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Hi-
Ignorant question ensuing.... If I've already got a 1:1 throttle ratio via BTR custom tune, will this product do anything for me? Multi-mode notwithstanding?
Thanks!
It will work with tune, since it only alters actual gas pedal imput, makes ecu think that you press gass more then you actualy do.

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Discussion Starter #22
When going full throttle to redline and quickly shifting, do you get a slight power cut? I'm experiencing this on my BK1 3.8 6MT. It only happens if I shift really fast though. It's like a split second hesitation in power after shifting really fast. I'm wondering if this product would cure that because it's really annoying.
Haven't experienced this since install, power shifted last night 2-3 3-4 no power cut. Stability off and track off.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hi-
Ignorant question ensuing.... If I've already got a 1:1 throttle ratio via BTR custom tune, will this product do anything for me? Multi-mode notwithstanding?
Thanks!
It will work with tune, since it only alters actual gas pedal imput, makes ecu think that you press gass more then you actualy do.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
.

I'll have to test this theory with my intake off and recording the throttle blade. I think if this was the case full throttle would be achieved much sooner than full pedal. Which is not the case. I can slowly go onto full pedal and hear my intake noise change the more throttle input I give it. It also somehow speeds up the delay between when you press the pedal and when it reacts.
 

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Cone Killa
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When going full throttle to redline and quickly shifting, do you get a slight power cut? I'm experiencing this on my BK1 3.8 6MT. It only happens if I shift really fast though. It's like a split second hesitation in power after shifting really fast. I'm wondering if this product would cure that because it's really annoying.
Haven't experienced this since install, power shifted last night 2-3 3-4 no power cut. Stability off and track off.
Was it something you experienced before the booster?

I can't even chirp my tires into 2nd because my car just cuts power when I shift fast.
 

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I'll have to test this theory with my intake off and recording the throttle blade. I think if this was the case full throttle would be achieved much sooner than full pedal. Which is not the case. I can slowly go onto full pedal and hear my intake noise change the more throttle input I give it. It also somehow speeds up the delay between when you press the pedal and when it reacts.
Look on Torque app it has throttle position %. I find it hard to believe this will eliminate that shift delay that plaques the car. I remember other forums said that module did nothing. I believe it was tested on the 350z by import tuner or someone years back and it didn't do anything. All marketing ploy

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I'll have to test this theory with my intake off and recording the throttle blade. I think if this was the case full throttle would be achieved much sooner than full pedal. Which is not the case. I can slowly go onto full pedal and hear my intake noise change the more throttle input I give it. It also somehow speeds up the delay between when you press the pedal and when it reacts.
I ordered one. Not sure how long it will take to get here but when I install it, I may shoot video of the blade and accelerator pedal to compare.
 

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'13 3.8 Track
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^^ Awesome..looking forward to seeing your video. The one thing stopping me from getting this right now is whether the pedal to blade opening ratio is changed (bad)...or if it's the response time reduction (good) and also the speed of the blade opening (good).

The video on their website clearly shows the blade opening much faster when the guy mashes the pedal on their little test rig. But he never does the test with partial opening.

I'll buy this thing for sure if it's a 1:1 ratio and it speeds up the blade. I don't want to give my car half throttle and get 80% blade opening. That would really suck.

Anyone else have a video showing blade speed & opening compared to throttle position? I think if the Torque app shows it, there would be a delay...so I'd want to see a video of it actually happening.
 

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Power cut is eather ecu limiting torque, or most likely you are hiting a fuel cut - which in Genesis case is power cut - right at soon as you touch redline.

While powershifting, your rpms jump up a bit as you kick the clutch, also rmps tach has delay / not exact.

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This gismo speeds up opening of the plate at lower imput, and the more you press pedal, the less efect it has. After about 3/4 throtle imput, It does not change your gass pedal signal anymore. Look up graphs online.

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It's the same if you would mash pedal quicker and further...move your seat forward from what you have used to, lol


With boosted, gas pedal position at 1/4 throtle achive almost 1/2 throtle butterfly plate position.
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Cone Killa
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Power cut is eather ecu limiting torque, or most likely you are hiting a fuel cut - which in Genesis case is power cut - right at soon as you touch redline.

While powershifting, your rpms jump up a bit as you kick the clutch, also rmps tach has delay / not exact.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I have an SFR Stage 1.5 canned tune which is supposed to significantly reduce the torque management system but it does the same thing as before when I was on the stock tune.

I've tried shifting a little sooner than my 7200 RPM redline but I get the same result if I shift as fast possible. On other cars I've driven you can just take the engine to redline and shift quickly and get tire spin but my Genesis is being held back and it's very frustrating.

I've even been messing with the clutch pedal sensor. With it plugged in and with cruise control on, if I press the clutch, RPMs drop like they should. But if I unplug the sensor and go into cruise control and press the clutch in, the RPMs will rise since the cruise control is on and my car's ability to sense if I'm pushing the clutch in is gone (AKA the ECU thinks I'm not pressing the clutch in since the sensor is unplugged and just giving my engine more gas to maintain speed since I'm in cruise control). In theory, this should help with my power cut issue since with the sensor unplugged the ECU will not limit power due to thinking my clutch hasn't been fully released. With the sensor unplugged, it's always thinking my clutch is released (not pushed in), but I still get the same issue.

