28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

My lug nuts are really hard to get off and require a breaker bar anyways and you can always call road side service.
 

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15,281 Posts

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31 Posts
If you can't get the lugs off with a 2 foot tire iron, then your lugs are being torqued down too much.

Lugs should be torqued to 80 ft/lbs

You risk snapping wheel studs.


I'm talking about with the stock wrench that comes with the car. Of course I could put a tire iron or breaker bar in the car if I wanted but would rather just save the weight. Last time I had a tire blow out 2 tires blew out at once and that is the only time I ever could have used a spare in my life. I have had plenty of nails and screws though.
 

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I'm talking about with the stock wrench that comes with the car. Of course I could put a tire iron or breaker bar in the car if I wanted but would rather just save the weight. Last time I had a tire blow out 2 tires blew out at once and that is the only time I ever could have used a spare in my life. I have had plenty of nails and screws though.
1 foot tire iron -> 80 pounds of force, or torque

2 foot tire iron -> 40 pounds of force


If you're just going to buy one, just get a torque wrench. If you get a cheap one, just make sure that you set it to zero, after using it. The spring in them loses it's calibration, if it stored under tension.
 

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1 foot tire iron -> 80 pounds of force, or torque

2 foot tire iron -> 40 pounds of force


If you're just going to buy one, just get a torque wrench. If you get a cheap one, just make sure that you set it to zero, after using it. The spring in them loses it's calibration, if it stored under tension.
In theory that might be the case but what about if the lug nut is seized to the bolt a little?
 

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In theory that might be the case but what about if the lug nut is seized to the bolt a little?
Thats why 1/2 and 3/8 drive torque wrenches, and most tire irons worth having are usually longer than a foot.

Most wheels studs are rated for over 100 pounds before they stretch. If you torque over that (unless specified) then you are compromising the structure of the wheel studs.
There is corrosion that does sometime require more torque to remove then, compared to putting them on, but that's the nature of using friction to hold metals that can oxidize.

Some say to put anti-seize on the threads, but I advise against that. There are other issues that can come from it, and not putting the stuff one shouldn't be an issues, if you take the wheels off and put them back on at least twice a year.
Which you really should do, to inspect the brakes.
 
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