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I have bought some infinity door speakers and they have a max peak of 180 watts and once they’re turned up all the way they start clipping so I am going to buy a 200 watt amp and replace the stock one but the problem is I can’t find the stock amp anywhere. Does anyone know where I could find the stock amp for my door speakers so I could replace them?
 

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Passenger side rear seat trim panel I believe . You should be able to search threads top left use the google one . Also find Snoopy's book shelf and down load the manual for your car
 

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I have bought some infinity door speakers and they have a max peak of 180 watts and once they’re turned up all the way they start clipping so I am going to buy a 200 watt amp and replace the stock one but the problem is I can’t find the stock amp anywhere. Does anyone know where I could find the stock amp for my door speakers so I could replace them?
Did you ever replace the stock amp..??
 

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Nope .
 

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i found the stock amp... the problem is, it does NOT have standard high or low level inputs... It gets a digital signal from the head unit via 2 wires and the amp electronically converts that back to analog and creates 7 channels ... 2 front, 2 rear, 1 center, 2 for the dvc sub... The problem is the bass just is not enough.. its a TEASE... The mid's and high's are very impressive but the bass on the other hand....
I was going to swap out the amp until i realized there are no analog inputs ...!!! The other option is to swap out the sub for a better quality sub but im not sure how much more bass i can get with the same input wattage...I would like to know how much power this sucker is putting out but hyundai nor jbl knows anything...
 

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The LOC I used was a direct fit and had sub rca outputs. It would work to add an amp for the sub assuming it fits your year. Mines a 2010.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SLC4/Scosche-SLC4-Line-Output-Converter.html?tp=3486&omnews=10291916
The problem with the LOC is that on the 2014 model the only way to attach the LOC is on the output of the oem amp before it gets to the speaker... The oem head unit in my model does not have the regular hi level or low level speaker outputs to feed an amp.. It sends a digital signal via 2 wires to the amp and the amp electronically converts & separates that into 7 analog channels... two fronts, two rears, center channel and 2 for the DVC sub..
I don't think that LOC will accept a ~high wattage input from an amp to send to another amp to be amplified again..
believe me when i found that amp i was about to rip it out and put in a new pioneer there until i found out that it did not have regular inputs... At that point i hit a brick wall...
 

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I replaced my amp with one from a 2014 Sonata. Since the OEM amp piggy backs the tweeters off the front doors, I ran new wires from the Sonata amp to the tweeters and then took the positive com the right and negative from the left tweeters and used that for the center speaker. It is absolutely night and day better than the stock setup. My next venture is the amp from the Azera and see how that works.


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I replaced my amp with one from a 2014 Sonata. Since the OEM amp piggy backs the tweeters off the front doors, I ran new wires from the Sonata amp to the tweeters and then took the positive com the right and negative from the left tweeters and used that for the center speaker. It is absolutely night and day better than the stock setup. My next venture is the amp from the Azera and see how that works.
I am still trying to figure out how much power this oem jbl amp puts out.... I am running into brick walls and NOBODY seems to know anything about it... Hyundai don't know crap... Jbl don't know crap... Nobody knows anything about this amp nor sub... Just that its there...
So what im going to do is disconnect the 2 channels from the sub.. route them into a Pioneer amp... and amplify that signal AGAIN and route them back into the SUB and hope it pumps out more bass than what the crap jbl amp is doing. I measured the AC voltage coming from both sub channels and at 90% volume, bass at 10 on the head unit, 50 hertz signal, i got 10.5 Volts.. Guesstimating about 25W rms... If that is correct, thats a JOKE... the bass is pretty descent but there is a LOT of rattle ... And based from what i can feel and isolate, its coming from where the sub mounts to that plastic ring that attaches to the metal rear deck.. i have to push down HARD on that plastic cover that sits over the sub and basically put some force on something below to stop the rattle, then at that point the bass sounds better.. BUT i still think i can send more power to that sub to make it hit a bit harder...
 

