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Photogineer
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If you can find a way to properly aim, then I think these are worth it. For people who have HIDs in them, if I'm reading the posts correctly, I can just plug my bulbs in from Diode Dynamics w/o the ballasts and everything will work fine? If so that's awesome, gonna do that, but taking the spec-d housing out is such a pain...
I would like to know this as well. Don't you need a ballast n whatnot for the HID bulbs??
 

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Spec-D Headlights Review

I bought the lights from GCTuner. Excellent customer service, super fast delivery. Unfortunately, there are glaring issues with the lights. It's not GCTuner's fault though.

The headlight housing is terrible. The stock harness does not plug into the headlight easily. The pins do not match up properly. You have to use a lot of force and wiggle the harness in. This shows the product lacked QA tests. The fitment of the headlight onto the car is also terrible. While most people may regard the fitment as "fine", I am quite obsessive with perfection (my fault). Unfortunately the gaps are way too big and the product just doesn't fit the car nicely. What's worse is that the headlight sunk into the fender, creating a weird gap. So when you want to remove the lights, it gets stuck behind the fender. You then have to use force to remove it. But if you do so, you are pulling on the fender, bending it completely. You can always bend it back because the fender is made with metal. However you will soon cause metal fatigue and bend it out of shape permanently.

There are good news though. The Diode Dynamics switchback bulbs work great. H1 6000K HID bulbs work great here too. You just plug above bulbs in, and they work just fine. The HID light cutoff/pattern is subpar. It's certainly no HID projector, but I guess it'll do fine. There is MORE glare compared to the OEM halogen housing though.

There are two more issues worth mentioning:

The low beam should have been somewhat aligned. When I got it, the left and the right were significantly off. One was pointing at the ground to the right. The other one pointing at the sky to the left. In order to adjust the headlight, you HAVE to take the entire unit out. You put it back in only to determine that you needed to re-adjust. Repeat times 10 and you'll be annoyed.

The headlight lacked sealant. I see a huge gap between the clear lens and the black housing. Some sections have no sealant at all. After a rain today, I can now confirm condensation issues with the headlight. The condensation took 1 whole night (8 hours) to dissipate. There has been reports that some other members have no fogging issues. Perhaps this indicate the manufacturing process of these lights lacks consistency.

If you can live with the harness problem and the imperfect fitment, this product is for you. If you are super obsessive with perfect fitment, this is not for you. It's up to the individual. You can never expect perfect fitment with these non OEM items. There are glaring quality issues but it's not super terrible. Things like the power harness connector not fitting 100% is fine if you spend some time working at it. Things like headlight aiming can be done as well, just takes a lot of time. Things like sealant can be applied by yourself. It all depends on if you like the design of this thing, and if you are willing to put up some extra effort to make it work for you. Some people put out $400 and expect greatness. It's really a matter of tolerance. I don't have that much of it.

Without further ado, here are some high resolution pictures to show some of the problems. Click the image to enlarge.


Notice the gap between the top of the light, and the hood.


See how the light seats into the fender?


Diode Dynamics switch back works. H1 HID works.


HID light cutoff from 20 feet away.


Left low beam cut off. Notice it's kind of slanted.


Right low beam cut off. Notice it's kind of slanted. I have no clue why.


Color corrected. The switch back is kind of blue. 6000K HID bulb matches the switch backs properly. The LED bar on the bottom however, looks more like 5000k.


The housing does not sit flush with the car. It actually sinks in.


The housing is now under the fender. If you attempt to pull out the headlight to aim them, you will rip the fender and bend it.


8 feet away, both lights cut off. I think the OEM halogen housing has better cutoff than this.


Look closely at the black housing and the clear plastic lens. No sealant here what so ever. In fact, there is a huge gap where I can stick my finger in it.
Bump
 

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I would like to know this as well. Don't you need a ballast n whatnot for the HID bulbs??
Prob meant only that the bulb fits in there? I was hoping no ballast, but doubt that's the case. BTW rageguy, any tips on aiming these? Is it just all trial and error. I'm really hate having to yank these on and off just to adjust them. Mines are still mis-aligned a bit at the moment. I was thinking of dropping the bumper to make it easier to take the housings on and off.
 

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(ノ◕ヮ◕)ノ
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Discussion Starter #24
Prob meant only that the bulb fits in there? I was hoping no ballast, but doubt that's the case. BTW rageguy, any tips on aiming these? Is it just all trial and error. I'm really hate having to yank these on and off just to adjust them. Mines are still mis-aligned a bit at the moment. I was thinking of dropping the bumper to make it easier to take the housings on and off.
You could get creative. Take the headlights out of the car but still plugged in. Put them on a table and tape it down so the headlights do not move. Now you have easy access to the screws.

Or you can just keep taking them on and off your car probably 10 times.
 

