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Hi guys
It looks like my turbo oil return line has broken and rubber hose is leaking.
My mechanic insist on buying a new OEM assembly part# 28245-2C600 which costs 50-100 usd.
And i can not understand why i should pay 50$ for peace of rubber hose and two clamp.

Just wonder if it's possible to use oil resistant enforced rubber hose.
Or there is an aftermarket one.

Thanks in advance, for any valuable help.
 

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I wish they didn't use a cross flow coolant design for the turbo core.

Makes getting the coolant line closest to the engine a PITA to get undone.

getting everything else undone is pretty much gravy. (I don't remove the turbine housing. I just undo the V-band and remove that way)

When I have a chance to find the dumb coolant hard lines that attach to the block off my spare engine, I'm going to redesign it with maintenance in mind.
 

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I wish they didn't use a cross flow coolant design for the turbo core.

Makes getting the coolant line closest to the engine a PITA to get undone.

getting everything else undone is pretty much gravy. (I don't remove the turbine housing. I just undo the V-band and remove that way)

When I have a chance to find the dumb coolant hard lines that attach to the block off my spare engine, I'm going to redesign it with maintenance in mind.
That's one of the reason I took my improvised oil filter oil heater/exchanger off, the complicated and messy connections with hose clamps and tees. Need to get a BK2 setup with hoses and pipes.
 

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That's one of the reason I took my improvised oil filter oil heater/exchanger off, the complicated and messy connections with hose clamps and tees. Need to get a BK2 setup with hoses and pipes.
Can you show a pic how does your setup look like ?
I'm actually curious on this improvised oil filter oil heater/exchanger setup
 

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They are soft silicon hoses too. Bad choice of material from Hyundai.
From what I recall from messing with it last night is that the one circles is silicone, but the one on the foreground is rubber.

Silicone is easier to get off a form than rubber when manufacturing, especially with the radii that it has.

... also doesn't become a concern if oil gets on it. If it was rubber, oil go on it, and started leaking it would be a PITA to replace.
Rubber coolant lines aren't normally oil rated.
 

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BTW the bolts on the right the ones at 90 degree angle to the block (hold water pump assembly)
service manual doesn't say what torque are they exactly just the famous 7 mark so .. 20nm??
anything 10mm, rule of thumb is to torque them to 15 to 25 ft/lbs depending on stud/bolt construction.
that is suppose to have a gasket, so it's not really a matter of what torque, but more so of even torque.

I would torque to 15 on the first one, then torque the rest to 20, then go back to the first one and make sure it's then torqued to 20

IMO it's not really necessary to have a 1/4 drive torque wrench, just use a 1/4 drive short handled ratchet and drive down by hand with that. You're not likely to torque past 25 pounds.

BTW those bolts holding the water pump block to the engine block are for the latter frame. Just need something that would thread to give a visual or hose locations.
 

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anything 10mm, rule of thumb is to torque them to 15 to 25 ft/lbs depending on stud/bolt construction.
that is suppose to have a gasket, so it's not really a matter of what torque, but more so of even torque.

I would torque to 15 on the first one, then torque the rest to 20, then go back to the first one and make sure it's then torqued to 20

IMO it's not really necessary to have a 1/4 drive torque wrench, just use a 1/4 drive short handled ratchet and drive down by hand with that. You're not likely to torque past 25 pounds.

BTW those bolts holding the water pump block to the engine block are for the latter frame. Just need something that would thread to give a visual or hose locations.
Thanks, i was changing the gasket that is underneath there (2 channels In / Out from block). Torqued pretty much as you descried in stages to 20 Nm (15ft/lbs) just was not sure if this is right torque valuer
 

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I was thinking of putting in some brass threaded barbed fitting on the back of the water block... but then remembered copper + aluminum + water = bad
 

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I was thinking of putting in some brass threaded barbed fitting on the back of the water block... but then remembered copper + aluminum + water = bad
When i had my oil cooler/filter adapter installed I drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of the water pump for the return flow. Used a brass pipe barb. When I took it out two years later it was most difficult to remove.

A picture of the Ford oil cooler filter adapter I used. Threaded right in. It's too thick to use the OE filter as it hangs too low.




And don't use brass fittings in this type of installation with the pressure gauge. Broke three times before I found a steel adapter.

 

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copper reacts with aluminum. main reason why aluminum block engine cars have aluminum radiators.

If it's in the oil system, using brass/copper is generally fine. It's when there is water involved that it's bad
 
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