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Hey, with 160 to spend on a gift card and like 300 coming in on a paycheck thats unaccounted for im trying to add a sub to my gc... some that I looked into are below

Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SWX251 10" Flat Subwoofer with Enclosure 800 Watts: Electronics

Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW3001S2 12-Inch Shallow Subwoofer with 1500 Watts Max Power: Electronics

Amazon.com: Pioneer TSSW251 Shallow Mount 10 Inch 800 Watts Subwoofer: Electronics

Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW301 12-Inch 1000W Maximum 250W Nominal Shallow-Mount Subwoofer: Electronics


I have literally 0 knowledge on the subject so any and all (intelligent) response will be appreciated...Im not set on pioneer (like I said i have no knowledge) so if there is another good, but not $$$ brand I'd be willing to listen.

Im trying to avoid the whole "well I have this so get this" type argument unless you really know what you're talking about... also, I know that the type of music plays in so my most listened to genres would be hip-hop, electronic (techno, dubstep, drum and bass), and rap occasionally..


I look forward to what you guys have to offer.

Thanks
 

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AMB~1YR
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Well first of all I don't want to tell you what to get but I will tell you what not to get. Don't get a shallow mount sub. You have loads of space in the trunk. Pioneer is not the greatest either. I would go Alpine Type R for the price. One 12 or two 10's. More than likely two 10's for that range of music.
 

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Well from the background information you have presented, I would tell you 460 bucks is not enough to put even an "ok" system in your car. If you want a decent system that is going to last you for a while and sound great the entire time stop being cheap. ( As most people say you drive at least a 24K car:rofl:) Me personally I am quite fond of JL audio equipment. I only used a single JL W3 10 in a ported custom box to fit perfectly inside my trunk. The GC trunk space is very nice you do not need 2 10s to make great sound. For your amp I used the JL XD700 5 channel amp. You want to send some power to your door speakers as well. It really helps so your music is not drowned by bass. Just have that rear sub disconnected. All together plus installation it would run you roughly about 800 bucks, but that set-up would last you the life of the car. Hope it helps.
 

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AMB~1YR
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Well from the background information you have presented, I would tell you 460 bucks is not enough to put even an "ok" system in your car. If you want a decent system that is going to last you for a while and sound great the entire time stop being cheap. ( As most people say you drive at least a 24K car:rofl:) Me personally I am quite fond of JL audio equipment. I only used a single JL W3 10 in a ported custom box to fit perfectly inside my trunk. The GC trunk space is very nice you do not need 2 10s to make great sound. For your amp I used the JL XD700 5 channel amp. You want to send some power to your door speakers as well. It really helps so your music is not drowned by bass. Just have that rear sub disconnected. All together plus installation it would run you roughly about 800 bucks, but that set-up would last you the life of the car. Hope it helps.
Amplifying the music speakers is benificial but one step at a time. I disagree with the cheapness factor. You can easily get a decent amp and 10" sub in a box for 460 bucks.
 

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FUNCTION OVER FORM
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Well from the background information you have presented, I would tell you 460 bucks is not enough to put even an "ok" system in your car. If you want a decent system that is going to last you for a while and sound great the entire time stop being cheap. ( As most people say you drive at least a 24K car:rofl:) Me personally I am quite fond of JL audio equipment. I only used a single JL W3 10 in a ported custom box to fit perfectly inside my trunk. The GC trunk space is very nice you do not need 2 10s to make great sound. For your amp I used the JL XD700 5 channel amp. You want to send some power to your door speakers as well. It really helps so your music is not drowned by bass. Just have that rear sub disconnected. All together plus installation it would run you roughly about 800 bucks, but that set-up would last you the life of the car. Hope it helps.
I too like JL W3 10" subs having owned them before, I know that they are on par with what I'm running now, Punch P3 10" subs. But this type of equipment & the amps needed to push it is not cheap.
 

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Amplifying the music speakers is benificial but one step at a time. I disagree with the cheapness factor. You can easily get a decent amp and 10" sub in a box for 460 bucks.
Please show me a set-up @460 bucks that doesn't sound like crap. Keep in mind you need the enclosure for the sub and the amp wiring kit plus the installation( if you can not do it yourself). As for one step at a time........if your on a budget why not save up to do it right the first time? Just a thought.

I too like JL W3 10" subs having owned them before, I know that they are on par with what I'm running now, Punch P3 10" subs. But this type of equipment & the amps needed to push it is not cheap.
Glad to see someone agrees
 

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Never understood the hype with the Alpine stuff. They haven't done much of anything good with speakers since they had ScanSpeak OEM their F#1 Status line.
 

