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Sucks to get beat by me
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fam. I need advice on my stereo setup. I got a custom box made today and when I got it back the box wouldnt go past the factory sub. The installer told me that when he installs the system he is going to take out the factory sub and the box will fit securely. when I asked him if he was going to put the sub back in he said no because the sub would interfer with the sound quality of the new sub that was going in!? Is that right? I asked him if he could make the box lower to make it past the factory sub and he said no because of the specs on the new sub. Has anyone else had this problem? Im up for suggestions.
 

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Breast Examiner
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Take it Out

The box size is calculated according to the speaker used.
He can't change that now.
You need to take the OEM SUB out of the rear panel and cover that whole
area with sound deadening material anyway to prevent rattling.
 

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The whistles go WOO! WOO!
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829 Posts
Pull out the stock sub, it sucks. That's why you're putting a new sub in!

You might even be able to sell the stock sub to a member with the base package :D
 

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Sucks to get beat by me
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@ HotLZGT That is exactly what he said I just wanted to hear it from a forum member. Sometimes I think that the installers are just doing what is easier for them, but I will go ahead and get it done.



@ RandomDestructn Youre right bro and once I get the setup installed I will pm about the factory sub if you want it.
 

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What exactly are you getting done? If you dont mind how much is it gonna total?
 

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The whistles go WOO! WOO!
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@ RandomDestructn Youre right bro and once I get the setup installed I will pm about the factory sub if you want it.
Heh no thanks man. Mine has the stock sub, and I'm planning on dropping a 10W7 in once I save up some coin :D

But it'd be a good deal for someone with the base system that once a little more low end.
 

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Sucks to get beat by me
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What exactly are you getting done? If you dont mind how much is it gonna total?
Im just putting in a 10" subwoofer, amp, and capacitor. Nothing too spectacular because I dont to weigh the car down. The custom box was $200 built to spec, the wiring harness for the stock head unit is $50, and the amp kit is $50, I think they are going to hook me up on the install cost because Im doing some name dropping for them at the EAF car show here in Cali.
 

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AMB~1YR
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3,073 Posts
Running two different types of subs (size and/or brand) is a bad idea. They can be subject to phase cancellation and sound worse then with just one sub.
 

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What I can tell you about the issue is that you would benefit by having the OEM sub removed. I had the same thing in my 06 Azera. I installed 2 10" subs in the trunk and left the OEM sub in place. When you really start cranking your music, the factory sub will distort and make your music sound like crap. Once I removed my OEM sub...it was SMOOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTHHHHHHHHH!!!

If you're keeping the factory head unit, then making adjustments to get the bass to sound like it's part of the rest of the system could take some time. One tip, don't crank the bass setting on your head unit. It'll keep the speakers from distorting when you turn the music up...let the sub(s) create the bass. The speakers are designed for mid-bass, mids & highs.

Also, if you're set up is running less than 500 watts rms, a capacitor is really a waste of money unless you just want it to look cool. Just an FYI.
 

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A capacitor is pretty much a waste of money any way you slice it.
Yeah, the best way to get the results you need is to upgrade the "Big Three" 1) alternator positive to battery positive
2) battery negative to chassis
3) engine ground to chassis.

Do that and you shouldn't have any problems at all.
 

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AMB~1YR
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3,073 Posts
What I can tell you about the issue is that you would benefit by having the OEM sub removed. I had the same thing in my 06 Azera. I installed 2 10" subs in the trunk and left the OEM sub in place. When you really start cranking your music, the factory sub will distort and make your music sound like crap. Once I removed my OEM sub...it was SMOOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTHHHHHHHHH!!!

If you're keeping the factory head unit, then making adjustments to get the bass to sound like it's part of the rest of the system could take some time. One tip, don't crank the bass setting on your head unit. It'll keep the speakers from distorting when you turn the music up...let the sub(s) create the bass. The speakers are designed for mid-bass, mids & highs..
This is good advice.
 

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AMB~1YR
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3,073 Posts
Also, if you're set up is running less than 500 watts rms, a capacitor is really a waste of money unless you just want it to look cool. Just an FYI.
I hope you mean vice versa. A cap can be beneficial when you are running a low wattage and have enough "left over" current from your charging system. It can give your amp a more stable voltage which can extend the life of it and improve it's efficiency. When you don't have enough "left over" current then a cap becomes a draw on your charging system instead of a help.
 

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I hope you mean vice versa. A cap can be beneficial when you are running a low wattage and have enough "left over" current from your charging system. It can give your amp a more stable voltage which can extend the life of it and improve it's efficiency. When you don't have enough "left over" current then a cap becomes a draw on your charging system instead of a help.
Actually...with most of today's cars...the average amp pushing 500 watts rms or below can be very stable without a cap. It truly is a waste of money in that situation. That is why you really see them being used with high powered systems. I've never installed a lower powered system with a cap and never will...there's just no need for it.

Please understand...this is my opinion and preference based on my years of installing. There will always be an argument on this matter because there are those that believe a cap is needed regardless. It's a matter of opinion and preference.
 

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The whistles go WOO! WOO!
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When you don't have enough "left over" current then a cap becomes a draw on your charging system instead of a help.
It doesn't add a draw (other than whatever energy is dissipated through internal resistance -- negligible), but you're right that a cap won't help if you're trying to pull 300 amps through 8 ga wire to stock battery & amp.
 

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Any pics of anybodies systems or aftermarket stereo or speakers??
 
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