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well thanks for that picture but im a bit confused... The internal amp shows 43x4 max which probably is about 20x4 rms if lucky... But my HU does not have the internal amp... Its def an external amp that i have found and it does NOT have normal speaker level inputs which leads me to the external amp on the picture... It shows 3.2V rms... really..?? Why show watts for the internal unit and V for the external unit..?? So 3.2V rms.... When i was testing my amp's output at the sub leads, i got a max of 10V at 90% volume using an old school bass CD hitting a 50hz signal.. Doing a google search i found a site that said V squared divided by the ohms of the speaker... So 10V x 10V is 100V divided by 4 ohms gives 25 watts.. I can believe it considering the physical size of this amp and its pushing 7 channels... So the sub is getting ~50W (25w per vc). Doubtful its already maxed out but this sucker has a pretty descent size magnet so i can assume it can handle more power, im pretty sure hyundai designed this system so that the speakers are under powered... I personally would never under power a sub, give it what it recommends or a little more so that its fed properly... Just KNOW your sub, KNOW your limits... But that takes a responsible person... anyways... what are your thoughts about my calculations..??
 

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I think if you cannot find a digital to analog converter for the amp of your choice you don't have many options other than to replace the head, amp and signal wiring.
Well i went back to the sub and did another test ... the last test was with NO sub just DVM to wire harness at sub and got ~11V ac.. This time i left the sub plugged in and put my DVM and clamp meter on the wires.. Put on that bass cd at 50 hz, bass level at 10 in the HU, Volume at 30, got ~8.3V ac and 4.3 amps.. So ~35w rms at that level which seems kinda right for that size amp to feed 7 channels..
Option 1 is to get a 2nd dedicated amp for the oem sub and tap off the 2 channels that feed the sub - now as inputs to the new amp... and hope goes well. If not option 2 is to disconnect the oem sub but leave it physically there and get a single 10 inch sub in a box with the new amp and again, use the oem 2 channels to the sub and use those as inputs to the new amp...
The bass is there now.. its heard but NOT felt at all... Un-like my other 2 cars which the bass is FELT nicely :)
 

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So an Update:
I went ahead and purchased a Pioneer 2 channel amp.. disconnected the 2 channels from the oem 8 inch sub and routed those into the Pioneer amp (speaker level inputs) and then the outputs of the amp back to the sub...
This amp puts out 150W rms x 2, assuming at 100% output but i wanted to make sure the sub was getting some descent power that i didn't have to crank it up to get some bass... All i have to say is OMFG... there is a HUGE difference in bass from this sub with the new amp than with the oem amp was giving it. This sub literally WOKE up and was hitting pretty damn hard.. Enough to satisfy my everyday needs, sure its not as powerful as my other 2 vehicles, but the bass in this car is alive and i can't be happier... Well... i CAN put in a single 10 or 12 inch in a box and get tons more boom but why waste time & $$ when this single 8 inch is doing pretty well, and might i say, i would never believe all this bass from a free-air 8 inch sub....
 

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What Pioneer 2c amp did you use exactly? Want to do this to my gen since my stock amp is giving out and making my life living hell.
 

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What Pioneer 2c amp did you use exactly? Want to do this to my gen since my stock amp is giving out and making my life living hell.
i believe its the GM-A5702 ...
 

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Thanks bud. Don't happen to have any pictures oh how you did the install do you? I'm new to audio so I kind of have no idea about the wiring and whats want but I'm open to try it if it'll benefit me and really bring out the sub.
 

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So an Update:
I went ahead and purchased a Pioneer 2 channel amp.. disconnected the 2 channels from the oem 8 inch sub and routed those into the Pioneer amp (speaker level inputs) and then the outputs of the amp back to the sub...
This amp puts out 150W rms x 2, assuming at 100% output but i wanted to make sure the sub was getting some descent power that i didn't have to crank it up to get some bass... All i have to say is OMFG... there is a HUGE difference in bass from this sub with the new amp than with the oem amp was giving it. This sub literally WOKE up and was hitting pretty damn hard.. Enough to satisfy my everyday needs, sure its not as powerful as my other 2 vehicles, but the bass in this car is alive and i can't be happier... Well... i CAN put in a single 10 or 12 inch in a box and get tons more boom but why waste time & $$ when this single 8 inch is doing pretty well, and might i say, i would never believe all this bass from a free-air 8 inch sub....
Hopefully you still check this forum from time to time
I just purchased the same amp you used. Where did you mount that amp? It's kinda large and Iam struggling with a good place to mount it.
Thanks

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