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2010 3.8 Track. 204,xxx miles now. Original engine, transmission, and clutch.

Since everyone loves to hate on slightly longer oil change intervals, Walmart's SuperTech brand oil, and plain old Fram filters, I decided to do a test and get empirical evidence to see how well all of those factors together would do in my 200,000+ mile BK1 3.8. Judging by the results, I must be doing something right.

My vehicle sees tons of usage at relatively high speeds in the Texas heat, with a WOT pull to the redline daily. This sample also saw extended periods of high speed driving through the deserts of New Mexico and Colorado, with a trip to the top of Pike's Peak, and extended periods of idling as I slept in the back overnight on a road trip more than once. Apparently it is time for me to clean my air filter again (oops) due to the rising silicon content - I guess it has been about 21,000 miles now that I think of it. This may have slightly elevated the wear metals but nothing seems out of line so I will just clean it and drive on.

Top picture is the most recent oil analysis result with the SuperTech Synthetic 5w20 and a Fram filter. I have labelled the rest on the bottom for easier referencing and comparison. Universal averages are based upon 6,400 miles of usage in the 3.8 engine. The bottom picture is an oil analysis I had done over 100,000 miles ago using plain old Mobil 1 5w20 and an OEM filter - I wanted to directly compare the SuperTech synthetic 5w20 to the Mobil 1 5w20 to show it doesn't have to be name brand to perform just as well, and I got the mileage of the samples as close as I could while being feasible for my schedule.
 

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I still go with the Mahle OX-351,same as whats in the Hyundai box, oil filter which I found a bunch of online for 3 to 5 dollars, some in Mahle boxes and some in Beck Arnly boxes.
 

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I still go with the Mahle OX-351,same as whats in the Hyundai box, oil filter which I found a bunch of online for 3 to 5 dollars, some in Mahle boxes and some in Beck Arnly boxes.
The only reason I went with the Fram was just because of the overall dislike for them and wanted to show they can still perform as well as anything else.
 

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The only reason I went with the Fram was just because of the overall dislike for them and wanted to show they can still perform as well as anything else.
Since you have the cartriage type, then you should be able to tell which filter has quality construction (not talking about filter element when talking about construction)

The inner barrel on the one I posted had a seam going straight. The one to look for are the ones with the spiral seam.
The actual element... that's debatable.

I change mine every 3k miles (wider ambient temp swings). As long as you change the oil/filters regularly, going a few times with longer than ideal intervals shouldn't do much.... It's different when you start adding significant power to it.
All that aside. Above all else, always make sure to check your oil level.
 

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I am surprised you aren't getting much hate on this here... I remember posting a simple question on FB gencoupe group about the difference between purelator filter, which I've been using for over 50k miles and the oem ones... I got so much hate from all the marketing victims to the point that I just simply had to quit the group, because I couldn't stop my phone from going off from all the notifications from all the Facebook mechanics on there.

Glad it works for you. Despite all the hate I received, I am still using Walmart oil with purelator filters lol

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

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Since you have the cartriage type, then you should be able to tell which filter has quality construction (not talking about filter element when talking about construction)

The inner barrel on the one I posted had a seam going straight. The one to look for are the ones with the spiral seam.
The actual element... that's debatable.

I change mine every 3k miles (wider ambient temp swings). As long as you change the oil/filters regularly, going a few times with longer than ideal intervals shouldn't do much.... It's different when you start adding significant power to it.
All that aside. Above all else, always make sure to check your oil level.
I've been doing extended drain intervals for the past 5 years and 100,000+ miles on my Genesis. It is more or less stock though. I don't consider a CAI, tune, and catback exhaust major power adders.

I am surprised you aren't getting much hate on this here... I remember posting a simple question on FB gencoupe group about the difference between purelator filter, which I've been using for over 50k miles and the oem ones... I got so much hate from all the marketing victims to the point that I just simply had to quit the group, because I couldn't stop my phone from going off from all the notifications from all the Facebook mechanics on there.

Glad it works for you. Despite all the hate I received, I am still using Walmart oil with purelator filters lol

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
You can turn off notifications for a particular post on your phone. Also, I posted it on Facebook on my own post where I hit 200,000 miles on my 3.8 with the original engine, transmission, and clutch. So, it was hard for people to say "you're destroying your car" when I have the highest mileage 3.8 I've yet found. I like getting actual data to support my arguments, not "that's bad oil and you're an idiot because I said so" type logic you see online.
 

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My 2009 Santa Fe has only seen SuperTech 5w20 along with SuperTech oil filters for over 150k miles and I am the original owner. I have no clue why people are b!thcing at those who don't do what they do.
 

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I use the Fram XG 9688 on both my Hyundais. Go double oil filter changes too. 10k for the Gen Coupe, 15k for the Accent for the filter.
Any reason for not using the XG3593A slightly longer filter ?
 

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Thanks Lethal! This thread is super encouraging, as my 2010 3.8 engine is at 69k (Chassis at 103k), with plans to track it.
I was gonna suggest upgrading the filter to anything but fram.
But it seems these guys who do their homework and know way more than me, including Red Rasberry think their fine. Surprising, I always heard and read that Fram was cheap and lower quality.
 

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I am surprised you aren't getting much hate on this here... I remember posting a simple question on FB gencoupe group about the difference between purelator filter, which I've been using for over 50k miles and the oem ones... I got so much hate from all the marketing victims to the point that I just simply had to quit the group, because I couldn't stop my phone from going off from all the notifications from all the Facebook mechanics on there.

Glad it works for you. Despite all the hate I received, I am still using Walmart oil with purelator filters lol

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

Dudes,....all Walmart house brand and Sams chouce oils are made by Valvoline. Its good stuff.
 

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The only reason I went with the Fram was just because of the overall dislike for them and wanted to show they can still perform as well as anything else.
Yes, if I couldn't find the Mahle filters so cheap online I would feel comfortable using Fram. I dont think a well known company would manufacture and sell a sub par filter and risk ruining their name.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes, if I couldn't find the Mahle filters so cheap online I would feel comfortable using Fram. I dont think a well known company would manufacture and sell a sub par filter and risk ruining their name.
Fram has had its issues in the past, the same goes with Purolator. If I remember right, they were both having instances of filter media tearing. The Frams were jokingly referred to as the orange can of death for a while.

As far as I can tell though using the oil analysis results from my engine over several years with multiple different types of filters, they all seem to filter the same amount for how much they are used when you look at the mileage and insolubles value in the reports. Now that may or may not mean they have a similar filtering capability, but the wear metals all seem to be in check as well. The OEM filters work a-ok. Same with K&N. Purolator. I think that's all I've tried so far.
 

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I think if you're religiously changing your oil, as most of us do. You can probably get away with the cheaper filters.
That said, the Fram XG synthetic has much more quality materials (metal backing, silicone plug, etc) than the conventional Fram filter (cardboard backing, rubber plug), so no orange death for those who use synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think if you're religiously changing your oil, as most of us do. You can probably get away with the cheaper filters.
That said, the Fram XG synthetic has much more quality materials (metal backing, silicone plug, etc) than the conventional Fram filter (cardboard backing, rubber plug), so no orange death for those who use synthetic.
The 3.8 is a cartridge filter. So it doesn't have any anti-drainback valves like a can filter would. Also, the Fram cartridge filter didn't have cardboard in it, it was a plastic internal cage and plastic end caps like many other filters. Come to think of it, even the OEM filter is really just like a paper or felt on the end caps so even Fram has one upped them on this.
 
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