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AMB~1YR
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Please show me a set-up @460 bucks that doesn't sound like crap. Keep in mind you need the enclosure for the sub and the amp wiring kit plus the installation( if you can not do it yourself). As for one step at a time........if your on a budget why not save up to do it right the first time? Just a thought.
This is a system I had before I upgraded.
I paid 200 for the amp, 300 for both subs, 100 for the box and 100 for wiring. Installed myself. That's 700 bucks + shipping for a system that will shake your brain and sounds incredibly clean. When people listened to it they couldn't believe it was under a grand. You don't need to rob a bank to have a good system. So seeing what I did I don't think it is far off to buy a 10" sub, box with a small class D amp and wiring for 460.
eg.
Alpine SWR-1043D 10" Type-R Car Subwoofer/Sub (SWR1043D)
Sonic Sub Boxes 1SV10-BLACK - 10" Ported/Vented Subwoofer Box | Sub Enclosure - Sonic Electronix
Kicker ZX500.1 (10ZX500.1) Class D Mono Amplifier Car Amp
Tsunami AMP04BL-RCA 4 Gauge Complete Amplifier Install Wiring Kit
This adds up to 415 + shipping. That's pretty damn close and what I selected is far from crap.

As for one step at a time I agree with you kinda that you should save up and buy it all at once but some people like to start on one thing and build from there.

Let me ask you this. Can you find any other Gen Coupe that is louder and cleaner than mine with a lower cost to bang ratio? or even just louder. This is what I have now and the subs, box, amp and wires come to about 1400 + shipping.
In closing it is all in how the equipment is installed/applied to how well it will shine.
I have been a car audio enthusiast in and around the industry for 19 years and had everything from expensive to budget and let me tell you expensive is overrated big time!
 

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AMB~1YR
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Never understood the hype with the Alpine stuff. They haven't done much of anything good with speakers since they had ScanSpeak OEM their F#1 Status line.
For the money the Type R sub can't be beat. Their Headunits are top of the line too. Lets put it this way. Compare Alpine to Kicker. HA! Kicker is crap compared to Alpine and it's more money.
 

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Ontario Genesis Club
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Meh they're all pretty good. unless you're willing to spend upwards to 3-800 for a higher end sub, you'll get what you pay for.
 

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If you want to keep ur trunk alpine is coming out with an 8" type R in April. It does not need a box built around it. I have the track edition so i plan on taking my stock sub out and just replacing with the type r and gunna wire and mount amp to back of seat or hide it in the spare wheel space. cant go wrong with a type R
 

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u cant just throw in any 8" type r, it has to be a free air subwoofer otherwise you'll burn it out...NOT a pretty sight (emotions of burning out a subwoofer include :squint::confused::eek::woah::ugh::wtc::wtc::mad::mad2: in that order...i just reread ur post nvm
 

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AMB~1YR
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It does not need a box built around it.
u cant just throw in any 8" type r, it has to be a free air subwoofer otherwise you'll burn it out...NOT a pretty sight (emotions of burning out a subwoofer include :squint::confused::eek::woah::ugh::wtc::wtc::mad::mad2: in that order...i just reread ur post nvm
Evidence of this free air Alpine?
 

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For the money the Type R sub can't be beat. Their Headunits are top of the line too. Lets put it this way. Compare Alpine to Kicker. HA! Kicker is crap compared to Alpine and it's more money.
I'm WELL familiar with Alpine products. Been in the sound quality competition scene since 1997 and am currently running an Alpine head unit and signal processing in my car. I should have been more specific and stated that I was referring to their speaker offerings.

Type R is a decent driver, especially at that price point. I'd still submit you could spend literally a few bucks more, grab that Dayton Titanic, and be blown away. ;-)
 

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u cant just throw in any 8" type r, it has to be a free air subwoofer otherwise you'll burn it out...NOT a pretty sight (emotions of burning out a subwoofer include :squint::confused::eek::woah::ugh::wtc::wtc::mad::mad2: in that order...i just reread ur post nvm
Not necessarily true, sir. Some sealed box (low Q) woofers, like the Oz Power Matrix I'm currently running, excel in Infinite Baffle. Power handling, however, is reduced quite a bit so you'll need to be careful there.

I used to be a sealed box guy until a good friend of mine and world renown installer/SQ competitor convinced me to listen to some IB configurations. The low-end extension is phenomenal, and honestly can't be beat. If you're really looking to make that bottom octave shine, IB is the way to go if you can swing it.
 
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