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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on swapping my old oem engine mounts for new oem 60a poly filled mounts. Any tips or tricks I should know about filling or installing them? I've tried looking through the install threads but none of them show the 13+ 3.8. At least that I could find anyway.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, so I got the mounts filled today, pretty straightforward. Does anyone have any experience in installing them on the car? Looks to me like I'll need to drop the steering rack at least a little to get the bottom bolts out and as far as the top bolts go I'm not sure what the best approach would be. Alternatively has anyone had a shop replace them? If so, how much did it cost?
 

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I installed on the 2.0t. I installed polyurethane engine mounts and trans mounts definitely i big difference. I believe i did 80a as the strength cause i wanted something stiffer for more HP. I recommend using duck tape to keep the urethane in the engine mounts

For the Trans i had to redone the first time due to it leaking three the duck tape and not fully drying for i had to order another can luckily it was only 15$ for a can so 30$ total cause i messed up.
But the secont time around i used clay on the outside of the trans mount wrapped with the duck tape and came out perfect.

Its a great DIY and a great benefit for the gencoupe
 

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Putting them in.
Engine:
unbolt the bolt/nut from the top of the mounts.
Put to block of wood under the oil pan and jack it up, or use an engine hoist to lift the engine a few inches.
Unbolt the mounts from the K-member, then reverse steps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys, I already have the Megan transmission mount so these should work nicely with that. My main concerns now are 1. Do I have to undo the power steering rack? If not then what would you recommend using to undo the nuts and 2. Once I have the mounts undone do I pull them up through the top or do they fit out through the bottom?

I also started a DIY for this little project since I hadn't come across any good info for doing this on a 13+ 3.8
http://www.gencoupe.com/engine-drivetrain/675586-diy-2013-3-8-oem-poly-engine-motor-mounts.html
 

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At the time i was looking into purchasing my motor mounts and trans mount from Megan Racing they both were on backorder for a months with out a release so it left me with not to many options.

But if im not mistaken i think the took the mounts from the top and i did have to loosen the power sterring rqck but then again i have a 2.0 not sure if its the same on a 3.8
 

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Thanks guys, I already have the Megan transmission mount so these should work nicely with that. My main concerns now are 1. Do I have to undo the power steering rack? If not then what would you recommend using to undo the nuts and 2. Once I have the mounts undone do I pull them up through the top or do they fit out through the bottom?

I also started a DIY for this little project since I hadn't come across any good info for doing this on a 13+ 3.8
http://www.gencoupe.com/engine-drivetrain/675586-diy-2013-3-8-oem-poly-engine-motor-mounts.html
I've have the engine in and out of the car a few times, but haven't had to mess with the k-member.... yet
When I was in there, I don't recall seeing some weird setup, as far as the PS rack is concerned.

Might be better to just get under the car and look
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's not necessarily weird, just the power steering runs right under the openings for the nuts on the bottom of the mounts, kinda tight to access but maybe I can get in there with a crows foot or something. Worse case I have to unbolt the power steering rack a little. That shouldn't be too bad right? I mean there's nothing special about unbolting the PS rack that I should know about? Obviously I'm not completely removing it, just letting it droop a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Install is done and the DIY is updated, the mounts needed to come out the bottom as far as I saw. Power steering rack and subframe also needed to be loosened to allow for clearance to remove the mounts and install the new ones.
 

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Have done the same on mine 4 years ago. Definitely PITA.
Now i am Wonder is syringe and some tubing to reach mount would work

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have done the same on mine 4 years ago. Definitely PITA.
Now i am Wonder is syringe and some tubing to reach mount would work

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You probably could if you could get that rubber top piece off and used a polyurethane that wouldn't leak out the holes. Otherwise you would have to somehow get in there and tape them closed.

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If I was actually wanting to go through this process, I would just weld new brackets and make some more "conventional" motor mounts.

The OEM design lends to more movement in all directions. I understand why they made it that way, but I still don't like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've thought about making supplemental mounts to try and limit motion especially left to right. I just haven't gotten around to drawing anything up to machine.

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I've thought about making supplemental mounts to try and limit motion especially left to right. I just haven't gotten around to drawing anything up to machine.

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You should try the engine lease mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You should try the engine lease mod.
I did that already, that improvement is what lead me to do filled engine mounts. I was also thinking another leash from the passengers side as well to see how that helps

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I did that already, that improvement is what lead me to do filled engine mounts. I was also thinking another leash from the passengers side as well to see how that helps

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I've thought about one for the front on my 2L too. Has a bolt to use for a mount almost directly across from the engine lift eye.
 
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