If I shift a little slower I don't get the power cut but I still can't chirp my tires.

I'll try shifting a little sooner again and see what happens.

I have a feeling it also might be due to a worn fual mass flywheel.
 

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When going full throttle to redline and quickly shifting, do you get a slight power cut? I'm experiencing this on my BK1 3.8 6MT. It only happens if I shift really fast though. It's like a split second hesitation in power after shifting really fast. I'm wondering if this product would cure that because it's really annoying.
Sure it's not the Traction Control detecting wheel spin?
 

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Cone Killa
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When going full throttle to redline and quickly shifting, do you get a slight power cut? I'm experiencing this on my BK1 3.8 6MT. It only happens if I shift really fast though. It's like a split second hesitation in power after shifting really fast. I'm wondering if this product would cure that because it's really annoying.
Sure it's not the Traction Control detecting wheel spin?
Yeah I turn my traction control off every time I drive my car lol. I can hold a drift no problem. The only issue is when I'm shifting.
 

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'13 3.8 Track
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This gismo speeds up opening of the plate at lower imput, and the more you press pedal, the less efect it has. After about 3/4 throtle imput, It does not change your gass pedal signal anymore. Look up graphs online.

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Well, this is why I want to see a video of the blade with normal speed and with the mod installed. I agree with you that if it's just changing the pedal to blade position ratio then it's no different than smashing the gas pedal. But, my understanding of their promotional video is that it's speeding up the blade motor, which would be significant.

I'm sure you already get this...but if anyone is unclear, I don't want the blade open position to change at all with this mod...just the speed at which it gets from closed (or idle...or 20%, or whatever) to a higher value. Speeding up the blade action would be really good for us...and the 1:1 ratio would be icing on the cake.
 

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Yoda
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The best testimonials involve the videos of the throttle response with the device installed. They are clear that it adds "NO" horsepower, but it does dramatically alter throttle response. Without added HP, this alone "should" add to ones 1/4 mile times. At full throttle-top speed application, there is no perceptible difference. The benefit is in how quickly one reaches this throttle position. I have no real desire to go over 150 mph (though the GC can get there with no problems), but I am highly interested in how "quickly" I can get to this level. My 2016 Ultimate A/T can blow by 100 mph with minimal effort, and run as smooth as glass. I am interested in getting from 0-60, or 60-100 far more than top speed. Passing trucks/cars on two-lane blacktops is totally dependent on how "quickly" one can "pass" whatever is in front of them safely. I have ordered one of these to install on my GC, so I will come back in the coming weeks and give everyone "real-life" experiences of the benefits, or lack thereof, based upon the many miles of highway and byway driving I do every week across Texas (it takes about 12 hours to get from one side of the state to the other, east to west, or north to south) and I've covered most of it during my driving days ;)
 

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Was it something you experienced before the booster?

I can't even chirp my tires into 2nd because my car just cuts power when I shift fast.
I don't know anything about BK1s or M/Ts but... Have you turned off your traction control system to see if that is causing the issue? Your description is a classic BK2 issue with the TCS.
 

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Cone Killa
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Was it something you experienced before the booster?

I can't even chirp my tires into 2nd because my car just cuts power when I shift fast.
I don't know anything about BK1s or M/Ts but... Have you turned off your traction control system to see if that is causing the issue? Your description is a classic BK2 issue with the TCS.
Yeah I have a 2010 so I believe I only have single stage traction control. I press the button once to turn it off and that's it. I know on BK2s you can hold the button down for a few seconds to turn off both TC and stability control but I tried that and it doesn't do anything on my car.

Correct me if I'm wrong!

I can do burnouts, drifts, and donuts all day with the TC off.

I'm really trying to emphasize that this only happens when I shift fast as ****.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
New video is up, it's not just smashing the gas changes things. The pedal response is so much more delayed.

https://youtu.be/Y8ixXNcCP8w

If you're around the mass area and would like to drive a genesis with one lmk.best way I can explain is 2nd gear mash the gas at 40 with it off car builds up power and goes fast and nice. With it on mash the gas and you will spin and the ass end wants to come out.

It won't work on a 350z at all because the Vq doesn't use throttle bodies.

As to the shift cutout I did use to experience it on my 2-3 **** all times when playing on the highway. I've yet to feel it.

I've driven over 400 miles on it so far and am loving it, passing power is greatly improved. How fast the throttle blade opens is greatly improved.

its something you have to drive to feel it. We can go back and forth on how it works but until you experience it you won't know what you're missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #39

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Cone Killa
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Man, I appreciate you sharing all of this information and your experience.

The brief power cut I get going from 2nd to 3rd really fast is so infuriating that I might just shell out the cash to get onr of these...

If only someone with a BK1 3.8 could confirm it for me...

Can you chirp your tires into 3rd?
 
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