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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2013 3.8 Grand Touring 75,500 miles. I"m the original owner.

On the inside edge of both front tires, 1/2 inch width of the tread was cut down to expose the steel belt. The rest of the tread on the tires is still well above the wear indicators.

I took it in to have some window tint redone and the dealer said that both front struts failed and the right side stabilizer link failed resulting in the suspension cutting the tires (found when they did their normal routine inspection each time a car comes in).

I had no idea the struts failed and the car drove completely normal. I just had a major PM service completed 30 days ago, no problems with the tires were found. After looking at the tires, I had exceeded borrowed time for a blow out of both tires.

How does failed struts cause the suspension to cut into the tire so dramatically without any indication to the driver?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, stock setup, stock Potenza tires from the dealer; tires are 3 years old, air pressure was always maintained at the correct psi and the car had no alignment problems. The car has been only serviced at the same dealer since new; never missed a PM service.
 

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2013 3.8 Grand Touring 75,500 miles. I"m the original owner.

On the inside edge of both front tires, 1/2 inch width of the tread was cut down to expose the steel belt. The rest of the tread on the tires is still well above the wear indicators.

I took it in to have some window tint redone and the dealer said that both front struts failed and the right side stabilizer link failed resulting in the suspension cutting the tires (found when they did their normal routine inspection each time a car comes in).

I had no idea the struts failed and the car drove completely normal. I just had a major PM service completed 30 days ago, no problems with the tires were found. After looking at the tires, I had exceeded borrowed time for a blow out of both tires.

How does failed struts cause the suspension to cut into the tire so dramatically without any indication to the driver?
When the struts fail (not sure about this, but will explain later) the wheel angle ends up in negative camber, also front angle goes toe-in (think pigeon toed)

Now, I don't think it's the struts, because the struts just dampens and controls the rate of compression and expansion of the springs. The springs could be what failed, but then you would definitely feel it when driving on bumpy roads.
I could see the dealer saying that it's the struts, because they were probably referring to the whole strut assembly, which includes the springs.
 

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75k is beyond the normal life expectancy of struts, but probably not the cause. If the sway bar link failed and broke, that could easily make contact with the tire, although you probably would have heard something.

Did anyone put the car on the ground and check suspension movements lock-to-lock?
 

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Probably ware due to bad alignment (caused by suspension and boiljoints) but road is what wore out edges, tire should be far ways from suspension with stock set up.

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Probably ware due to bad alignment (caused by suspension and boiljoints) but road is what wore out edges, tire should be far ways from suspension with stock set up.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
What he said .
 

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Definitely alignment is the primary culprit here, bad components maybe but always start by assuming you're out of spec if you're seeing aggressive or uneven wear. Toe especially goes out really easily on these cars so you need to get aligned yearly even with the stock suspension if you want the front tires to last anywhere near the mileage they're rated for.
 

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Definitely alignment is the primary culprit here, bad components maybe but always start by assuming you're out of spec if you're seeing aggressive or uneven wear. Toe especially goes out really easily on these cars so you need to get aligned yearly even with the stock suspension if you want the front tires to last anywhere near the mileage they're rated for.
I've never done an alignment on mine, I bought mine new in 09, and drive it all year round .
But... I've never had to mess with the suspension. I changed out my tires 2 years ago (8 years), but really should have changed them out 2 years prior.

on a macpherson suspension layout, the geometry of the front suspension changes when it's compressed.
Depending on if the where the tie rods connect to the spindle (in front, or behind), when compressed, it will change the toe angle. either will make the camber negative when compressed.

toe-in or pigeon toe'd, when compressed will make the car more dart'y.
toes-out will have the opposite affect.
Both will wear out the treads faster. negative camber will wear the inner treads more than the rest of the tread. positive, outer tread.
toe-in or toe-out, but 0 camber will wear the treads evenly, but at a faster rate.
Center tread, means the tires are over inflated.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got the car to the Hyundai dealer where I bought it at so the extended warranty could be honored. They said the struts were fine. Stabilizer links on both sides were shot and were replaced. And it needed the wheel alignment. Considering it was only driven for 30 days after a major PM service and the tires were fine presents an issue that when the alignment goes bad, it goes bad real quick.

I put on BFGoodrich G-Force Comp-2 A/S instead of the factory Bridgestone Potenza RE92A. We'll see how these tires perform over the long haul as I never did like the RE92A.
 

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I put on BFGoodrich G-Force Comp-2 A/S instead of the factory Bridgestone Potenza RE92A. We'll see how these tires perform over the long haul as I never did like the RE92A.

The tires are a good choice. I ran a set 30+K miles before changing to bigger wheels, and there was good life left. Good grip dry and very good wet. Don’t expect them to stand up very long under track duty, they won’t.
 

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I've never done an alignment on mine, I bought mine new in 09, and drive it all year round .
But... I've never had to mess with the suspension. I changed out my tires 2 years ago (8 years), but really should have changed them out 2 years prior.
You are a crazy outlier then, I've seen countless users on here with prematurely ended front tires due to toe going out, myself included.

The tires are a good choice. I ran a set 30+K miles before changing to bigger wheels, and there was good life left. Good grip dry and very good wet. Don’t expect them to stand up very long under track duty, they won’t.
Also agree, I had a set on my car and still have the fronts for a little while longer at least, crazy good dry handling for an A/S and great wet handling.
 

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You are a crazy outlier then, I've seen countless users on here with prematurely ended front tires due to toe going out, myself included.
How many of those effect have messed with their suspensions prior to having an issue?

Every time I change out my wheels (twice a year. winter/summer wheels) I check all rubber suspension components, and check to see if anything is loose.
Only thing I changed, suspension-wise was the rear sway bar back in 2013, front wheel bearings last spring, and brake pads and rotors.

I have a majority of the rubber suspension bits, sitting on a shelf, and some durometer 80 urethane ones that I casted from those, next to them, to swap in when I need to (car is 10 years old)
but haven't had to yet.
 

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Just be careful in the snow on all seasons. Below certain temperatures the car wont feel as confident to drive
IMO all seasons are only good for clear street normal traffic driving.

First thing I bought for the car, when I got it, were a set of steel rims and a set of winter studded tires.
 
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