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So I knew nothing about electricity or circuits until 2 weeks ago which helped me through this. Even though I did not notice anything was wrong I hope nothing is affected in the long run. Basically I used the idea to fuse tap the LEDs from the back up lamp but since that only works for track(maybe r-spec) manual I found another fuse that worked on ACC or ignition.

Some of the materials except a wire stripper and 1/4" male disconnects all the material was bought from advanced auto parts (didnt use the spades connector)


Since all the fuses have a circuit running through them on the driver side fuse, I check the passenger side fuse box and used the Sensor1 10amp fuse which only gets power during ACC and ignition
Outer view


The 10amp fuse closest to the huge bundle of wire


I connected 2-10 amp fuses and crimped a wire to the fuse tap an attached it to the fuse


Ran the wire to the other fuse box


GROUND WIRE -Crimped the round connector on to another wire and attached it to a bolt and added electric tape to keep it there


Attached the female disconnects to the other end of the wires and attached it to the DRL relay. Also attached a male and female disconnect to two other wires and attached the females to the other two prongs on the relay and connected the males to the "plugs" where the relay use to be( the two parallel "plugs" that go front to back). The ground wire( wire running from the bolt) is the wire not labeled.



After that closed the fuse boxes and tried to hide the wiring...was not the neatest BUTTTT the the proof of concept is there




AND there u go when i turn my car onto ACC or on the DRLs come on also

 

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Just wanted to let everyone know that I did this set up but added two wires about 4' long. I poked a hole in the rubber dust cover the hood release cable goes through the fire wall and passed both wires through with a lubed coat hanger taped to the wires. The rubber grommet is just above the dead pedal. Under the hood I connected one wire to a ground lug and the other wire goes to the relay terminal you were previously connecting to ground. The switch is now in the ground path.
On the lower dash I drilled a hole for a switch I already had. I crimped two female terminals to the wires under the dash and connected to the switch. You can tell I messed up during the drilling and scratched the dash but I'll buff that out later.

Now I can turn on the LED's any time I want as long as the ignition is on.

 

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So I just did this and it works perfect! Thank you so much for this write up.

I think I may need to redo my ground connection, the relay is getting pretty warm. This normal? Or should I look at the ground connection?
 

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Subbed. Going to give this a try. If it works out well, i'll create an installation guide video to add to my youtube channel.
 

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Just fyi, there's another thread on here (too lazy to search at the moment) where all you have to do is add a single wire between the DRL power and the LED's. Very easy to do using a couple of t-tap connectors. Did mine about a year and a half ago and haven't had an issue since.
 

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Just fyi, there's another thread on here (too lazy to search at the moment) where all you have to do is add a single wire between the DRL power and the LED's. Very easy to do using a couple of t-tap connectors. Did mine about a year and a half ago and haven't had an issue since.
Ya I came across it earlier today. Problem is the guy who did the mod would not take any pics of what he did, nor explain if he had to take the bumper off. This post seems way easier IMO as no bumper or tapping had to take place.

Plus the other method was only to power on when turning on your parking lights. This mod is for ignition power, which is what I want.

I think this is what you were referring to?
http://www.gencoupe.com/electrical-wiring-2013-up/101363-hot-wire-headlight-drl.html
 

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I made an install video of the OP's steps (not looking to steal thunder, but I just wanted to help)

 
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