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Anyone else buy these and have comments regarding fitment, condensation, aiming? I'm still deciding between buying these and getting my OEMs painted.
 

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IMO fitment isn't that big of an issue if they're already properly aim. The housings do sit a tiny bit deeper, which makes taking them out sometimes impossible unless you drop the bumper. I haven't had any condensation issues yet, but I did notice that my passenger side lights were opening up a bit at the very tip from me constantly taking them in and out to try to fix a cutoff issue. Oh yea my passenger side housing has a cutoff issue. I'm waiting for autocity imports for an rma so that I can get the housing swapped at spec d tuning since I live close to them, but that's another story.

In short, I definitely like how the lights look, as they have really grown on me despite all the issues. I had blacked out oem housings before too, but I don't think I can go back now.
 

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I have none of these issue except that I need to adjust the aiming. Plus, you dont need to take out the light to do this. A flat tip screw driver about 6 inches long will do the trick. There is a YouTube video on this.
 

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Pop the hood and unscrew. Check this link. I think on the 2011's and later cars, there's an extra useless tab thingy connecting the cabling to something (sorry don't remember what) that you have to remove before you can fully remove the housing. It should be obvious to you if you follow the DIY in that link.
Where is the adjustment screw on these lights? Also, did you drill a hole in the housing for the HIDs?
 

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Where is the adjustment screw on these lights? Also, did you drill a hole in the housing for the HIDs?
Adjustment hole is at the top (similar to other headlights). You'll have to look more carefully if you can't find it, but it's there. I didn't have HIDs on mine, but you'll probably have to drill a hole in the cap if you do install them.
 

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wannabe guru
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God those output pics make me cringe....they look cool and all with the LEDs but performance is horrid
 

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NeverNeverLand's Ferryman
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I'm coming extremely late to this, but there are a few things I noticed during a recent re-wire.
This is speaking to those with 2011-2012's with that extra tab.

One: If you have trouble just popping the hood and unscrewing, you can loosen the front bumper as if you are going to take it off, but not completely remove it. If you can get the two tabs above the grill loose, it should provide enough space to pop the headlight out nicely if you support the headlight housing from behind and below and pop it out is if scooping it out. (Hold one hand under the base of the headlight and firmly, but gently pop/slide it out. There should be a slight pop as it loosens and from there it should slide out smoothly).

Two: Be aware of the tabs underneath the headlights that are on the inside of the front bumper, if they were loosened or became loose during the install this can lead to a bit of a sinking appearance that was not previously there. Gentle pressure on the bumper just under the headlights should confirm whether the tabs are completely in. (Note you do not need to jam the bumper, but a little pressure with a thumb should be sufficient to check this, make sure the bumper is cleaned and potentially waxed so to avoid scratching).

I've been running these spec-D's for about three years now, they do occasionally get a bit of condensation, but it does not influence performance. Alignment is not perfect, and may need some work, which can be relatively easily accessed from the rear of the light. Leaning them on the top of housing or on the ram-air can help if you are trying to align and not re-install them several times. If you are testing the lights, however, make sure that you are running the electric and not the engine! (this may seem obvious, but I would rather warn and prevent any burn injuries).
 

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So I've been using these lights for 2 years now and I havent found anything else on this problem which is why im coming back to this old thread. The passenger side DRL is out and in trying to inspect the bulb I found that it doesnt fit through the space in the housing for it, and I dont want to pull on the wires too much and have it get disconnected and stuck inside. Unless im pulling on the wrong wires, my lights have the lowbeam and turn signal sockets on opposite ends of the housing, and im assuming the one for the DRL's is right under the turn signal. Any insights or suggestions?
 

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NeverNeverLand's Ferryman
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So I've been using these lights for 2 years now and I havent found anything else on this problem which is why im coming back to this old thread. The passenger side DRL is out and in trying to inspect the bulb I found that it doesnt fit through the space in the housing for it, and I dont want to pull on the wires too much and have it get disconnected and stuck inside. Unless im pulling on the wrong wires, my lights have the lowbeam and turn signal sockets on opposite ends of the housing, and im assuming the one for the DRL's is right under the turn signal. Any insights or suggestions?
Are you looking at the running light component of the turn signal light or the LED strip? The LED strip to the best that I can tell has an internal ballast, and two connection cables, one green, one white ( I believe), check to make sure these have not become loose (They can be re-attached quite easily if they have (they have little clips that should pop right into place), but you may have to remove the headlight to reach them easier). The internal ballast is within the headlamp and would require taking apart the headlight to reach, I do not suggest this without a more experienced electrician on board (I do not have the experience to fix this part). If it is the running light component of the turn signal, the whole turn signal bulb/socket can twist out from the rear of the headlamp for bulb replacement. Again it is easier to do this with the headlamp out or using the stock as a reference. Once out, check to make sure that the bulb is installed with the contacts aligned in the socket (it should relatively easily twist in and out of the socket, with a little pressure) if you have your stock lamps, they are essentially the same setup, although the bulbs are different.

Hope this helps. I love these lights, and they look great, but I have had QA issues with them, in my first set the running component of the turn signal would not go out when the turn signal was activated, so indicating turns was essentially useless. I returned them at no extra charge and received a second pair that worked. After the housing of one was damaged, I ordered a replacement with the same turn-signal issues, and ended up removing the working wiring from the damaged lamp and grafting it into the new lamp, which worked out. Now both lights are working in full. I suspect that the contacts for the turn signal in my case were reverse wired, but have not been able to test this as of yet.

Take care, if there is another on here with more experience, please jump in, and if I have made any errors in my evaluation please correct me. Thank you!
 

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Are you looking at the running light component of the turn signal light or the LED strip? The LED strip to the best that I can tell has an internal ballast, and two connection cables, one green, one white ( I believe), check to make sure these have not become loose (They can be re-attached quite easily if they have (they have little clips that should pop right into place), but you may have to remove the headlight to reach them easier). The internal ballast is within the headlamp and would require taking apart the headlight to reach, I do not suggest this without a more experienced electrician on board (I do not have the experience to fix this part). If it is the running light component of the turn signal, the whole turn signal bulb/socket can twist out from the rear of the headlamp for bulb replacement. Again it is easier to do this with the headlamp out or using the stock as a reference. Once out, check to make sure that the bulb is installed with the contacts aligned in the socket (it should relatively easily twist in and out of the socket, with a little pressure) if you have your stock lamps, they are essentially the same setup, although the bulbs are different.

Hope this helps. I love these lights, and they look great, but I have had QA issues with them, in my first set the running component of the turn signal would not go out when the turn signal was activated, so indicating turns was essentially useless. I returned them at no extra charge and received a second pair that worked. After the housing of one was damaged, I ordered a replacement with the same turn-signal issues, and ended up removing the working wiring from the damaged lamp and grafting it into the new lamp, which worked out. Now both lights are working in full. I suspect that the contacts for the turn signal in my case were reverse wired, but have not been able to test this as of yet.

Take care, if there is another on here with more experience, please jump in, and if I have made any errors in my evaluation please correct me. Thank you!
Hey so i got these lights not too long ago and the installation video was no help. I want my LED strips to be my DRLs but they aren't already and i don't know how to make them like that. so how am i suppose to set my LED strips as my day time running lights?
 

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NeverNeverLand's Ferryman
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16 Posts
There are likely two ways to get them working as DRLs, the way I know best is to manually set your running lights on, which should turn on your indicator running lights (initially orange on the Spec-D's) and your LED strips (if the lights are working properly, they should be plug-and-play, although I have gotten a few bad batches where they are not). If using the "Automatic" setting, no lights will come on until it is sufficiently dark and then everything will go on, if using the "Headlight" setting all lights (except brights) will go on. At least this is true for the Base model. (You can leave it in any of these settings, as I believe once you lock the car the lights will go off automatically). I'll post pictures of each setting once I get a chance. With the exception of the wiring transfer I did in the above post I have not modified my headlights, so hopefully it should work the same.
The second option would be to re-wire the headlights so that the running lights are ONLY the LED strips, although I would not be able to give good advice on this.

Sorry its only a simple (and possibly already-tried fix)
but hope this helps!
 

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Okay, so I feel the need to rant about these headlights. Do yourself a favor and don't waste your money on them. I bough a set back in the spring of 2013, the set that showed up was supposed to be gloss black, but was matte, the box said gloss so it was packaged wrong from the factory. After a year the protective coating on the outside started peeling. Was pretty minor but still. Then the bulbs in the LED strips started to not work. Eventually I had two bulbs working. I said screw it and bough another set of these last fall. First they show up with the wiring crossed, so the turn signal was bright all the time, and would blink dim. I was able to figure it out and just did some re-wiring myself. Now, less than a year after buying them, the passenger side unit LED strip doesn't light up at all, the turn signal work, but won't stay lit when the signal isn't on. The drivers side DRL light won't work at all, checked the connector last night and it is corroded to the point of one of the little prongs that stick into the cars wiring has rusted away. The connected is in an area where no water gets. I love the look of these lights, but $800 dollars later over 3 years and I'm done with them. Going to switch to spyders once I have the funds.
 

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Hi guys I'm new here. Just bought a 2010 3.8 track. So I recently bought the sped d headlights just like the original thread and they work fine but I had a question for rage guy... did you have an extra harness unplugged when installing? There was a main harness and a tiny one connected to the original headlight. I disconnect both but when installing the spec d only the main one had a connection there was no place to connect the smaller one. All the lights work fine I was just concerned maybe an electrical problem might happen in the future
 
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